Mild IDI build
#32
Now that I have my exhaust I notice a pretty large puff of white smoke when letting of the throttle at high rmps. Obviously I wouldn't run biodiesel on the highway because that's illegal but I think maybe the stuff I got at the pump was a little bit different stuff. With thicker fuel do I need to bump the timing a little? I don't want to bump it and then get back to pump diesel and be too far advanced. Any advice?
#33
Time for an update, I got an F350 donor truck with a kingpin dana 60 and 7.3. Just picked up a free 6.9 to rebuild and put in the donor truck so stuff will be rolling. Tore the 6.9 halfway down today.
Didn't get the rods and pistons pulled yet but it looks like some melting on a couple of the pistons and maybe a burnt valve. I'm looking to order this re-ring kit Ford 6.9L Diesel 1983-1987 Re Ring Kit | Northern Auto Parts I'm don't know if I should order some different rings to tighten up the second ring gap, what do you guys think?
Didn't get the rods and pistons pulled yet but it looks like some melting on a couple of the pistons and maybe a burnt valve. I'm looking to order this re-ring kit Ford 6.9L Diesel 1983-1987 Re Ring Kit | Northern Auto Parts I'm don't know if I should order some different rings to tighten up the second ring gap, what do you guys think?
#34
As long as your bores are in decent shape, I would give Total Seal a call.
If you don't want to spend that much a set of middle rings, it would be easy to find a set of 4.000" bore rings with the correct thickness in a smaller gap from another application like so:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e-251k/overview/
When you gap your rings, check the gap at ring location at TDC and BDC, that way you have an idea what your bore taper looks like. I would gap the rings as tight as you can to spec, based on the tightest part of the bore.
If you don't want to spend that much a set of middle rings, it would be easy to find a set of 4.000" bore rings with the correct thickness in a smaller gap from another application like so:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e-251k/overview/
When you gap your rings, check the gap at ring location at TDC and BDC, that way you have an idea what your bore taper looks like. I would gap the rings as tight as you can to spec, based on the tightest part of the bore.
#35
Alright, finished tearing down the free (early casting)6.9 honed 7 cylinders before finding a deal on another 6.9, talked the guy down to $150 for a running IP and throwing in a 6.9 long block. This 6.9 is a later casting, still a 440 casting but is the reinforced block. Unfortunately this motor has had a rough life, pictures are worth a thousand words:
Crank from rod bearings
Scuff
Spun rod bearing
Main bearing
2nd spun rod bearing
Haven't found a bearing that looked even passable yet. Imagine I'll take the crank from the early 6.9 and maybe some rods and pistons to build this motor. If anyone needs an early 6.9 block pm me.
Crank from rod bearings
Scuff
Spun rod bearing
Main bearing
2nd spun rod bearing
Haven't found a bearing that looked even passable yet. Imagine I'll take the crank from the early 6.9 and maybe some rods and pistons to build this motor. If anyone needs an early 6.9 block pm me.
#37
All I know is it had a hypermax turbo on it, story goes it died while on a trip and the shop towed it and the owner never came back. One of the rod caps had been taken off at some point so they probably saw what it was and said screw it.
The rod bearings came from #3 and #7, #5 had a broken ring, and about half of the pistons have some erosion around the pre-cup relief.
The rod bearings came from #3 and #7, #5 had a broken ring, and about half of the pistons have some erosion around the pre-cup relief.
#38
7.3 idi turbo. blown head gaskets
I have a 94. 7.3l idi turbo 170k. And I think it has blown head gaskets. Withing 30 seconds of starting it builds a lot of pressure in the radiator and over flow compression testing today. If I have to do the head gaskets I was planning to do some upgrades to give it a little more power. The injectors and ip are original as far as I know but have worked fine but I was planning to replace them since I'll have the engine out. What can I do for a mild built mild budget? No I don't know any info on turbos different sizes or what the parts are just know what they do injectors up pump head studs bigger turbo?
#39
If the system isn't or cant burp, it can do that too. there is a little ball in the upper hose mount IIRC, and it lets air release. My uhaul engine was rusty right there, ball couldn't move, pop goes the weasel. I pulled it, cleaned it, good to go
#40
I just remove the ball. Doesn't affect things a bit temp wise, and it does a far better job of bleeding without it.
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