what specs are you looking for?


racinndrummin and my brother just installed a s366 with a .91ar divided housing on my brothers truck and it fits in there a lot better then his hx35 did, the mapping (sits around the 74% efficiency island with the 7.3l at 3500rpm and a 3.0pr or 28psi boost) it looks great on paper and it performs just as good.


the s366 flows 78lbs/min (1130cfm) it has 2 different exhaust housings from bw and both are a 74mm turbine wheel. the first housing is a .89ar open housing and the 2nd is the .91ar divided housing.




as far as I know it does not come on anything factory.

 

Justin is there a thread about this dyno testing?

 

Dyno thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...urbo-info.html


Straight from the horses mouth:
BW S256 with a .85 T3 pattern divided exhaust housing
56mm/84mm Compressor wheel
74mm/65mm Turbine wheel
4" inlet/2"outlet compressor cover
3" V-band outlet


BW S360 with a .83 or .91 T4 divided exhaust housing
60mm/84mm Compressor wheel
76mm/68mm Turbine wheel
4" inlet/3"outlet compressor cover
3" V-band outlet

BW S366 With a .91 T4 divided exhaust housing
66mm/92mm compressor wheel
80mm/73mm Turbine wheel
4" inlet/3"outlet compressor cover
3" V-band outlet

 

My research put the HX40w at some where around 1150cfm also...That's why I used it on My Build. Mine has an 18cm2 housing in the MH But I will get a 17cm2 from Banks to use on my Next Build.

 

if anyone is interested in different housings for hx35 and hx40, pm me, i have a 14cm2 for an hx35, and a 16cm2 for an hx40, both gated, and both t-3 flange...

 

A Powerstroke turbo may also be on the list, specs are


STOCK GARRETT TP38 (on the 7.3)
Compressor wheel inducer diameter: 59.87 mm (60 mm)
Compressor wheel exducer diameter: 80 mm
Compressor housing A/R: 1.10
Turbine wheel inducer diameter: 76.2 mm
Turbine wheel exducer diameter: 69.84 mm (70 mm)
Turbine housing A/R: 1.15
However the Borg Warners will probably spool a lot better and easier to install, we'll see how cheap I can get one...


On another note, D60 because my D44 is almost ready to die and a wide ratio ZF to help pull while I have the 6.9 are in the works.

 

Anybody know what a good shop would charge for having things magnafluxed and what kind of shops will have that equipment?


Does a company make a complete overhaul kit for the 7.3 at a reasonable price or a recipe of parts to do an overhaul?


Costs are adding up, my plan currently is as follows:
Injection Pump-700, Injectors-200, Cam-200, Studs-400, Intake-200, Pyro-200
Sum without turbo or overhaul kit:$1900,
Then turbo $50-100 for HX35, 7.3PSD-$100-200?, S300/360-$600
I have a line on 7.3PSD Intercooler and piping for $75

 

I would avoid overhaul kits. They usually retail at $2,000-$2,500 but if you shop the net you can usually find them closer to $1,600-$1,800. The reason I say avoid them is because you will be paying for things you may not want or need. If you are buying a cam grind you won't want to pay for a new stocker. Unless your oil pump is actually bad, chances your old OEM unit is still going to be tighter than the aftermarket crap replacement oil pumps that they still charge plenty of money for. If you do the freeze plugs you will want OEM stainless ones and the correct installation tool, or just pipe plug it and maintain your coolant....
　
The first thing I would do is tear the engine down and figure out what all it needs. If you just need to hone it and re-ring it, then great. If it needs more make a list and price out the parts as well as the necessary machine work. Call around to your local machinists and shop e-Bay for each component. That is the cheapest way. Make sure you are careful about the brands you choose, but you will get your rebuild done cheaper than the kits. Your machinist will try to talk you into buying a kit through him, but stick to your guns and tell him you already have some performance upgrades in mind and prefer to source your own parts. I can't give you a customized list of parts to buy because I don't know what your engine needs... but check out the kits and read what all is included in a 7.3L master overhaul package. It should read something like this:

Pistons
Piston ring set
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Cam bearings
Camshaft
Oil pump
Valve lifters
Complete engine gasket set (intake gasket aka valley pan usually sold separately)
　
In most cases the valves are re-ground and not replaced and the valve springs and rocker arms are re-used. You might consider buying Comp 910 valve springs and giving them to your machinist when you get the heads rebuilt. Parts like valve guides and connecting rod wrist pin bushings are usually supplied by the machinist doing the block and head work and don't come standard in the kit. They are more of an as-needed repair item if the tolerance is out of specification. Bottom line, it is very hard to estimate the rebuild cost until you open it up and check everything out and decide what needs re-done and what is useable as-is.

 

Pretty sure the pump took a dump on the 6.9 today, been starting extremely hard even with ether and finally died on the highway this evening.

 

Does anyone know where the ATS Aurora 2000 turbo fits in among these^?

Would it be pretty comparable to the S360? How about the Aurora 3000?

 

The A2000 is the S256.

 

So the A 3000 is the S360?

Will a t4 turbo bolt in place of a t3? If I want to upgrade someday from my A2000, would the S360 bolt in its place? I have the ATS turbo kit platform.

 

The A3000 is actually more like a S259. The flange depends on the application that you buy the A3000 to fit. When Justin ran the A3000 on his truck, he actually machined an ATS 093 exhaust housing to work with the A3000 exhaust wheel. I was thinking that an early Cummins A3000 would have a T3, but when I asked NMB2 about it he said stop right there, the A3000 is still on a Borg Warner S200 frame. He got with his turbo guy and made me up a S360 (S300 frame turbo) with a machined out S200 .85 A/R T3 exhaust housing. Basically like an A3000 but better. Ask Justin... he might be able to get one made for you. I have since decided to go with one of Justin's turbo kits, so flange type won't matter, but he might be able to get you one with an S200 T3 exhaust or perhaps mill out your ATS 093 hotside to fit the S360.

Edit: a T4 flange turbo will not bolt up to a T3 flange up pipe.

 

The only way you are going to snap the shaft is by barking it and I don't know if you could even make it bark running less than thirty pounds of boost.

 

Sorry I haven't posted anything, been jacking with the Bronco and its in the way of any teardown. Probably getting exhaust this week, the two shops I stopped at both wanted to do 2 1/2" pipe for dual exhaust. That will flow more than a single 3" and hopefully it will sound good. I've always sort of disliked single exhaust.

If anyone knows from experience dual will sound like crap with a turbo give me a shout.