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Considering a rear end swap for my 50 f-1. KNow someone who will weld the spring perches on for me, but how exactly do I set the pinion angle. Would it be something probably better left to an experiencerd shop or could I do this in my garage? Thanks in advance.
Depending on the rearend you get you might not have to move the spring perches. The 9" I used in my '48 came from a 65 pickup. I had to move the shock mounts but the spring perch location was perfect. I believe any 9" from 57-72 will be the same.
You can find what you need by using a magnetic angle indicator. Place it on the output shaft housing of the tranny to determine what the opposite but equal angle on the pinion should be.
Normally the tranny tilts down a few degrees and the pinion tilts up an equal amount. You can measure the pinion by using the mag angle indicator on the end of the yoke.
I corrected the pinion angle by purchasing Caster shims at NAPA. 5* shims got me close enough. 2 years and 30K miles later it's doing fine.
If you're determined to move them, I'd cut them off. Set the axle under the truck with pinion angle where you want it and mark where the spring perches sit.
Generally speaking, you don't want the driveshaft at 0 degress angle to the pinion yoke. However, you don't want an extreme angle either. Up to 3 degrees any direction is OK
jniolon,
i have just finished installing a 86 chrysler torsion bar in my
51...the rotors are 5 bolt 4.5 lug pattern....my rearend in the
truck is the original that is 5 bolt 5.5 lug pattern..
do you know what rearends will go under this that have the
4.5 pattern....
appreciate any help
tks,jeepcat44@charter.net
1. "71-73 Mustang (comes in 8" and 9") perfect width and gives 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern. You will have to move the spring perches though."
2. "89 to current Ford Exploder 8.8 rear end is the right width, gives 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern and if you get the right year (97 and up, I think) you get rear disc brakes as well."
I replaced my rear end and attempted to use the method where you ensure the tranny is parallel to the ground then do the sane for the rear end, needless to say it didn't work. I put the other rear end back in put it on jack stands measured the distance from the bottom of the drive shaft cup, put the other rear end back in rotate the rear end until I got the same measurements on the drive shaft, remeasured it for being centered, then tac welded the spring perches, drop the rear end and welded the perches good. No vibration and it runs smooth.
Jaye
If your truck is completely stripped - i.e. no gas tank, no box, no rear fenders, etc. I would not be welding the perches until you have all that stuff remounted or have determined the weight of all those items and placed ballast on the rear of the frame to duplicate them.