As some of you know, over the weekend I picked up 2 300 i6 4.9 engines.

One I plan to use for my truck, and the other will be parted out if it has anything someone needs. Both are mostly complete.

First, the one I plan to use looks to be in great shape (Block cast #D5TE-6015-AA) and was removed to be replaced with a 460. To each his own I suppose. I was not able to hear it run but it was pulled the day before I got, or so I was told. It turns over cleanly and smoothly with no scraping sounds of one that has been sitting for a long time.
It has the same carb that I currently have on the engine in the truck. This is great since I needed a new one. It has a reman sticker on it. It is a Carter made for Ford #7128s. It has an electric choke and my current has manual. How does the electric hook up work? I have the 3G alternator upgrade if that matters.
The distributor still has points and is an Autolite number looks like C8TF 12127 U / 0L9. The 12127 is cast and the rest is stamped. I am looking to put a pertronix in it to replace the points and condenser. Should I do that or use the Motorcraft # D311 12127 GA / 4D30 that is currently in the truck and add a pertronix to it?

Now the second motor. It does not turn over. I believe it to rusted in place. I would think it could be worked loose or taken apart and built. I have no real need for this motor so I will be parting it out if anyone needs pieces.
It has all the emissions bits and pieces for California emissions according to the valve cover sticker. Engine still had the engine tag. I have never seen one before and was a bit shocked. it reads 300 71 20 / T-B K0132K.
The carb is Carter-Weber for Motorcraft # 7432s.
There is a strange pivoting bar that goes across the intake between the carb and the rear of the engine. I don't know if this was for an automatic or just something I have never seen as part of the linkage.

I will upload some pics when I have a chance, and get the engines off the truck.

 

I'd use the D3TF12127GA. Here's why:
*********************
C8TF12127U fits:
69/71 B-F600 (S/T).
69 N600 (S/T).
70/71 C500/600 (S/T).
70/71 LN600 (S/T).
*********************
D3TF12127GA fits:
73/74 E300 (body style 89).
73/75 B-F500 S/T (before ser #W00.001).
73/75 F150/350 S/T (before ser #W00,001).
73/75 P350/500 S/T (before ser #W00,001).

 

so you would use it because it's for newer applications and if I am reading that right, truck applications?

 

I'd use it because it was used in and calibrated for pickup truck applications. The C8TF was designed and calibrated strictly for Medium Duty trucks. Like F600's.

 

OK, I got a couple pics of the engines. I will be using the first engine in my truck. It is clean and only signs of slight oil seepage. I take that as a good sign that it is less abused and more likely had parts torqued properly. I am debating dropping it in the truck and firing it up just to see.



What are your thoughts? The current engine installed has a horrible oil leak and a knock that sounds like a mallet on a block of wood.

If I drop it in it would get a carb soak and rebuild, distributor from the current engine, tune up, and a new fuel pump. I would use the oil pump rod from the the second engine to spin up the pump and make sure there is oil pressure. Also once the distributor is in and the fuel pump mounted, turning the engine by hand to make sure the pump and distributor are working.

I think it is a roll of the dice, but a rebuild would be a couple months away due to finances.

here are some quick pics of the first motor. the one I will be using







Now the second engine. This one as I stated earlier is, I believe, rusted in place. It has some broken intake/exhaust bolts and one ear from the exhaust manifold is broken. It has the black breather with all the proper mounting brackets. I don't like the look so I don't plan to use this one. The carb is probably rebuildable, but I think some of the linkage is missing. It has a pivot rod that might be a kick down for an automatic, but I don't know. It is visible in the pics. There is very little I foresee needing from this engine, so it might get parted out.

Here are some pics.

 

Mine has an engine tag like that.

 

Yep Greg. It is for an A/T kick down rod.

 

Thanks Jeff for the verification.