When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just fixed one thing, immediately have another problem ..... Anyways switched out a blower motor resistor, and it works fine. Problem now, truck won't start. It will crank, but I have no fuel pressure. Checked all the fuses, replaced one instrumentation fuse, no luck. Anyways another oddity I tried to check voltage at back of my fuses for 12 volt power, NONE of them have it. Is this odd, with key on ? When I put key in accessory position, nothing happens. So, wondering if I might have a Ignition switch problem ? Also I have a battery voltage meter on the dash, it is indicating only about 8 to 10 amps with key on before cranking, I usually don't look at it if truck cranks and runs, so not sure what is normal .....
The Voltmeter will show the battery VOLTAGE with the key in the Start or Run position.
Ok, then, so how does one account for the battery voltage @ 8 or 10 amps at the meter on the dash, when in actuality it is approx 12 volts at the battery ? What would cause this oddity ?
Nobody has an opinion on the whole scenario as described ?
I think rla2005's point was the dash gauge reads in volts, not amps.
So, you have 12 volts at the battery. Check a few other points, maybe cigar lighter, headlights. Do you have a full 12V here? Verify that your dash gauge is reading correctly.
Ok, then, so how does one account for the battery voltage @ 8 or 10 amps at the meter on the dash, when in actuality it is approx 12 volts at the battery ? What would cause this oddity ?
Nobody has an opinion on the whole scenario as described ?
Inaccurate gauge, poor ground at G200 (behind passenger side kick panel), or poor power connection to the cluster. More than once I have found one of the connectors behind the cluster unlatched and slowly falling out of the socket.