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2004 6.0 coolant issues

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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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2004 6.0 coolant issues

Hey Guys I have a 2004 250 thats giving me coolant issues
Has headstuds and egr delete already,new injectors and injector pump .Was driving home one night and turned defroster on and she started to over heat. Cooled her down got home and parked her.Next day my mechanic came over and changed thermostat,took her for a 10 mile drive and no over heat.I came out next day and saw some coolant on ground ,called him and took it down to shop(overheated on way 7 miles from my house). He figured it was head gaskets.Rather then me paying him 95$ and hour to diagnose ,I got her back home (did not over heat this time) with no codes poipping up on my tuner or his computer

so issue started when i turned on heater ,coolant coming out of cap,coolant spraying inside motor when heater is on ,radiator heat is not consistent all the way through
Im not good at this and deff should have never bought a 6.0 any help before i take it back and pay out the ***
and sorry i am all over the place ..frustration is just gotten to me with this
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by johnbeers08204
Hey Guys I have a 2004 250 thats giving me coolant issues
Has headstuds and egr delete already,new injectors and injector pump .Was driving home one night and turned defroster on and she started to over heat. Cooled her down got home and parked her.Next day my mechanic came over and changed thermostat,took her for a 10 mile drive and no over heat.I came out next day and saw some coolant on ground ,called him and took it down to shop(overheated on way 7 miles from my house). He figured it was head gaskets.Rather then me paying him 95$ and hour to diagnose ,I got her back home (did not over heat this time) with no codes poipping up on my tuner or his computer

so issue started when i turned on heater ,coolant coming out of cap,coolant spraying inside motor when heater is on ,radiator heat is not consistent all the way through
Im not good at this and deff should have never bought a 6.0 any help before i take it back and pay out the ***
and sorry i am all over the place ..frustration is just gotten to me with this
Was the degas bottle overfilled? Never fill it past the minimum mark that is molded into the degas bottle. I would make sure the level in the degas bottle is correct and buy a new degas bottle cap and see if it pukes again.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Are you going by the stock gauge on the dash or some other method to figure out the engine is overheating? They're not very acturate is the reason I ask.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang_309
Was the degas bottle overfilled? Never fill it past the minimum mark that is molded into the degas bottle. I would make sure the level in the degas bottle is correct and buy a new degas bottle cap and see if it pukes again.
will get a new cap and check tomorrow
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zhilton
Are you going by the stock gauge on the dash or some other method to figure out the engine is overheating? They're not very acturate is the reason I ask.
the stock guage was up alarm going off and coolant coming out of somewhere. thermostat was dry and stuck and looked a little burnt up
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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thanks for all the help so far guys
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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My first thought is your coolant sensor is shot...thus sending a false alarm to the dash cluster. But if it's puking coolant, and it's not over filled (above the minimum line)...you've got something else going on. Is the EGR valve still plugged in? Even if you've deleted the cooler, you still need to keep the valve in place so that the PCM will spool the radiator fan. And do you have an early or late '04? What is the build date listed on the VIN sticker on the driver's side door jamb?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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What kind of egr delete did you install?

Did you use OEM head gaskets or aftermarket?

You need a gauge system where you can watch actual oil and coolant temps. I would also install a degas bottle pressure gauge.

Any codes?

What does the coolant look like in the degas bottle - any solids or coagulated material? With the engine running can you see the coolant recirculating through the small upper hoses back into the degas bottle? As mentioned above, you need to determine if your fan is operational.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
What kind of egr delete did you install?

Did you use OEM head gaskets or aftermarket?

You need a gauge system where you can watch actual oil and coolant temps. I would also install a degas bottle pressure gauge.

Any codes?

What does the coolant look like in the degas bottle - any solids or coagulated material? With the engine running can you see the coolant recirculating through the small upper hoses back into the degas bottle? As mentioned above, you need to determine if your fan is operational.
I did not do the work it was done when i purchased the truck .all i know is headstuds are apr
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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well it ended up being head gaskets ,took it to a ford diesel mechanic
.which gaskets do you recommend and what else should be replaced while motor is open
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 01:10 PM
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Personally, I like OEM gaskets; it's the orginal TTY bolts that are the problem for the head gaskets. If it's got ARP headstuds...you really need to make sure your heads are flat; that's the only way I can think of ARP's blowing a headgasket. Or someone screwed up the install...either way someone screwed up when they went through the time, material & effort to install the head studs. I'm sure the Ford Tech knows this, but it wouldn't hurt to ask him/her if they checked to make sure the heads are flat. Might get lucky and they can machine it out...if they're not flat.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Pasadena diesel told me they would be crazy to use anything but oem gaskets after the bad batch of black onyx gaskets screwed a lot of people up a couple years ago. Take that for what it's worth I guess but they seemed to know their ****. I feel like people do studs as cheap as possible (like threading them in after the hg is already blown) then try to sell em as studded when the problems haven't been fixed.
 
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