It doesn't look like much at the moment, but I'm starting to build a bed out of what I've got...thinking of a headache rack to help carry canoes/kayaks/long pieces of lumber. Wife wants it kept rustic w/bark, but I'm trying to convince her of the longevity of a varnished piece of wood, especially on a farm/hunting truck. Should I do top of headache rack out of cedar log to match uprights or should I use a 2-3" thick arched piece of cherry or cedar for the top? I also can't make up my mind as to whether the bed should come from very edge of cab to very edge of cab, or should it be recessed a bit to show off tire and make it a bit more rough and sporty looking? I've only rough cut the deck members, still have to plane them down a good bit. Chestnut floor boards going to be mounted to oak logs. More to come as I get some time in the shop. Any ideas fully appreciated

 

Or should I do just a "back board" up to the back glass of 1" chestnut?

 

cool project, i would go high so i could carry 20ft boards from back to front.

 

Neat project, won't be trying to give you any ideas but if you go to Katy p loses her box page 1 post 7 youl'l see some dimension pics. That deck is 78" wide, go further and youl'l find some more pics that are closer to completion. Wheel wells, measure from the top of your axle to the bottom of your bump stop, add an inch and transfer that measurement to the top of your wheels, that height is your wheel clearance. Wood decks are light and the weight won't really affect your center of gravity so you should have no problems adding height to your deck subframe and you can disguise it nicely with skirting. Should be nice when your done, to bad them logs weren't totem poles.

 

Well here is an idea....woody. lol Better drill them bottom mount logs and use steel plates to make it secure. Also better seal it, because it will eventually dry out, then soak up the rain and then rot out. I would hate to see it fall into your nice cab. If you have to use the cross logs, rip the top edge flat to keep your decking planks flat.

If you just have to use the log uprights, rip them and leave the bark side out. Our use smaller diameter logs for your uprights.

I'd make a steel frame like a regular flat bed and use lumber over lays. Make since? And it would be safer, probably more sturdy and more legal.

Ideas. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ck-up-bed.html

 

If you can find it use Larch or Tamarac .. It will outlast most lumber in this application and rarely cups .. I put it on my flatbed trailer 20 yrs. ago and it sits in the weather 24/7 shows no sign of rot .. I used it on our house decks also .. It's a beautiful wood .. I purchased it a local Amish saw mill ..

 

Thanks for the link to the wheel clearance dimensions. Was going to measure, you just made my work easy! I will put a tall headache rack up to transport long lumber, but as suggested by you guys, probably find a smaller log to do so. Crossmember logs that will rest on frame will be sealed, notched, and bolted to some angle brackets that I'll weld onto the sides of the frame. Might weld a couple of metal runners underneath the bed to help facilitate strapping loads down to the bed...I like the lattice that some make with a couple of wooden blocks before their outter skirt of the bed, but I don't have too much faith in a heavy load being secured to them.

I did the totem pole idea! Maybe once I get the truck on the road, I'll look into starting that! The Cedar uprights will be rabbeted to receive 1" chestnut boards for a cab protector that extends up to the window. The Chestnut cab protector will extend down to the frame, tying in the main crossmember to the bed to the headache upright.
Parts of me wish I could do a metal frame and then drop the boards in, but I'm saving every bit of metal for a bbq trailer build later on.
Tamarac and Larch are great ideas...haven't thought of them. Maybe next bed. This bed is being built by what I have on hand, and the chestnut was cut in ~1940, so I know its good and seasoned....If Chestnut split rail fences are still going from many moons ago, then I feel I should have some luck! May have to get some Tamarac for the house though!!

Pine 8x6's and Oak 3x8 are also an option for the rack...(have 'em out back) been contemplating a long time on timber framing headache rack, but I don't know if I want it to look that polished..it is pretty dang sweet though.

 

This hasn't been brought up yet but if you edge plane and TnG your deck boards you won't have any problems with board cupping or rotting out from the bottom where they join. My dump truck had this done when the box was made. 34 years later when I cut up the deck the boards that were under the plate steel deck had no signs of rot. I noticed that you got the equipment to do this which is why I bring it up.

 

I'm jointing and planing the decking members today. Got the shop stove warming up as we speak. Hadn't really thought about putting a tongue and groove edge...that would be sweet! (Just been trying to do quick and simple before, but often creativity gets in the way) May have to play with the stacked dado set and do the cut in several runs..decking boards are about 2.75" thick. Can go thinner, but why waste wood into sawdust? Thanks for the motivation!!

 

Sharp truck, shop full of woodworking equipment. For the total amount of work that's needed to build a good looking deck to compliment the truck it's going on, why short cut the first step. I used to buy and sell furniture, quality wood working lasted and never went out of style. That's why we've got antiques. like the canoe

 

Roger that! Was just thinking of putting a deck on the bed so I could get it out on the road as "finished for now" so I can get on with making a bunch of Christmas Gifts. But now that you have me thinking tongue and groove, I'll just have to wait a bit longer to get her on the road.

One other reason I had not planned on tongue and groove was the ease of access to the fuel tank sending unit if just unbolting decking board. But T&G, or spline w/breadboard ends would make it easier to build an access hatch, kind of like for 5th wheel since its all solid.
My spare tire keeper is long gone, don't know if I'll make a place for it hanging on the side of the bed or go to the junk yard for another spare tire assembly to keep it under the bed.
I built that canoe so I could take to the rivers in good style and function, I best do the same to the truck so I can take the canoe to the rivers in good style and function.

 

Bought a cedar strip canoe from a buddy of mine and his brother years ago, twas a total snit show but I only gave them gas money for it. Had no ribs or seats, just cedar strips and fibre glass. Put it in the warehouse for show only thinking I might rent it to a production company for a movie or tv show. Some fool bought it and I thought it was fully explained that it wasn't meant for anything rougher than looking at. Idiot put in Silver Hope river and almost drowned himself. Sorry for putting ideas in your head and making you more work but once it's done it's done, I've got piano hinges and latches coming out of my ying yang and it's 6 months before I need them.

 

Any updates?

I was Googling around when I found this and so I drug up the thread.. shoot me..

Privateer, I should a known you would have been in on this one

 

I'm here, I'm there, I'm everywhere, that's why I'm evil, wicked, mean and nasty. Sometimes these projects have 2 start ups, the first one lets you know that there is going to be a snit load of work to do to get everything the way you want it. The second start up is the one where you realize it,s going to take a month to do everything you want, problem is, that month is all sundays it seems. It's amazing how many 5 day turn arounds take 10 days to 2 weeks for me.

 

Looks great! Good job!