I would also change the EGR cooler while you are in there, mainly because your coolant went somewhere and you didn't mention the degas bottle puking or any other coolant leaks so a leaking EGR cooler is a good bet, you could pull the EGR valve and see if you have moisture in the intake as well to confirm it.

 

EGR is deleted. Would I still need to pull or change anything else?

 

Is the EGR cooler completely gone? If so then no.

 

Sits just above the intake and off the Passenger side of the valve cover? Yup gone!

 

Have you checked to make sure the oil looks good? I'm wondering where your coolant went if it didn't puke and your egr is deleted. Is it possible the oil cooler was blown before the egr was deleted? If not, isn't the only place the coolant can go is in the combustion chamber?

The PO of my truck replaced the oil cooler, and deleted the egr cooler before I bought it, but there was an oily exhaust residue floating in my degas bottle until I flushed it and installed a coolant filter.

 

It's been deleted for at least 3 years and my coolant hasn't been an issue until recently. I did a FLUSH on it this late summer and all was good.

Here's what I am thinking, and please if you have IDEAS or corrections feel free to chime in!

1:Buying Oil Cooler- looks like Sinister Diesel has the cooler and coolant filter system kit. Brand ok? Or should I look somewhere else? I understand FORD OEM parts. but, if an aftermarket is doing good things for less $$ I am good with it.

2: STC fitting; I have a '06 so it sounds like chances are this would go long before the actual pump itself (according to a few vids I watched)

3: Someone mentioned while I am in there to do plugs and Standpipes. This I am still a little questioning. These go bad? or Just a good thing to update someone give me a little knowledge here?

4: I have #6 Injector pulling code (new injector is already on hand) replace this.

5: Check my ICP / IPR for issues

6: FLUSH Coolant system with?

Please name what and where to get the other parts.

Thanks Guys!

BTW: I have to do U- Joints and tie rod ends too! YEAH!

 

[QUOTE=Dbergeson;14866546]It's been deleted for at least 3 years and my coolant hasn't been an issue until recently. I did a FLUSH on it this late summer and all was good.

Here's what I am thinking, and please if you have IDEAS or corrections feel free to chime in!

1:Buying Oil Cooler- looks like Sinister Diesel has the cooler and coolant filter system kit. Brand ok? Or should I look somewhere else? I understand FORD OEM parts. but, if an aftermarket is doing good things for less $$ I am good with it.
As long as the oil cooler is OEM this is fine, what ever you do, do not install a non OEM oil cooler or you could end up with a dorman which is a terrible thing.
2: STC fitting; I have a '06 so it sounds like chances are this would go long before the actual pump itself (according to a few vids I watched)
Letting the STC fitting fail can cause the branch tube to crack the rear engine cover and also cause a no start.

3: Someone mentioned while I am in there to do plugs and Standpipes. This I am still a little questioning. These go bad? or Just a good thing to update someone give me a little knowledge here?
They are known to fail just like the STC fitting and will cause a no hot no start which is the reason for the OEM updated parts.

4: I have #6 Injector pulling code (new injector is already on hand) replace this.

5: Check my ICP / IPR for issues

6: FLUSH Coolant system with?

Please name what and where to get the other parts.

Thanks Guys!

BTW: I have to do U- Joints and tie rod ends too! YEAH!

 

[QUOTE=mustang_309;14866601]

 

[QUOTE=Dbergeson;14866625]



I'll second what Brett said. You gotta pull the oil rail to change the injector. No reason not to go back updated stand pipes and dummy plugs upon reinstall.


Sinister makes (or relabels) an oil cooler with larger passages, but FTE users have noticed higher deltas when using this cooler. That and the failing Dorman gaskets is why OEM oil coolers are the only way to go unless you go with a BPD or a IPR remote oil cooler kit.


Back to the original problem.


You have a deleted EGR cooler for three years. Did a flush this summer and now you have an oily substance floating in your degas bottle. Is the coolant brown or dark? If so, I hope your oil cooler is the cause for the residue floating in your coolant. If the coolant is clean but with an oily/sooty floating substance, I hope the substance is left over from the summer flushing. Otherwise, the implication is HGs.


Other things to do while there.


1) Clean turbo: Not required and takes a few hours and about $40 in materials.


2) Clean sensors: EBP, IAT2 and MAP.


3) Blue spring fuel pressure regulator if not already done.


4) Go to a self service car wash and clean the intake manifold.


5) Cut off and grind smooth the EGR chamber anchor tab from the intake manifold. This will allow you to pull the intake without pulling the turbo in the future.


6) You may want to do a flush before changing the oil cooler. Use only a degreaser. If you want to use Restore or Restore + (Ford VC9), drive the truck 5k miles before changing the cooler. I just did that and plugged a new oil cooler in 4k miles. Just finished the second oil cooler in a year. It appears the acids and caustics tend to loosen things up that lodge in the oil coolers. So, unless you want to drive it a while after flushing, only use a degreaser. A mechanic I trust uses cascade mixed with other stuff he will not divulge. Simple green, the purple stuff, or any non-foaming degreaser will also work.


Use a shop vac to keep the valley clean. Stuff paper or rags in the intake ports. Don't over torque the oil cooler cover to oil filter base bolts. You'll wind up with five heli-coils like me. Run a 1" diameter shop vac line down the hole from the HPOP reservoir to the oil pump to get any debris that may have fallen. Remove and clean the IPR (maybe even put a new screen kit on it). Don't use silicone on the gaskets to keep them in place when reassembling. A little grease should do it (if needed). To ensur eno turbo leaks, loosen exhaust manifold to up pipes and keep turbo loose until ypipe and turbo exhaust are tight. Anti-sieze on the parts will help the clamps slip into place and clamp harder.


I get most my parts from a small place just north of Nashville called SWAG Performance parts. He is cheaper than Tousley (White Bear Lake), but the website needs work and he had trouble with some aftermarket pigtails. Apparently he's primarily an OEM guy. Jason @ 615-442-0359. He's great to talk with and works hard to keep your business. His does not presently charge a restocking fee for returns. I'm sure that will change when he gets big enough.

 

New cooler is in, had to tear and build it twice...


So have low pressure for sure (gauge on dash shows that), oil and diesel to filters. Still a no start cranked for agood minute minute and a half. Should I just keep going on the crank, or possibly something else wrong?


HPOP I changed the fitting, but it seems someone was already in there and did it (had updated fitting). Didn't do stand or dummy plugs. Cleaned and replaced screen on IPR.


Any checks? Bringing it into Ford tomorrow to have computer on it, hoping it tells me something.


Cheers and happy New Years!

 

It could take two minutes of cranking to start after doing an oil cooler. If you pour 2 quarts of oil down the center of the oil filter ( must remove the standpipe), it could crank in s few seconds of starting. That's what I did and it only took 6 seconds of cranking.

Do you have any way to read live data. If not, spend $30 and get done way to read the sensors. It'll be the best money you'll spend on the truck.

It's been so long, I don't remember your symptoms. Did you have a no start before the work?

 

Yup it was a no start b4 cooler. Hpop? I have read and watched vids that the 06 pump was bulletproof except the fitting.

I have an edge cs on it.

 

What is the ICP and IPR% while cranking?
It can take quite a bit of cranking after work like this, crank it for 30 seconds at a time giving the starter a break in between attempts. If after 3 or so minutes of crank time and still no start pull the oil filter and hold down the drain back valve in the bottom of the oil filter housing and crank the engine and see if the housing fills with oil and how long it takes to fill, if it fills then reinstall the filter and pull the IPR valve and check for a damaged or pushed in screen, it is very common to end up with crap in the IPR screen after work on the oil cooler despite your best efforts at being clean while doing the work.

 

Are you building icp psi yet and I'm assuming your icpv are still good?

 

What pressure does your hpop show?

If a little more cranking doesn't work, check the ipr, the the stand pipes and dummy plugs.

I assume you checked the ipr when you changes the stc. Because you had the updated stc before the work, my guess is ipr or dummy plugs and stand pipes. Live data will help narrow it down. An air test will show bad dummy plugs.