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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 07:59 AM
  #1  
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plug in?

What do you guys do when there is no plug in available to use in this cold weather?

I live in an apartment building and can't exactly run an extension cord from the third floor.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 08:37 AM
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if your glow plugs are working properly there is no need to plug in other than for faster warmup. .
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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If you have a good GP system then you can get it to start without plugging in. however the benifits to plugging truck in are it starts quicker, warms up quicker, and the oil moves to critical components faster (warm oil is more fluid than cold oil)
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
if your glow plugs are working properly there is no need to plug in other than for faster warmup. .

I am new diesel, so that makes sense.... I think I need to visit the glow plug system and possibly the injectors too.

She is hard to start, even with cycling the key 3 times, plus I get a white smoke at start up that goes away once she warms up.

The sad part is I have dumped $3,000 into her already...

fuel tank, shocks, 4" turbo back exhaust, all 6 tires, front wheel bearing, steering box, pitman arm, belt, and belt tensioner pulley.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 1994F2507.3L
...and the oil moves to critical components faster (warm oil is more fluid than cold oil)
This is the biggie. The primary purpose served by the block heater is engine longevity, since cold starting is when the majority of engine wear occurs. But as said, good batteries, a properly working glow plug system, a good starter and clean winter fuel are all you need just to get it started. Keep in mind that the glow plugs stay running long after the WTS light goes out. So when you can't plug it in, and it's below, say, 20F, just leave the key in the RUN position an extra 10 seconds or so before tripping it over to START.

So are you parking in a lot next to the building, or on the street? If the former, it might not be unreasonable to drop an extension cord down from the third floor. A 50-foot 12-gauge cord would have plenty of capacity, provided the circuit you plug it into could handle 1000 watts. Or talk to the building manager, see if there's an outside outlet you could get access to, for a fair "rent". Assure him you'll put it on a timer, three hours, so (assuming 15 cents / kWh) about 50 cents per day. Offer, say, twice that ($30 / month); it would be worth it.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
This is the biggie. The primary purpose served by the block heater is engine longevity, since cold starting is when the majority of engine wear occurs. But as said, good batteries, a properly working glow plug system, a good starter and clean winter fuel are all you need just to get it started. Keep in mind that the glow plugs stay running long after the WTS light goes out. So when you can't plug it in, and it's below, say, 20F, just leave the key in the RUN position an extra 10 seconds or so before tripping it over to START.

So are you parking in a lot next to the building, or on the street? If the former, it might not be unreasonable to drop an extension cord down from the third floor. A 50-foot 12-gauge cord would have plenty of capacity, provided the circuit you plug it into could handle 1000 watts. Or talk to the building manager, see if there's an outside outlet you could get access to, for a fair "rent". Assure him you'll put it on a timer, three hours, so (assuming 15 cents / kWh) about 50 cents per day. Offer, say, twice that ($30 / month); it would be worth it.
I have left the key on for up to a minute inbetween cycles...So I do believe its going to need more work gp and injectors. I have though about starting my car...and using my power inverter to plug the truck in...but thats borderline to redneck for me...

I am in a lot next to the building but my apartment is on the back side... it would be atleast a 200 foot run to the truck. I am not sure if their "maintenance" building has power...I have thought about asking though.

I guess its time to diagnose which gp's aren't working and get that fixed next...
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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I would replace all 8 GPs. They are $8-9 each at riffraff IIRC. Also inspect the GP/injector wiring harnesses.


Do you have a 1000W inverter? That's the power consumption of the block heater.
How cold does it get where you live? What weight oil are you running?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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For no reason use autolite glow plugs!!!! Ford or beru only!!!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cowmilker08
I would replace all 8 GPs. They are $8-9 each at riffraff IIRC. Also inspect the GP/injector wiring harnesses.


Do you have a 1000W inverter? That's the power consumption of the block heater.
How cold does it get where you live? What weight oil are you running?
I have a 1250w inverter...

In January and february it gets down to the 0 degree range for about three weeks...yesterday, today and tomorrow are single digits up to mid 20's outside cincinnati.

I have no idea on the oil weight, I would have to look at the sticker that firestone put on my windshield 2 weeks ago. That when they changed the oil last while they were putting new tires on this tank of a truck.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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You can use a portable booster pac to plug The block heater in. Set it in the cab or tool box so noone takes it though.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by stainlessstroker95
You can use a portable booster pac to plug The block heater in. Set it in the cab or tool box so noone takes it though.
That would run a 1000 watt load on a 1250 watt inverter for about 10 minutes, maybe 15. There's no free lunch; a 1000 watt load for three hours is 3 kilowatt-hours, mathematically, and you need a significant energy store for that. The OP's best bet is some sort of, er, mutually beneficial relationship (ie bribe) with the management to use power from the maintenance shed, if available.
 
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