Ok, so maybe not quick AND easy, but trying cheaply is probably the prime need. I teach high school auto shop and we may be picking up a 1949 Ford sedan (I know, not a truck, but I have faith in the guys on this forum more than others). I don't know if there will be a carburetor on it. The old timer who owns it doesn't communicate well. Otherwise, it is all there.

The simple question is- if we want to stick with the original motor/tranny, what is the best route to take? We'd love a bit more power and reliability. I've looked at some intakes to convert to a small 4 barrel carb. The original carb was a model 94 I believe. What do you guys think? We'd just like to get the car driving again. Nothing too fancy.

 

I've got a 94 model EBV from a 55 truck that should bolt on. It should be at least rebuildable, or a teaching tool if youd be interested. $10 plus shipping would get it to your door. Someone will chime in if it wont fit. It should, as I believe ford used different variants of the 94 from the late 30s to 54/55 v8s.

 

Well, that's a start!

 

The 1955 era carburetor isn't quite correct for a flathead but would work if you have no other affordable options. Ford added a spark control valve to the carburetor in 1954.

I would not plan on adding power to the original car. Get it running decently and drive it. With stock gearing a good running flathead has all the power you need. A decent task list for me on an old unknown flathead is:

1. Drain oil and check oil for contamination.
2. Pull intake and check valley for a host of sins (rats nest, sludge like you wouldn't believe, etc).
3. If everything looks good, clean and gap the points and plugs.
4. Check belts and hoses. If they will work, fill the radiator and check for leaks. Slow leaks at the water pump shafts may seal up if you get the engine running. Also, check the transmission lube level.
5. Connect the carburetor to an external gas can, set higher than the carb to gravity feed.
6. Try to start the engine.
7. If the engine shows promise give the engine a complete tune up (new points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, you-assemble-them wires, and rebuild the carburetor). Change belts and hoses if needed.
8. Start working on the brakes. Rebuild as necessary to have good brakes.
9. Start working on the fuel pump, fuel line, and fuel tank. Rebuild or replace as necessary to have a good fuel supply.

 

I think unless it's in unusually good shape, you can't skip any of the steps 38Coupe listed. I wouldn't risk driving it even a short distance until you have thoroughly check out all the systems.

Pulling the intake will tell you a lot. If the engine hasn't been vatted and rebuilt since the advent of unleaded gas and detergent oils, it may be so clogged with sludge that running it will only do more damage than good.

 

Also the rearend for oil level. If I remember correctly the transmission and rear end takes 90 weight gear oil.
Elmo

 

These are great cars but they do have their problem areas. The most common is the rocker area. Look for frame rust through also depending on what are of the country the car is from. On a high mileage car the rear spring hangers could be wallowed out.
These car will fly with the stock flathead, as said no extra power needed. As a matter of fact, someone told me his first car, a 49 with a six was the hottest car on the road. He claimed it ate 332 Interceptors and 409 Chevrolets for lunch.
First things first, make sure the engine is free. Expect the gas tank to be toast unless it very very recently was a driver . Oil the cylinders before turning over. Expect it to be 6 volt, negative hot. Drain all fluids, look for water in the crank case.
These engines can be so simple that they are very complex for a modern mechanic to grasp. As far as oil it depends, if it ran recently and looked clean modern detergent oil may be fine. If it looks gooey and gunked up, you may want to use a simple non detergent oil like SAE 30.

P.S. Do the research buy the shop manual.

 

Yeah, I think those are mostly the steps I was going to go through. This has sat so long, I don't see it driving any time quickly. But getting a carburetor that works will be one of the first steps no matter what.

As far as power goes, I don't think we're going to do any major power adding to the engine, but if we could turn the stock 100 into 125-150, that'd be nice. That will be down the road though. As far as a school project goes, we don't have the money to do a real restoration. Nor do I think it'd be worth it since the car doesn't have a really high value. But getting it driving again, and maybe a quickie paint job would be cool.

 

Depending which Y-block carb it is, the throttle plates may be too big to clear the bores in the manifold. They could hang up, not a good thing... It will also be jetted way rich. If you're going to get it running and expect to use it, best to get the right carb. Decent ones are on eBay and elsewhere for < $40.

 

Something to note, I am fully contemplating just tearing the whole engine down from the get go. Or at least a bunch of it. Get it cleaned up. I assume that the brakes and everything are going to be in horrible condition. It will be a long project I'm sure, but if it keeps kids busy...

 

Good idea teaching them on the older stuff. It's easier to understand since they're so mechanical, there isn't all the electronics and computer stuff getting in the way and making it more complicated. I've been learning much better on my own project, and can apply it to the newer stuff, but the opposite direction didn't work, for me at least.

 

The same basic principles apply whether a lawnmower or an F150, an understanding of the basics always makes one a better mechanic. I have a 1950 Motors auto repair manual ("keep 'em rollin'") and every time I look something up I learn something or look at it a new way.