Did you have the gasket under the seat?

 

Yeah his videos are awesome. Been watching them.
I'm gonna double check my gasket tomorrow and had my float set per the measurements at one point.
Unfortunately, if you watch one of the other videos, he talks about how some don't have the seat and all you can do is replace the point. I think that's mine.
I'll go another round in the morning.

 

I've restored about 20 of these so far. Spent many hours researching and figuring out what makes these things tick before I ever did. Have about 10 of them up in my loft waiting to get restored. Here's some of what I've learned:

1) The vent tube on most rebuilds get left off and a plug installed into the top. These operated to open upon accel and close off on idle. Most of the "plugs" installed by rebuilders do not 100% plug this orifice off. Doing so creates a vacuum condition in the bowl and it will not fill correctly.

2) The 1/8" NPT inlet is almost 100% of the time too large after years of replacing filters, or people tightening them. Some used a thread-in filter and some, if the filter was in the fuel-pump, had am 1/8" NPT to 5/16 inverted flare fitting. I've had to go as far as drilling the lid and tapping 1/4" NPT. Can be done.

3) 50% have been banged with a hammer so often to "unstick" a float, that many of the plugs in the lid suck air now.

4) Most of the plugs in the top should get replaced or JB'd to make them vacuum capable.

5) The large plug on top is a critical plug. These are available and should get pulled and replaced. The other side of them is the bore of the power valve - and most I check (as cores) do not operate. They are hard to test (requires plugging one orifice in the venturi and using a vacuum pump in the lid port going to the body) but I've bought core that I can never get to work right. And if the power valve isn't working - the carb is a dog.

6) There isn't a pic of your float, but there are two types: brass and plastic. The brass ones are soldered and need to be checked. The plastic type (which can get saturated) may be soaking up fuel and is no longer floating.

7) These carbs are notorious for leaking below the body where the shaft comes out into the accel pump/dashpot valve actuator. You can only check this by pulling the little clip and pulling the spring and actuator.

8) The lids and the accel pump covers are almost always warped. Some rebuilders use extra gaskets on top and there are metal shims for the accel pump covers to help transfer pressure even on the gaskets.

There are other things too, but I've hit the major of them. There are a few sizes of these. Can't recall them all now - but you're probably going to have the largest bore for that motor.

Here's a link to one of the places I've bought parts from:

Autolite 1100 Carburetor Kits & Parts | 1 barrel | www.carburetor-parts.com

Here's what one of the carbs I redid looked like when done:






1100 Autolite

I also wanted to mention that the vent on the top of your fuel-pump was on the oil side of the diaphragm. Usually when you are getting fuel out of that hole you are also pumping fuel into your engine oil. Generally the fuel pump failing this much doesn't pump much longer, but if you've not changed the oil in a while, you might want to consider this.

Here's an adapter I designed to adapt to a weber, which is what I have on my 200 ci power Falcon.





Mock-up before cutting and milling.





Finished adapter





Weber installed.

 

I found it. There was a tiny pinhole next to the hole on the inlet that the point plugs to stop the fuel. Would've acted like a squirt gun. Had to look real close in a real bright light. (Don't ask me how that got there, ugh). Everything went downhill from the time I stripped the intake.

I really appreciate everyone's help. Always preferred avoid carb work but now I messed with one and done just about everything wrong, I'd do it again. (And probably will have to when I replace this one).

 

Just want thank you guys again. I've learned allot and it's always allot of help on this site.
Thanks again.

 

Anytime Fabre glad you found the problem.

 

Does anyone know what that big spring in between the valve cover and carb is called, mine broke.

 

Throttle return spring, it just makes sure the carb linkage returns to idle when you let off the gas pedal.

I tried to edit earlier, when I got a better look at the pic! I think that is for the transmission kickdown lever, it keeps the lever up until near full throttle.

 

You may have already figured this out, but the power control valve on your carb is incorrect. It actually requires a spark control valve, because it's a matched set with the Load O Matic distributor.