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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Ride hight help

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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 07:22 PM
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Ikestang's Avatar
Ikestang
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From: Spanaway,WA
Ride hight help

Doing my first "build up". My 69 f100. I've got it torn down to the frame, got my crown Vic front end in. C notched in the rear, now I'm ready to set my rear and install a triangulated 4 link. I want to have a level ride height but not sure on how to achieve this with it torn down. The nose is higher without the engine. I'm doing a 390 with a 4 speed. Any pointers on getting it level without installing the engine? It's in pieces anyways. Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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Ikestang
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Here is what I got to work with. Other than stacking some weights on the front end or have some of my fatty friends stand on it while I take measurements im out of ideads
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by Ikestang
Doing my first "build up" of my 69 f100. I've got it torn down to the frame, got my crown Vic front end in. C notched in the rear, now I'm ready to set my rear and install a triangulated 4 link. I want to have a level ride height but not sure on how to achieve this with it torn down. The nose is higher without the engine. I'm doing a 390 with a 4 speed. Any pointers on getting it level without installing the engine? It's in pieces anyways. Thanks!
1. Park on level surface.
2. Remove front wheels and set the front of the frame at ride height. A CV swap lowers the front about five inches from stock. You did take measurements before cutting her up, right?
3. Position the rear of the frame at ride height. Generally one-inch higher than the front using the same plane for a little bit of rake which is what I prefer....
4. Position the rear axle at the correct wheelbase and square to the frame.. the horizontal center line of the axle is 1/2 the diameter of the tire but allow for 1/2-inch of tire crush. Also establish the correct pinion angle. Tack the axle in position using lengths of steel.
5. Install the triangulated four link.
6. Establish the final rear ride thru a combination the adjustable (threaded body?) rear coil over shocks, upper shock mount at the new crossmember, and lower shock mounts. If they are not adjustable (uh-oh), then ya might have to take an educated guess at the required spring rate.

That should get ya in the ballpark. Good luck!!!!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 08:07 PM
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Ikestang
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From: Spanaway,WA
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
You did take measurements before cutting her up, right?
Yeah........ about that. This is my first build so that was my first rook mistake. I did take lots on the rear measurements though. So ride height isnt too critical setting the rear, just get it close. When I install the shocks I can fine tune it a little right. Ive heard a few different pinion angle answers. 3 deg tilted back, level, and point it it at the output shaft??
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by Ikestang
Yeah........ about that. This is my first build so that was my first rook mistake. I did take lots on the rear measurements though. So ride height isnt too critical setting the rear, just get it close. When I install the shocks I can fine tune it a little right. Ive heard a few different pinion angle answers. 3 deg tilted back, level, and point it it at the output shaft??
Arrightee... shucks. That's okay...we've all been there where our enthusiasm overpowers rationale.

Well, one way is to PM someone else who has done the CV retrofit (with an FE!) to the get the frame height and the height of their front tire size. You'll need to adjust accordingly if no one responds with the tire size you are using.. again, allow for 1/2-inch of tire crush. Then remove the front springs and set the frame height to that measurement.

Rear pinion angle is set so the U-joints are within two degrees of each other, generally. You're installing a triangulated four-link so I assume it is adjustable. Here's a pic to visualize between right, wrong, and no way.

 
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