When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It does work fine, just like I told you.
.. but it doesn't have the little locking tab.
Some people want everything 'stock'.
I know there's a new vendor out there with the harness made up for a reasonable price (unlike some other vendors I've mentioned in other threads)
I've seen the pre made harnesses, probably worth the money. I had a really hard time getting the connector on the tab and it doesn't want to come back out easily. I saw them on eBay for less than $10
Yea, Well 'F' PA 'Reformance', Power'slave' and 'Painful' Performance too...
I wish RJM had kept it together.
They sold great product at a fair price.
Here's one for ~$15 from a 100% positive feedback seller.
(they've sold over 400 of them, so it must be right)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-3G-Alternator-Conversion-Harness-Connector-/230751885086?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9e2571e&vxp=mtr
It is a really simple circuit and an easy upgrade to your charging system.
You may be amazed how fast your fan blows and bright your lights can be.
Do you have a charge warning lamp in your cluster?
That should feed the green wire of the regulator plug.
Run a 3/8-16 tap into the adjuster ear so you can reuse the bolt you already have.
The 8mm metric threaded hole should be fine for anything but a bottoming tap.
The green wire needs key on power in run.
If you put a bulb in the circuit it will light, until the alternator turns, producing power.
When that happens the voltage on each side of the filament will be equal and the light goes out because there is no potential.
Well the truck is a 1947 half ton. I know I post over here a lot, but that's because of the engine/tranny/axles.
I have the original 47 gauges, which would be great to use. I think its a possibility, I just need to put some reducers in since they are 6v. Also I will have to figure out the fuel sending unit and voltmeter.
If I can't get all of those to work then I will just purchase newer gauges and use a plasma cutter to make a custom dash plate to make them "fit" aesthetically.
After I get the engine together the next step will be to take the body off, get the engine, tranny, driveshaft, rearend together, move gas tank, run lines, etc.
Then I have a crap load of body work to do and interior work to round it out.
I don't have one yet, but will let you know when I get it started.
I have a bunch of pictures from when I started to now. When I get to work on the drivetrain I will start a thread and continue to update it.
I appreciate the interest. Its going to be a fun/difficult build. Especially since I am not an expert mechanic/body man. I do have a little experience but this is by far the largest task I have taken on.
FWIW the tapped bolt hole on mine was an 11MM. I have a multitude of metric bolts from when my dad worked for Subaru, he did a lot of A/C work on those piles of crap and they always came with new hardware, and he kept the old hardware. Comes in handy once in a while.
On the gauges, check to see if they are thermal, like those in these 80-86 trucks. If so just use one of the voltage regulators like outlined here and I'll bet they'll work.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.