3 on the tree loooose
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3 on the tree loooose
1971 f 250 with three speed on column seems very loose. This is my first column shift but the lever will move about 4-6 inches (at the end) when engaged in gear. It shifts fine does not give me any problems just seems like it should be tighter. Is it loose in the column or down under at the trans linkage? Thanks
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Over time the bridge begins to crack, eventually breaks off. Now you aren't going anywhere until the puppy is replaced, as the shift lever is no longer connected to the tube.
D5TZ-7228-B (replaced D3TZ-7228-B & C0DZ-7228-B) .. 3 M/T Shift Collar / Obsolete ~ 100's available NOS
Applications: 1961/77 F100/250 // 1960/65 Falcon/Comet / 1966/77 Bronco.
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Yea I assumed the prob was in the column, I was checking the linkages and everything seemed ok. So how much "fun" are we talking. Is there a "book o knowledge" for this or just go for it with a camera , patience, and luck. I have an origanal set of shop manuals but sometimes they are not the best for repair, but will be lookin them over soon. New bowl is on the way.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
Well, it's fun because you get to set in the seat to do it and don't get very greasy. Much more fun than say, changing the rear main seal.
The manual is a good idea. And a long skinny magnet to retrieve one or two parts that might fall down the tube.
The manual is a good idea. And a long skinny magnet to retrieve one or two parts that might fall down the tube.
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Update, the bowl was not broken but the pin hole was very worn, along with the slots and grooves showing wear AND the tab on the shift tube has broken the spot welds so it was no longer attached to the tube. The whole in the tab was well worn also. So the question is do I purchase a new shift tube, which has very minimal wear, or repair the tab and reattach it to the shift tube.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
I'm not sure you can reinstall the tab and it still fit in it's groove. There are two choices. Which one you need?
Without P/S..C5TZ7212C,replaced by D3TZ7212C and D5TZ7228B,replaced by E3TZ7212F.
With P/S......C9TZ7212D,replaced by D3TZ7212B and D5TZ7228B,replaced by E3TZ7228G.
Without P/S..C5TZ7212C,replaced by D3TZ7212C and D5TZ7228B,replaced by E3TZ7212F.
With P/S......C9TZ7212D,replaced by D3TZ7212B and D5TZ7228B,replaced by E3TZ7228G.
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It has manual steering. The tube diameter is very close to 1" pipe, the thickness of the tab is also very close to 1" pipe thickness. I can remake this "tab" with the "dimples" on the underside, drill two holes where the spot welds were and weld into the holes attaching it to the tube. I like these kind of challenges to fab my own stuff. Buying the part is not out of the question but it's fun to try it myself. What site do you recommend for the tube. The original shop manuals I have say just pull out the tube but that sounds to easy there has to be more to it. It is all apart under the steering wheel but the tube will not just pull out.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
I have never changed one myself but I might know the problem. Since the bottom of the shift tube goes in to the shift levers at the bottom of the column I would assume the tranny would have to be in "neutral". Thereby aligning up the two shift levers and the tab at the bottom of the tube.
E3TZ7212F:
Tom Hillier Ford in CA...209-838-3535.
Wolfe Ford in ND.........701-538-7337.
Kahoka Motors in MO....660-727-2181.
There is also one on www.rearcounter.com. It doesn't say who it is just that it's in New York. You can go there and "request pricing".
E3TZ7212F:
Tom Hillier Ford in CA...209-838-3535.
Wolfe Ford in ND.........701-538-7337.
Kahoka Motors in MO....660-727-2181.
There is also one on www.rearcounter.com. It doesn't say who it is just that it's in New York. You can go there and "request pricing".
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Update, I made the "tab" and was able to reattach it to the tube. With that and a new shift bowl things are much tighter. I was able to make the "dimples" on the under side of the tab slightly longer. It was a little tricky welding while still in the column but its done. Even if the welds break the longer dimples and the tight fit of the new hub and tab it will not move out of place. Thanks for the help and part numbers, will keep them on file.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Update, I made the "tab" and was able to reattach it to the tube. With that and a new shift bowl things are much tighter. I was able to make the "dimples" on the under side of the tab slightly longer. It was a little tricky welding while still in the column but its done. Even if the welds break the longer dimples and the tight fit of the new hub and tab it will not move out of place. Thanks for the help and part numbers, will keep them on file.
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