If or when you get to the drill in oil pump test, watch the oil pressure gauge as it should register something.

Hopefully something normal...

Anyway, watching this intently because of the pictures ;D

 

So far yes your working on this one bit at a time.

As far as degreeing the cam, you are correct they only go on one way with a key. However they make degreeing keys that have an offset to them so you can set up your cam properly. Either way it should run just fine in the stock position it's more of an optimal performance thing in your case.

I would for sure check your harmonic damper and make sure it hasn't slipped as stated above as a first check.

I will also throw out there that in the past I have set my plug wire order off one spot and she still ran. Poorly but ran until I figured it out. Then there is the 180* out issue but your engine will not normally run. Usually you get pops and backfires in that case.

 

Even though the machine shop said the put the galley plugs in. I would verify that based strictly on your oil pressure reading. I would not want to risk the engine based on an assumption.

Based on your pictures of the oil pan and oil filter stuff I'd say you didn't wipe the cam. You'd have a mess of crap in the pan, filter and very metallic oil. I have a feeling with that swarf left in the oil pump (which looks like manufacturing crap) that is where the crap in your filter came from. The pump pushes right into your filter.

 

If I thought I was lucky before, I am feeling really lucky now. Problem (or at least symptom) solved as far as the performance issue goes. Took the driver side valve cover off and did not find good things. Two push rods decided to go on strike and were laying next to the rocker arms. Looked down from the top and up from the bottom and could see nothing where the lifters should be.

Pulled the intake and found this:

The rod laying over in the back is the throttle linkage, just so you're not confused.

One lifter was damaged and its push rod was bent slightly. I believe the bending happened before the derailing as you can see, what I can best describe as, a wobbly circular wear pattern on the push rod's seat


When it eventually jumped ship, the retainer spring busted loose, but stayed attached to the lifter:


The innards flew toward the back of the block where the oil return ports (assumption as to purpose) are. This is where I get even more lucky, though both appear small enough to fit through the hole, they nestled in against each other and waited for me to find them. All parts are accounted for. Phew.

Also, was able to confirm the two two oil galley plugs (that I can see) below the intake are in place. I'm having a hard time finding a comprehensive list or diagram.

Side note, how in the hell is my cam supposed to get oil with this baking sheet for an intake gasket above it?

The two ejected lifters look fine (as far as the the foot being completely flat with no irregular wear). I will be replacing the bent rod and damaged lifter. I'm going to pull the rest of them (keeping them paired and marked as to which cylinder/phase), inspect them all, and go through the installation process again. I must have messed up my crank positioning somehow when I set all of this. It's the only thing I can think of. Anyway, if I'm going astray anywhere here, feel free to holler at me. thanks again for your input.

 

oh, in case it means something more to someone else, the ejected rods/lifters were exhaust #5 and exhaust #7. This also helps explain why I had glowing ports on 6 and 8 only on that side. Doesn't do much to explain why 1 and 2 weren't hot though. Maybe this has to do with them being close to the water ports? or the design of the intake?

 

strike the part about "perfectly flat". Upon closer viewing, they are slightly convex, which I now remember is good.

 

Wow, that's a mess for sure. Sad to say but I would not feel comfortable without pulling the top end, timing set, and cam completely apart. I would want to check for valve and piston damage as well. I cannot think of any reason for this to happen except for piston to valve contact or sticking valves. If you do go that far you may as well pull the cam and inspect it for damage.

 

I was struggling with that decision. If I'm struggling, that means I probably should. One theory, and one that I think you would have some good input on, is this:

I clearly didn't have my timing well set or the carburetor ready to run when I first tried to start it up. In addition, I was having a hell of a time getting fuel to the carb (one peculiarity of my truck is the gas always wants to run back to the tank). I have put a band aid on the fuel problem by installing an electric pump to prime the system. Anyway, as my attempts to fire this sucker up got warmer (i.e. started getting it to fire and run, albeit poorly) I had valves in slightly open positions when they should be closed and explosions happening in adjacent chambers. Jesus, I really didn't know what I was doing. Isn't it likely that the damaged push rod and lifter basically got detonated off its foundation? I imagine also that it jarred the valve train pretty good and that might have caused the number 5 exhaust to jump? The number 5 looks perfect so this one vexes me.

Results of the inspection are good, I think. No lifters are flat or concave, or show irregular wear (all the wear patterns were concentric)

The following lifters showed slightly more wear and less convexity:
#2 intake
#4 exhaust
#7 intake

the following rods showed slight bowing, I mean, when I put the bow towards a straight edge I couldn't fit a .001 feeler gauge through:

#2 intake
#8 both rods

I will probably go ahead and tear it down as you suggest tomorrow. I'm just running out of time and money. Still don't want the lingering questions if I don't, and I surely don't have money to do this all over again. Many thanks

 

i think you didn't have the rockers adjusted correctly you could have the above problem.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe his rockers are the adjustable type. I'm pretty sure looking at the picks he has hydraulic flat tappets with the factory non adjustable stamped rockers. I could be wrong though.

 

Funny you two would be on this topic as I just opened the computer to chime in on this subject. Correct. Non-adjustable rocker arms. Actually, you're both correct because the way you adjust them is with longer and shorter push rods.

Just got off the Baxter website and in 1976 for the f-series they list the following lengths as standard for push rods:

8.5500 (the length in there now) and
8.6160

Now, my block is a D1VE which means it is a 71 and from the line originally developed for Lincoln. There is only one standard length listed for a Lincoln 460 in 1971 and it is:

8.6480

I guess a 460 is not just a 460. That is like 3/16 longer than what I have, which seems like enough to make one jump out huh? Unless I'm missing something, I've found the problem?! The only problem is, I went through the protocol in the book for how many turns to contact fulcrum etc. and it checked out. Better check it again

Oh, btw, it looks like my lifters are correct for a 1971 continental so I don't have to adios them

Man, I hope the future me reads this all the way through to the end and makes sure he knows what the **** he has before starting a build

 

yes i didn't look at the pic close enough they are stamped pedestal mount bolt-down and go - however his earlier comments about being able to turn almost all the pushrods except for two is an indication there is a valvetrain issue. Whether rocker related, cam lobe related, or pushrod length related.

Further, if the heads have been redone the tip of the valvestem can also change - usually not a big deal for hydraulic deal, but one should check the lifter preload of the bolt to spec type rockers regardless - should be around .030" preload.

Check it with a dial indicator on the rocker tip of a valve that has no oil in the lifter. (so it plunges down as you slowly tighten teh rocker while watching the indicator)

 

Thanks, I will check them. I do not have a dial indicator, but my book has instructions for how to do it without them. One confusion I am having though, the way I interpret the book, you should just be able to rotate the push rods by hand. Maybe I misinterpreted this part and you should only be able to do so when that particular lobe is at the bottom of its arc?

 

only rotate when cam is at base circle...still some slight drag should be present.

 

Yep, a push rod the wrong length would definitely be an issue. Not opening your valves far enough and keeping them closed far too long would in effect change your timing.

I would seriously consider replacing your lifters as a set. Rather then just the damaged ones. Along with new push rods you should be good to go.

Also you are correct somethingclever. Those push rods should spin with hand pressure on the base circle of the cam.