If your even questioning the oil pump I'd advise you to replace it. Especially with the swarf that was in it new I'd question the quality of that pump. You also has abismaly low oil pressure as well.

 

I guess I didn't mention that, it is a new pump, actually, the second new pump. The first came with all the rebuild stuff I bought off craigslist. Not knowing the age of it or if it sat at the bottom of an aquarium for a month, I figured I'd replace it given the low oil pressure.

I think I figured out the oil business though. I remember someone posting that I should check the pick up tube. I did, but not very thoroughly. The side I measured looked like it would be about 1/2 inch above the bottom. Upon further review the other side was nearly touching the bottom. A little annoying as this was a new 460 rear sump kit (pick up included). Just primed it again and it was noticeably easier to turn and whatevever "glug-glug" was going on is no longer there.

Also, I think I figured out the main problem. I was barking up the wrong branch of the valve geometry tree. Let me know if you think this (coupled with low oil pressure) would lead to my problems:

The machine shop put on the wrong length springs. This is particularly vexing as I provided them with 12 correct ones, searched out, ordered and hand delivered the remaining four, only to have them order new ones and install them. Being inexperienced I figured something about them didn't match the cam etc. and didn't question it.

According to the book I am building out of, during the mid seventies there is one year for the 460 heads that has shorter springs: 1973. My year and heads. They are about 1/8th" shorter, the exact length of the ones I purchased.

I did make one big mistake that I will not make again (well, I made plenty, but in regards to this problem). Not finding my original compression before starting the engine. If I had checked, I would have found very little, and been forced to figure this out before potentially damaging and shortening the life of my newly rebuilt engine.

The push rod fiasco resulted from me looking up my block number and the reference I found decoded the engine as 1971. I found out today that pretty much every 1970's block is a D1VE. D1 does stand for 1971, but only indicates the block's original production design was from 1971. Also, the block has far less to do with the the push rod length difference than the head.

Anyway, I just changed the springs in cylinder 1 and I'm back to good compression. Now for the rest...

 

Sounds like your on the right track. Wrong springs, and wrong pushrods would make for a very poor running engine. If it ran at all.

 

the block definately makes a difference in pushrod length...

the D1VE castings have 10.320 deck ht where as the earlier is 10.300.

regardless, i am not sure the length of spring has much to do with it unless it was vastly different - what was the recommended installed ht of each, what is the seat pressure at installed ht, and what is coil bind at?

Point is, different springs will always be the same installed ht when on the same valve - the valve determines the installed ht....not the spring. For your springs to be an issue they would have to be grossly incorrect.

Typical distance between pan bottom and pickup is 3/8".

Make sure you have a good mech gauge hooked up.

You should be priming the engine wtih an elec drill set on reverse - not a ratchet....hand or air.

If not too late, relube the bottom of the lifters with assy lube.

make sure you use a zinc additive or high zinc content oil for re-break-in.

you need to repeat this procedure.

 

You sound close to getting this started again!

Perhaps get some video so we can share with your joy,


or sorrow...

 

Any updates Sasparilla?

 

Where to start?! First of all, push rods were never wrong. I was barking up the wrong branch of the valve geometry tree. More on that in a bit.

OK, regarding some of the suggestions: I did install a good mechanical oil pressure gauge, did use 40 weight high zinc oil with a can of lucus break in for good measure, did re-lube the lifters, cam and valve train.

Admittedly I don't fully understand all of what Something Clever said about spring loads, valve and deck heights, but I think I have a loose grip on it. The stock assembled valve height for 1973 heads was actually only about 1/16" shorter than other 1970's 460s. However, when I stood the springs I bought next to the ones the machine shop installed, theirs were about 1/8th taller.

I applied the only logic my knowledge and experience could lend: If these springs were of similar strength, and that the combination of the non-adjustable rocker arms and stock push rods were hanging the valves open, then the shorter valve springs may solve the problem. This theory was definitely based on an assumption, but putting on the springs I bought did keep the valves from hanging open. But...oil pressure remained an issue.

Another public service announcement: When you find yourself without plastigage or mics, or don't know what those are and are reading that you should use them to determine bearing clearances, don't think "How could a couple thousandths be that important in a giant work-horse engine like this?" Stop, read up on it, and go get yourself one of the two. Second part of public service announcement. Go ahead and pay attention to the experienced people on this website. I can't remember who said it (I think co425), but someone said I needed to, at a minimum, check the main bearing clearances. I got hung up chasing other leads when I could have had the oil pressure problem solved earlier and with less expense.

I was blowing oil right by the mains and could only get passable pressure when my 40 weight oil was cold. Changed my mains with .01 under (confusing term as they are thicker, but the term refers to the crankshaft being under). Afterwards, plstigage showed me right on the tight end of spec and oil pressure is beautiful. With the heavier oil its a little high when cold (80-90 psi), but sits right around 40 psi when warm. I will go back to 30 weight at next change.

Engine is running quite nicely. I still need to correct a couple exhaust issues and dial in the timing a bit, but all in all the engine is great. I will try and load up the only video I have. It is a listen only as I was driving at night with the phone in my lap.

The reason you haven't heard from me in awhile is because as soon as I had my engine success I got a kick to the junk from my transmission. I would need 4 pages to describe it, but I finally got it 95% there after another 1.5 rebuilds. The education continues!

Thanks again to all of you for taking the time to help. Really would have been lost without the insights.

 

Good to hear you got her up and running properly. Especially with excellent oil pressure now. After she breaks in a bit your oil pressure will drop a tad. Probably down to 60-70 cold and likewise for warm.

 

Great to hear....no education is cheap, quick, or easy!