Ok so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently. I hope this helps.

 

Coincidentally enough, I've had a couple of these coming back in with random misfires shortly after replacing the timing chain. Doing forward, I reset the misfire counter with IDS uner service functions now, after every one I do (or any other engine that I open up for that matter).

 

Thanks for the video! When I am due to change mine I will make sure they gap them to 28 thousandths.

 

Interesting... So are you starting to see a lot of Ecoboosts needing the new chain TSB? I just had TSB-0194 completed on my motor (new chain) and the horrible rattling noise on cold start came back within a week. I doubt it stretched in a week, there is something deeper going on.

 

Another fantastic vid Brian!!! Thank you sir.

 

Anyone else change these out just to stay ahead of the curve? I'd rather not be in for a repeat of what was happening in the 5.4L but maybe I'm just worrying? Anyone make the change just to do it before 100k?

 

I was planning to ~75K.
Probably going to do it around Christmas ~68K, just because I have the time off.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking as well. Mine is running too good at 45K to make the change.

 

I just swapped plugs, at 44k now, did this and a vacuum pump.

I didnt have a single one gapped under .040. The electrodes looked pretty good though, if I hadn't already bought new plugs, I might have just put the old ones back regapped but I put new SP534s back in, gapped to .028, hopefully I'll see a mileage bump. I didn't really have much for problems with the old plugs, just a bit of stumble at idle.

 

That is how mine was.... the idle smoothed out for a little while... Back to the same as before now.

 

I quite changing plugs myself since Ford switched to the modular engines because they are so cluttered but the plug change on the EB looks pretty simple. My wife's truck is getting close to 50k so I might just have to tackle this job myself.

 

It's not bad, the worst part is getting the electrical connectors off the coils. There's enough room to manuver a rachet for a change.

 

My first plug change was a bit of a challenge. The coils would not release from the plug and I had to pry out every coil. Be very careful when prying because you can crack the coil. The coils have lifted out by hand ever since the first time.

My original plugs were tighter than **** too. Tighten to only 11 lb-ft torque. And I found a loose piece of tape inside one of the holes so I suggest checking every hole for foreign objects with flashlight and mirror.

 

I went to change my plugs and noticed that the connectors had been removed as some were broken or showed pry marks. Needless to say, I pulled a plug out and they were new. I also checked gap and put it back in. The design of the electrical connectors is horrible. I have one that definitely needs to be replaced as I had a very difficult time getting it to re-connect. I watched a video on swapping out the connector without splicing wires. I may give it a shot.

 

The first spark plug he removed appeared to be a bit looser than I would have expected. Great video!