Brake Issue
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Brake Issue
I replaced the front and rear rotors and pads on my 2008 F150 Screw 4x4.
The back passenger brake then starts to grab after a short awhile.
The rotor is very hot compared to the rest of the rotors.
I replaced the emergency brake pads and hardware and backed them both right off.
I removed everything and greased the sliders with high temp silicone, thinking the caliper was binding.
Still sticking....the caliper moves freely (in that it pushes back no problem with a c-clamp.
I even had them look at it at my local mechanic. They test drove it (twice) and couldn't find anything wrong!! Ugh!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The back passenger brake then starts to grab after a short awhile.
The rotor is very hot compared to the rest of the rotors.
I replaced the emergency brake pads and hardware and backed them both right off.
I removed everything and greased the sliders with high temp silicone, thinking the caliper was binding.
Still sticking....the caliper moves freely (in that it pushes back no problem with a c-clamp.
I even had them look at it at my local mechanic. They test drove it (twice) and couldn't find anything wrong!! Ugh!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
The pins are free on both sides...I originally used suspension grease on them, but decided after all the trouble I'm having (and the little trouble it takes) to remove them, clean them up, and apply high temp brake lube.
With regard to the caliper, does anyone know if these are serviceable?
The older style used to have solid metal pistons, but I believe the newer ones are made from hardened plastic (phenolic).
Regarding the hose....the line looks fine. Its not kinked at all...could it still be a problem?
With regard to the caliper, does anyone know if these are serviceable?
The older style used to have solid metal pistons, but I believe the newer ones are made from hardened plastic (phenolic).
Regarding the hose....the line looks fine. Its not kinked at all...could it still be a problem?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 2
From: Chico,CA.
I don't think you can buy rebuild kits for the calipers anymore. Good luck with the hoses but I think a caliper is going to solve the problem. Also, I think most newer calipers have ceramic coated pistons which have a plastic-like appearance and feel. They would have to be some type of metal due to the temperatures involved.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
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From: Ontario
Hmmmmm....interesting!
Sure wish they'd leave well enough alone, but then again that's how they make the $$$ I guess.
Thanks again for the help! Greatly appreciated!
Sure wish they'd leave well enough alone, but then again that's how they make the $$$ I guess.
Thanks again for the help! Greatly appreciated!
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Just to update on my success.....I replaced both rear hoses...one of the easiest jobs I've done! The old parts came off easy and the new ones went on even easier.
Bled the brakes out....and problem solved....for about a day!!!
Repalced the calipers on both sides (getting to be an expert at this now!)
Problem completely solved! Haven't had an issue since changing the calipers.
It's been about two weeks now and all good to go.
Many thanks for the help here fellas.
Cheers
Bled the brakes out....and problem solved....for about a day!!!
Repalced the calipers on both sides (getting to be an expert at this now!)
Problem completely solved! Haven't had an issue since changing the calipers.
It's been about two weeks now and all good to go.
Many thanks for the help here fellas.
Cheers
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,859
Likes: 55
From: Middleville, MI
THANK you for following up, i think i am currently having the same issue:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ooks-good.html
here i was thinking about doing hoses first.. maybe i'll go straight for the caliper (can get it for $30 anyways).
reps sent for the follow up!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ooks-good.html
here i was thinking about doing hoses first.. maybe i'll go straight for the caliper (can get it for $30 anyways).
reps sent for the follow up!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,859
Likes: 55
From: Middleville, MI
finally replaced my caliper over the weekend and so far it seems to have fixed the problem.
what is the pedal supposed to feel like on these trucks? the brakes work well and the pedal seems to feel fine, but if i keep pressure on it it seems like it goes down slowly still. seem right?
what is the pedal supposed to feel like on these trucks? the brakes work well and the pedal seems to feel fine, but if i keep pressure on it it seems like it goes down slowly still. seem right?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 585
Likes: 2
From: Willis, Texas
bbender,
sounds like you either have air in the system or a possible master cylinder issue with internal bypass. give the system a good bleed starting at the back right corner and work your way up. if that doesn't fix it then probably going to be the master cylinder.
sounds like you either have air in the system or a possible master cylinder issue with internal bypass. give the system a good bleed starting at the back right corner and work your way up. if that doesn't fix it then probably going to be the master cylinder.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: mississauga ont.
finally replaced my caliper over the weekend and so far it seems to have fixed the problem.
what is the pedal supposed to feel like on these trucks? the brakes work well and the pedal seems to feel fine, but if i keep pressure on it it seems like it goes down slowly still. seem right?
what is the pedal supposed to feel like on these trucks? the brakes work well and the pedal seems to feel fine, but if i keep pressure on it it seems like it goes down slowly still. seem right?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 799
Likes: 13
From: East L.A.
...I don't believe "Ford" says that. Maybe one idiot you talked at a Ford place said so...
After initial brake pressure is applied, the resistance should remain pretty constant (not continuing to depress/sink). That would indicate air in the system or a faulty master cylinder or brake booster, etc. As previously pointed out above.
After initial brake pressure is applied, the resistance should remain pretty constant (not continuing to depress/sink). That would indicate air in the system or a faulty master cylinder or brake booster, etc. As previously pointed out above.