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I have seen this when I was a Caterpillar mechanic when a injector popped off and fill the cylinder with fuel and caused and Hydraulic lock. Now in most cases the fuel will drain out of the cylinder in to the crankcase bypass the rings after sitting. check and see if you have fuel in your oil pan
I am thinking about putting the new broker and rod on and new injector in then crank it over by hand and see if it moves freely with no binding. If all good then out all back together and run with it. Any thoughts on that.
I am thinking about putting the new broker and rod on and new injector in then crank it over by hand and see if it moves freely with no binding. If all good then out all back together and run with it. Any thoughts on that.
The best way is with a compression gauge in the glowplug hole of that cylinder.
Then you should have a little slack/no pressure on the rocker and you can wiggle them a little.
Slowly rotate the crank by hand ratchet or breaker bar.
The best way is with a compression gauge in the glowplug hole of that cylinder.
Then you should have a little slack/no pressure on the rocker and you can wiggle them a little.
Slowly rotate the crank by hand ratchet or breaker bar.
So what pressure am I looking for to know I am at tdc? The rokers on the cylinder in question are already out
Manual says to clock The crank dowl at 6 o'clock. Doesn't say anything about turning it over before torquing any particular cylinders but I would pull it through by hand anyway just to check for binding. Do you know if the replacement pushrods is shorter? It's my understanding the original legnth ones are no longer available and replacements are 0.050in shorter. It would be ok to mix them I guess, but I might replace them all if it was in the budget. Or possibly the shorter ones were installed during the previous work.
I keep hearing everyone say the new pushrods are .050 shorter, but I'm sort of confused as to what this is supposed to benefit. With hydraulic lifters, unless you are bottoming out the lifter how is that shorter pushrod supposed to matter?
I'm not sure about the benefits but it would change the relationship of how long the oil bleed hole on the side of the lifter is covered and open by the cup inside the lifter. .050 doesn't seem like much to me, I don't think it reduces lift at the valve but there is less pressure inside the lifter with the shorter pushrods. Another possibility is that it's just part of the "commonization" with the 6.4 engine, but either way the ford parts guy is gonna hand you the shorter ones.
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