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Got a F-250 2 wheel drive. I had both rear axle seals leaking...replaced them both and I snugged the nut down like you would do in the front...went to pick something up with the truck both axles were leaking and the truck was driving funny. Brought it home and tore back into it and both nuts had worked there way loose...what am I doing wrong here?
The rear hub uses a nut that takes a special socket. You can do it without the socket but it makes it harder to tell how tight the nut is. It sure sounds like it wasn't tight enough. I usually drop the bearings in gear oil to make sure that they have some lube to start with.
The rear hub uses a nut that takes a special socket. You can do it without the socket but it makes it harder to tell how tight the nut is. It sure sounds like it wasn't tight enough. I usually drop the bearings in gear oil to make sure that they have some lube to start with.
I drove all over town looking for that socket and could not find one...what amazed me is that the one on the drivers side has left handed threads and that was more loose the the right side...I snugged the good this time and when I spun the hub if felt it had some drag to it....but spun freely...I also tried checking play by pulling the hub towards me and had no movement....its just a scary thing...I will drive it for a while and check them again...I thought though the were a special lock nut and would not back off on their own?
What year is your truck and what axle do you have, there are different torque specifications. My book shows, dana or ford axle.1987 early or later.
Does yours have a locking wedge.
it is a 1986 with the 10.25 ring gear and yes it has the locking wedge nut..I think its were they are not supposed to back off...this is all new to me...I could not find a tool for this anywhere
Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the keyway prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.
Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.
Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!
Make sure the tang that fits in the keyway is not broke off. If it is, or your nut doesn't click when you back it off, then you will need new nuts. Autozone has them, part number 615-134. They come as a set of two for $80.
Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the keyway prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.
Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.
Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!
Make sure the tang that fits in the keyway is not broke off. If it is, or your nut doesn't click when you back it off, then you will need new nuts. Autozone has them, part number 615-134. They come as a set of two for $80.
Yep, I hear no clicks when backing them off for the first time...and neither one of them had the key way tab..
That's your problem. The whole thing is spinning without the little tab. Grab the od with your hand to hold it, and then take the socket and try to back off the center portion. It should try to stop you, or you should feel it clicking. Your whole nut is turning, there is nothing holding it without the keyway tab.
That's your problem. The whole thing is spinning without the little tab. Grab the od with your hand to hold it, and then take the socket and try to back off the center portion. It should try to stop you, or you should feel it clicking. Your whole nut is turning, there is nothing holding it without the keyway tab.
****...got to take it apart again...i dont have the socket but found this one on ebay...is it the right one? also if the nut is on the axle and tight...can I use a flat screwdriver as a wedge between the outer side of the nut and the hub and try and turn the inner part backwards to see if it locks?
****...got to take it apart again...i dont have the socket but found this one on ebay...is it the right one? also if the nut is on the axle and tight...can I use a flat screwdriver as a wedge between the outer side of the nut and the hub and try and turn the inner part backwards to see if it locks?
DUH...I see the problem....my do not have that little tab sticking out of the backside that goes on the key way...it didnt have tham when i took it apart...do they break off?
I got one at NAPA. They had it out on the floor, not even hidden in the back somewhere. Mine has "NAPA 3195" printed on it. It looks a lot like this one from NAPAs on-line catalog:
DUH...I see the problem....my do not have that little tab sticking out of the backside that goes on the key way...it didnt have tham when i took it apart...do they break off?
I am sure it could break off, especially if someone didn't have the right socket, was tapping on it with a punch, and started hitting on the od of the nut instead of the id were the clicker thing is.
I am sure it could break off, especially of someone didn't have the right socket, was tapping on it with a punch, and started hitting on the od of the nut instead of the id were the clicker thing is.
ok I took the right side apart and found that i do have the little tab that goes in the key way...it was nice and tight before i took it apart...But i took it apart to make sure...spun the lock nut on my hand and it is working properly...so I put it back together and tightened it down tapping it with a screwdriver and a hammer...spun the hub and proceeded to snug it down...could feel drag on the hub when i spun it...I will pull the left side tomorrow, to tired to do it today....wife is bugging me to get the Christmas tree....
thanks for everyone's input. will follow up on the left...
...so I put it back together and tightened it down tapping it with a screwdriver and a hammer...spun the hub and proceeded to snug it down...could feel drag on the hub when i spun it...
Did you get to the specified 55 - 65 lb-ft of torque with your screwdriver and hammer? My point being that getting the correct tool not only makes it easier, but also allows you to do it right rather than probably good enough.
And to be complete, my Ford service manual gives the specs for installing the spindle nut on the full-floating rear axle as:
Tighten hub nut to 75-88 Nm (55-65 lb-ft). Rotate rear hub occasionally while tightening. Ratchet back eight teeth or notches (1/6 turn) on the hub nut.
Did you get to the specified 55 - 65 lb-ft of torque with your screwdriver and hammer? My point being that getting the correct tool not only makes it easier, but also allows you to do it right rather than probably good enough.
And to be complete, my Ford service manual gives the specs for installing the spindle nut on the full-floating rear axle as:
Tighten hub nut to 75-88 Nm (55-65 lb-ft). Rotate rear hub occasionally while tightening. Ratchet back eight teeth or notches (1/6 turn) on the hub nut.
ABSOLUTLY....dont you have a torque hammer? LMAO....Im gonna get the socket from napa and do it correctly which is the reason I didnt pull the other side...and I appreciate your input and everyone else has helped me...im gonna print your last message and do it properly....just pisses me off i went to napa and asked for the tool and the guy looked at me like i was stupid....now that i have the part number im gonna go teach him something.