Hi All,
Seeking some help on my bitsa 1965 F100.
It has a three speed trans code plate: RAN E 1
K018383
It is matched to a 300ci,4.9lt, I6.
According to my 1965 shop manual it (Warner T89) is a medium duty trans that never came in a 1965 F100.
This comes as no surprise to me.
The truck had different vins when I bought it and I can see the trans frame mount has been cleaned and replaced.
Regardless, third gear is still a straight through or 1 to 1 ratio.

The rear axle housing has no tag.
In lieu of dropping the third member I'm going to measure the ratio by jacking one wheel up and counting drive shaft rotation to wheel rotation. (hopefully not a posi rear).

My problem is the engine is wound out at 60mph.

The base rear axle ratio is supposed to be 3.70. to 1.

While I'm counting the rear ratio, does anyone have a suggestion for a better highway rear ratio than what I'm guessing I have?

I have run into a guy who has a 3.0 ratio from a 66 F100 but that seems a little low to me. I don't really need 100mph.

Thanks in advance.

I'll followup after I get the rear ratio that I have.
There's nothing at all wrong with the rear, no howl etc.
I just hardly can't get past 60mph.

Twin Me Beam

 

Warranty Plate located on the left door face below the latch. The TRANS & AXLE codes are stamped on the 2nd line.

RAN E1 = Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncromesh trans. Probably replaced the original Ford 3.03 .. as this trans was originally installed in a 1967 F100 w/a 240 I-6 and a 114" wheelbase.

1965 F100 300 I-6, 3.03 TRANS code is A .. w/a 114" wheelbase, it's ID TRANS tag code would have been HEG-N or HEG-T

Warner T-89 3 speed (has a non syncro [crash] 1st gear) is TRANS code D .. was an option in 1965 F100/250 with 4WD

 

Totally confused on this end.
Makes no diff what came with the truck from radiator to end of drive shaft.
It has all been replaced.
A bitsa is bits from here and there.
The drivers side door with the plate was removed by the california highway patrol because it was from a 1964 from the san jose ford plant rather than the 1965 frame Vin from the same plant. But that is neither here nor there.

Raining like hell here now in central cal--"Praise the lord" I will check my rain gauge and the rear ratio after the rain.

Regardless of the bitsa parts.
The trans label tag is what it is : RAN E 1, KO18383
It's a three speed trans and I can hear the synchronizers wind up when I shift.


My question remains.
What is the best rear axle ratio for highway speeds and economy for a trans with a RAN E 1 E
K018383
Code.

The rear axle seems to be, from all outward appearances: stock/no drain plug/no code label. I'll check the rear ratio when I can get my wife to count the drive shaft rotations. I'm 72 years and she is still helpful. She counts the shaft rotations and I count the wheel rotations.

Twin Me Beam

 

I wonder if Number Dummy gave you maybe too much information. In keeping with your observation that much of your truck has been altered from original, the RAN E 1 three on the tree manual transmission you are asking about was originally installed in a 1967 F100 with a 240 cubic inch I-6 engine, and is synchromesh on all three gears as you guessed. Third gear is a 1 to 1 ratio, as you probably know, so the only way to get quieter operation at highway speed is thru a rear axle ratio change, which you also know. 3.70 gears that you think you may have are frequently found with the I-6 and 3 speed manual. So are 3.89 and 3.50. These are common ratios for Ford 9 inch non-limited slip axles. If you have 3.70s it doesn't seem like 3.50s would be worth changing to. 3.25 and 3.00 are two other 9 inch axle ratios that are common, but then are you losing too much power? How do you know your engine is a 300 and not a 240? They look the same. If you do have a 300 then it will be happier with 3.25 or 3.00 gears than a 240 would be. What does the VIN located on the top of your passenger side frame rail say? That will help us tell you what engine was there originally - even if you think it was changed out. Hope you and your wife are successful in figuring out your axle ratio. Good luck!

 

Thanks to you guys,

I checked the stroke of this motor at 4" . (down the sparkplug hole)
The vin on the passenger side frame rail top side indicates 240.
It was all changed out at some time.
Probably a 1971 300 six and a Ran E-1 trans/K 18383 as identified on the trans. tag plate.

Stolen in 1992 and 1994 and recovered both times and ended up in Oakland .Calif impound which doesn't have anything to do with
any thing and the gear ratios/ less the rear axle.

Presently legally registered in 2014 as a 1965 twin I Beam.
Drivers door has a new DMV ID plate with the frame vin.

Any suggestions for a highway rear end ratio??

Thanks in advance

 

For a Ford truck 9 inch non-limited slip rear end, your highway gear choices are 3.25 and 3.00. (There may also be a car gear set in the 2.80 range.) You seem concerned that 3.00 is too high. However you know someone who has a set to sell. 3.25s were the default ratio for the F100 automatic trans V8 trucks unless something else was ordered. Some things to consider: is it flat or hilly where you are driving? If flat, then 3.00 might be OK. If hilly, 3.25s would be better. Do you want the truck to be able to do truck work or is it just a highway cruiser? If truck work, then 3.25s. If only a highway cruiser then 3.00s might be OK. For what it's worth, the '66 version of the 300 engine was rated at 170 gross hp @ 3600 rpms, 283 foot pounds @ 2400 rpms, with a compression ratio of 8.4:1. How healthy do you think your motor is? If healthy, 3.00 might be OK. If tired, probably need 3.25s. Not much help, but some things to think about. Good luck!

 

Sorry if you had to repeat the same information in this thread. It seemed clear to me, but your second iteration might be a little easier to read.


.

 

What's confusing about the fact that the RAN E1 is not a Warner T-89?

 

Like Bill says: it's a ford trans not warner.
Most all of these three speed trans including the ford 3.03 have a 1 to 1 third gear ratio.

I was confused by what Chilton said about an E code trans. tag.
They call it a Warner on pg. 14 of the 1965-86 ford pickup manual.
Interesting to find what that trans actually came out of.
The frame vin is F10JR614212.
This is what the chp and dmv used to re-title it correctly.
I have hagerty insurance on it and they restrict use so they reduce their risks.
No golf clubs or groceries in the back.
No destination trips.
I guess that means circle track is ok-ha-ha.
No hauling at all and no towing nuttin.
If I drive to hot august nights in Reno, my wife's complete wardrobe goes on the roof??
Even the hagerty lady agreed this was very ridiculous.
I guess she has lots of shoes and purses too.

I rolled the truck around in the garage and measured a 3.70 rear axle ratio.
Thanks for the great suggestions for the axle ratio.
I have an up hill approach to the garage and there are some hills around so a 3.25 sounds ideal.

Does anyone know if an electric over drive unit to replace the trans extension was ever offered for these 1967 ford 3.03 Ran E 1 transmissions?
Even if its longer I can shorten the drive line.

When the air cooled fordamatic trans blew up in my 1955 272 yblock convertible, I bought a used ford 3 speed with OD from a V8 flathead that fit right on, even used a flathead bell housing and clutch.
Those were the good old days.
Interchangability to the max.

This 1965/67 F100 truck is a completely different beast.
The different options offered for the gear train is amazing.

Thanks again.

This is the good side.Next comes the 65 ebay aluminum grill. It has a painted 66 on it.



Twin Me Beam

 

TRANS code E = Warner T-87 H/D 3 speed, standard equipment in F350's, optional in F250's.

TRANS code D = Warner T-89.

TRANS code C = 1966/79 Ford type 3.03.

TRANS code B = 1965/71 F100 Warner T-85N 3 speed w/Overdrive.

TRANS code A = 1963/65 Ford type 3.03.

TRANS code A = 1957/62 Warner T-86 3 speed.

 

Welcome to my world... I've been fighting that one too. You're just not gonna get a gear that's both great on the highway and around-town. I have a 3-speed with a 3:25 rear gear and it seems to be a good compromise.

The add-on overdrives would let you keep the 3-speed, but are expensive. I believe your 6-cylinder bellhousing is the same as the small-block V8 and it might be easier/cheaper to convert to a 5 speed with overdrive.