I got a replacement turn signal switch. I understand that I should be able to pull the pins out of the curved multi connector under the dash board. What is the procedure for releasing the pins?

 

Take the connector in your hand, push the wires into the connector from the back side. Now look at the pin side of the connector, you will see each pin has a small tang that is sticking out of the side of the pin. You will need a small pick or jewlers screw driver to reach in and push the tang in a little while pulling gently on the wire. The wire and pin should then pull out from the back side of the connector.


There is an actual tool you can buy to do this but a small pick or screw driver will work with some patience.

 

Some of these connectors have a red plastic insert that needs to be removed in order for you to remove the pins from the connector. just use a small pair of needle nose pliers to remove the insert.

 

OK, I do have the red insert, and I have pulled it out. I'm unable to push any of the wires forward. I don't have a pick tool. I ran out of light so will be letting it sit for the future.

If there is a tool specifically for this, what should I call it for purchase?.... Or am I better off just to get a pick?

 

Something like this.


Pico Wiring Electrical Connector Tools Pin Extractor for Weather Tite Connectors | eBay


A small pick will work fine unless you plan on doing this fob several times.

 

All you need is a small pick, unbent paper clip, sewing needle, etc.
In the picture you can see the small tab. Just pry it away from the terminal and pull the terminal out. Just be sure to make a diagram of the wire location BEFORE you remove them.

 

Turn signal issues?
First you need to remove the steering wheel, then the turn signal switch. Drive the roll pin out of the gear shift and pull it out. There is some spring pressure to work against to get the shifter out. Then, underneath the turn signal switch are two nuts. Try loosening these first then remove the casting. These are what "clamps" the collar in place. If you take the nuts all the way off the little square head bolts might fall into the steering column and can be a real pain to retrieve. Once all that's out of the way, you can pull the shift collar off. To remove the turn signal switch, you need to remove the phillips head screws that hold the switch in place. Unplug the switch harness under the dash. Look at the harness plug, then look at the terminals, there are little plastic fingers that lock them in place. Depress the fingers and pull the wires out of the plug. Be sure to make a chart of where the wires go. Once the plug is removed, tie a string around the wires and pull the switch out all the way. The string will make getting the wires back through easier. The shift collar just pulls off and the new one pushes on. After that reassemble in reverse order.
I'm used to the 73-77's, the 78-79 might be a little different. In the picture of the plug you can see the little fingers that have to be pulled away from the terminal.

 

This project is on my 76. I have manual shift but still have a automatic steering column. I think the shift stuff is gone. When I take my Grant wheel off, I have access to the 4 phillips head screws that fasten the switch to the column. I have removed the red keeper off the connector under the dash. I have drawn a picture with the orientation of the holes in the connector to diagram which wire colors go where. When I have another day off in the daylight thats not raining, I'll go work on this again. My turn signals are working properly, but the horn is shorted and I had to disconnect the horn.

Thanks all for the advise. I'll let you know when I pick up the project again. I sometimes wonder why I am still working on this truck. My wife has a car and I have a car plus 3 running trucks.

 

Well I mastered the under dash connector. I removed all the pins noting the wire colors and the corresponding locations in the connector.

What I didn't really master is removing the shift collar. I thought that once I got the turn signal switch off, I could just feed the new wires down the tube. My column was originally an automatic shift although the shifter was cut off. I got the two nuts off and have pulled up and out on the shift collar but something is preventing it from coming out.

I have found and ordered off of EBay a PS non shift column (missing turn signal switch-which I already have), so I might just replace the column.

There is a pin that looks like it held the shifter in place. It's partially out of its hole. Is this what I should be trying to get out to free up my shift collar?

 

Save yourself a headache and make a wiring diagram or take a photo of where the wires go before you take it apart

 

It can always be worse....

 

I did make the diagram as I was removing the pins. I should be good when I comes time to reconnect. I did drive out the pin to my shifter (which had be cut off years ago). The shifter actually has been a pad which has stabilized my tach housing. I finally got the middle collar off after I got a snap ring off. The innermost part of the shifter which the shift lever attached to, I couldn't figure out how to remove. I decided to just wait for my non-shifter column to arrive and fish the new wiring through it while it's out of the truck and swap it in. Meantime I put the steering wheel back on so I can drive. Not sure if its a coincidence, but it seems like its taking more effort to steer now. It has been freezing weather, wonder if the cold is effecting my King pins and giving more resistance to steer? Years ago I had to have a King pin replaced because it had galled. I don't hear that noise this time. It also doesn't feel like the PS pump has failed, at least not like when that happens on a transit bus.

 

Well today I swapped out my old steering column for another one. I still had an automatic shift column and this one is a floor shifter column. Because I didn't know what I was doing trying to feed wiring down the tube of auto column, this made it easier to figure out what I was doing.

After figuring out how to feed the wires of my new switch down the tube and put the column back together, I wired the connector. I found that the colors between my old harness and new weren't identical, but after studying the old harness, I was able to plug in the harness and the horn, turn signals and 4 ways worked properly. I then set out to install the new column in the truck. When I got it into the truck, the horn stopped functioning. The turn signals and 4 ways work as they should. Also my dash lights have gone dark.

I'm suspecting that I have a ground issue with the horn. I suspect that the wiring for the light bulb (which I don't need and left the bulb out) at the turn signal switch has effected the dash lights.

Another possibility might be that a wire or wires just behind the switch are shorted.

The steering effort has returned to normal with the new column.

I have a Grant wheel and horn switch. It uses one wire to the horn button switch. if it touches the steering column shaft, it is supposed to sound the horn.

 

More than likely you've got a ground issue at the rag joint. this insulates the column from grounding.
Run a jumper wire from one side of the joint to the other to restore the ground.

 

i asked mike0 about this very issue. i think his advise to me was get an nos switch if i could. i did. i just cut the old connector off with wires intact and when the new one gets here i will remove and replace one at a time in the order they are removed. btw - i had no horn or hazard lights. hope i do when this is over. good luck