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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

351w Alternator

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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 07:46 PM
  #31  
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Here's some pictures of mine.



The 125 AMG fuse and the bussman fuse holder going to the battery side of the starter relay.


 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
It does work fine, just like I told you.
.. but it doesn't have the little locking tab.

Some people want everything 'stock'.

I know there's a new vendor out there with the harness made up for a reasonable price (unlike some other vendors I've mentioned in other threads)
I've seen the pre made harnesses, probably worth the money. I had a really hard time getting the connector on the tab and it doesn't want to come back out easily. I saw them on eBay for less than $10
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #33  
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Yea, Well 'F' PA 'Reformance', Power'slave' and 'Painful' Performance too...

I wish RJM had kept it together.
They sold great product at a fair price.

Here's one for ~$15 from a 100% positive feedback seller.
(they've sold over 400 of them, so it must be right)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-3G-Alternator-Conversion-Harness-Connector-/230751885086?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9e2571e&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:07 PM
  #34  
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Thanks guys. I am about to order the alternator and the connectors from ebay.

I really appreciate it.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:13 PM
  #35  
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Let us know if you run into any trouble.

It is a really simple circuit and an easy upgrade to your charging system.
You may be amazed how fast your fan blows and bright your lights can be.

Do you have a charge warning lamp in your cluster?
That should feed the green wire of the regulator plug.

Run a 3/8-16 tap into the adjuster ear so you can reuse the bolt you already have.
The 8mm metric threaded hole should be fine for anything but a bottoming tap.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:33 PM
  #36  
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well, I don't even have a cluster yet. I am probably going to be buying entirely new gauges.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #37  
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The green wire needs key on power in run.
If you put a bulb in the circuit it will light, until the alternator turns, producing power.
When that happens the voltage on each side of the filament will be equal and the light goes out because there is no potential.

Really looking forward to your build thread!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:52 PM
  #38  
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Well the truck is a 1947 half ton. I know I post over here a lot, but that's because of the engine/tranny/axles.

I have the original 47 gauges, which would be great to use. I think its a possibility, I just need to put some reducers in since they are 6v. Also I will have to figure out the fuel sending unit and voltmeter.

If I can't get all of those to work then I will just purchase newer gauges and use a plasma cutter to make a custom dash plate to make them "fit" aesthetically.

After I get the engine together the next step will be to take the body off, get the engine, tranny, driveshaft, rearend together, move gas tank, run lines, etc.

Then I have a crap load of body work to do and interior work to round it out.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #39  
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If you have a thread going in the '47 forum could you post a link here?

I'd love to subscribe.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #40  
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I don't have one yet, but will let you know when I get it started.

I have a bunch of pictures from when I started to now. When I get to work on the drivetrain I will start a thread and continue to update it.

I appreciate the interest. Its going to be a fun/difficult build. Especially since I am not an expert mechanic/body man. I do have a little experience but this is by far the largest task I have taken on.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #41  
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FWIW the tapped bolt hole on mine was an 11MM. I have a multitude of metric bolts from when my dad worked for Subaru, he did a lot of A/C work on those piles of crap and they always came with new hardware, and he kept the old hardware. Comes in handy once in a while.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #42  
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If its 11mm, probably best to just helicoil it to 3/8-16.
A metric fastener doesn't belong on a '47 Ford.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #43  
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Probably not possible, there wasn't much meat left around the threads on mine.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 03:33 PM
  #44  
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1947 was my favorite year.

On the gauges, check to see if they are thermal, like those in these 80-86 trucks. If so just use one of the voltage regulators like outlined here and I'll bet they'll work.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #45  
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Really Matthew?!?!

My Taurus alternator was plenty thick
 
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