When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed two switches on the dash. One for running lights, one for headlights. It's a hard wired DRL of sorts so they only have power when the ignition is on or in ACC. There are several large wires below the steering column. I tapped into one and split it to power the two switches. Each switches load goes to the headlight feed and running light feed respectively.
Now, when I try to roll my window up or down it cuts the power to running board lights and likely more, then after a few seconds comes back on with a tone. This is with the switches in the off position.
I'm attaching a video. In the video you can see the switches to the right on the dash, and the running board light switch off at the bottom of the video and then come back on at the end.
However from the pic I can see the switches and I do have to say I like the mounting point
Thanks. Only problem is that part of the dash is the whole thing, so a bit of a pain to replace if I decided I didn't like the switches there... I'd rather have put a F650 center in... If I find one at a junkyard it'll happen.
You're likely overburdening the wiring and may have crossed signaling due to where you are picking up power/switching.
Normally aux. lighting is plumbed back to the battery and the switch is mounted and fused separate from everything else. The OEM light switch might handle some extra juice, but these days I wouldn't want to burden them with 2x normal operating conditions. Small fogs can be hooked and powered through the fusebox, but headlight class operation would require a 20-30 amp line I believe.
Personally I never like to cut into wiring harnesses under the dash these days as you don't know the dependencies a wiring scheme may have if you don't look at a dedicated schematic.
Okay, I guess I could just pull off the battery directly and use the ignition wire for a relay? I'm not in my home town anymore and I'd swear the folks behind the counter couldn't tell s dip stick from a popsicle stick so they're no help. It's a 00' or I'd buy the factory relay kit.
As for all the yellow jumpers on the harness, they were there when we bought it. I wonder why someone would put all those on there like that?
Basically you'll be providing power from your battery directly to the lights, but using a relay you'll use your switches at lower amperage to make them turn on and off.
This is a basic schematic for the setup.
I'd suggest 2 relays or a relay capable of multiple outputs from separate switches. And you'll want to put a decent fuse inline close to the battery so if anything blows it won't short out to the chassis. Online prices for KC relays is like $7 but you may have a local shop that has them.
[QUOTE=Paul Titus;14886458]Basically you'll be providing power from your battery directly to the lights, but using a relay you'll use your switches at lower amperage to make them turn on and off.
This is a basic schematic for the setup.
Wow, great schematic. Basically exactly what I have planned. Thanks for the info on the relay.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
