Clutch Engagement Issues
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Clutch Engagement Issues
Hi Guys,
Having trouble finding out this issue.
Zf5 trans. Basically, I have to put my foot all the way to the floor to shift most of the time and even then I have to clutch a couple of times to get it to go into gear. Usually the worst with 1st gear from a stop. Rolling and up/downshifting seems ok.
I have:
Checked Fluid in Master
Rebuilt Pedal Box with parts from Ford
Clutch Master Rod is not eggholed/ovaled (went ahead and did tubing/drill stop collar mod).
Have not checked fork travel.
No adjustment on master push rod correct?
My last ideas are that Slave/Master is wearing out, clutch fork/pivot ball is wearing out.
Lastly, in the event I have to go back into the pedal box, what is the best grease to use?
Having trouble finding out this issue.
Zf5 trans. Basically, I have to put my foot all the way to the floor to shift most of the time and even then I have to clutch a couple of times to get it to go into gear. Usually the worst with 1st gear from a stop. Rolling and up/downshifting seems ok.
I have:
Checked Fluid in Master
Rebuilt Pedal Box with parts from Ford
Clutch Master Rod is not eggholed/ovaled (went ahead and did tubing/drill stop collar mod).
Have not checked fork travel.
No adjustment on master push rod correct?
My last ideas are that Slave/Master is wearing out, clutch fork/pivot ball is wearing out.
Lastly, in the event I have to go back into the pedal box, what is the best grease to use?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
START by measuring fork travel. That will narrow down whether the problem is "upstream" (pedal box, pushrod, hydraulics, etc) or "downstream" (fork, pressure plate, TOB, etc).
Correct - no adjustment for the pushrod itself. If you sense that there's "slop" at the top of the travel, before the pushrod actually engages the master, you can remove the arm that engages the pushrod from the pedal shaft and "re-clock" it -- rotate it counter-clockwise a bit and re-install. The arm is soft metal and the splines on the shaft just dig into it. You'll have to use two screwdrivers and/or crowbars, prying at opposite sides of it, to get it loose after you loosen the nut on the shaft.
Correct - no adjustment for the pushrod itself. If you sense that there's "slop" at the top of the travel, before the pushrod actually engages the master, you can remove the arm that engages the pushrod from the pedal shaft and "re-clock" it -- rotate it counter-clockwise a bit and re-install. The arm is soft metal and the splines on the shaft just dig into it. You'll have to use two screwdrivers and/or crowbars, prying at opposite sides of it, to get it loose after you loosen the nut on the shaft.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
START by measuring fork travel. That will narrow down whether the problem is "upstream" (pedal box, pushrod, hydraulics, etc) or "downstream" (fork, pressure plate, TOB, etc).
Correct - no adjustment for the pushrod itself. If you sense that there's "slop" at the top of the travel, before the pushrod actually engages the master, you can remove the arm that engages the pushrod from the pedal shaft and "re-clock" it -- rotate it counter-clockwise a bit and re-install. The arm is soft metal and the splines on the shaft just dig into it. You'll have to use two screwdrivers and/or crowbars, prying at opposite sides of it, to get it loose after you loosen the nut on the shaft.
Correct - no adjustment for the pushrod itself. If you sense that there's "slop" at the top of the travel, before the pushrod actually engages the master, you can remove the arm that engages the pushrod from the pedal shaft and "re-clock" it -- rotate it counter-clockwise a bit and re-install. The arm is soft metal and the splines on the shaft just dig into it. You'll have to use two screwdrivers and/or crowbars, prying at opposite sides of it, to get it loose after you loosen the nut on the shaft.
Is the fork boot and the inspection cover the only ways to get a look at the main shaft?
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