When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1980 F250 carbureted will not start back up after driving.Have to let truck sit for 2 to 3 hours before it will start again.Carb getting fuel and have spark at coil.Was running ok and started pulling out on to street and truck just stop running.Had to let cool before starting back up. Have the Duraspark 2 electrical system.Does not have the TFI-VI system. Need help on this one. Thank you.
Not to question your veracity, but how do you know the carb has gas? Do you see a stream(s) from the accelerator pump? If not, there may be gas to the carb but not in the carb.
As for the spark, was it blue or white? If not, you may have a weak spark due to a component failure, and that isn't unusual on these. And a weak spark may not let the engine run.
Yes, if you have spark and fuel the only thing I see it could be is a flooded engine. Hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it. If it starts to hit keep it to the floor till it fires up and then let off of it a little bit so you won't over-rev the engine.
Yes. And, for garycd, that process uses what is known as the "choke unloader", and that is engaged at full throttle. Obviously that's not something you want to do for very long.
I think it is electrical.When this first started I was driving and it died on me as I was driving.Had to let it cool for 2 hours before it would start again.Going to test coil,ballast resistor and distributor stator.Any thing else I can test? 1980 F250 351m stock. Thanks.
Checked voltage and checked 7v and then checked ohms on ballast resistor and came up with 0.1ohms not the 0.8 to 1.6 needed. Would the ballast resistor make it not run when it gets hot? Thanks.
Checked voltage and checked 7v and then checked ohms on ballast resistor and came up with 0.1ohms not the 0.8 to 1.6 needed. Would the ballast resistor make it not run when it gets hot? Thanks.
How are you checking this resistor? It's made into the harness wiring. If it wasn't working you would have gotten 12v at the coil, not 7v.
It doesn't really matter what the ballast resistance is if you get ~7v at the coil. It was the voltage the engineers were targeting and the resistance was just a way of getting there.
Book did say if 7v skip ballast test,but I did the test anyway. Unpluged the two wires from module and test red wire from harness to + wire to coil and came up with the reading of 0.1 ohms. Going to test again with wire unpluged from coil.Did not test with wire off coil first time. Thanks.
By "no ohms" do you mean a dead short or totally open? It should be showing some resistance and I do think that .8 is about right - though that is from memory.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.