ZDDP additive
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 871
Likes: 6
From: Orcas Island, WA
Bingo. It's all about the ratios.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 369
Likes: 16
From: Pleasant Grove, Alabama
I switched the 455 in my GTO to a roller cam/lifters. Bingo, no more worries about ZDDP.
Read this http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836
Delo 15w-40, readily and cheaply available contains all the ZDDP a healthy engine needs. To much ZDDP is as bad or worse than not enough.
Read this http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836
Delo 15w-40, readily and cheaply available contains all the ZDDP a healthy engine needs. To much ZDDP is as bad or worse than not enough.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
Valvoline VR1 is about the best racing oil that is reasonably priced, no additive needed. Brad Penn, stay far away from that junk, it is the worst oil out there. One thing about additives, be careful just what kind of oil you put them in as it doesn't mix well with some. Check out bob is the oil guy, best web site on oil.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 537
Likes: 17
From: Linden USA
Valvoline VR1 is about the best racing oil that is reasonably priced, no additive needed. Brad Penn, stay far away from that junk, it is the worst oil out there. One thing about additives, be careful just what kind of oil you put them in as it doesn't mix well with some. Check out bob is the oil guy, best web site on oil.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,099
Likes: 380
From: Southern California
Let me start with this....
To reduce cat converter contamination, the ZDDP in ALL oils was reduced from around 2000 ppm to about 700 ppm (within the last 18 months if you include diesels), which the engineers advise this is plenty for any engine......but this reduction has paralleled with the increase of flat tappt cam failures, valve tick, etc.
The one thing that the aftermarket cam mfgs & machinists agree upon is engines need about 1400 ppm of ZDDP, the newer engines (modulars) with cats, about 1000 ppm. While the oil companies disagree, they recently added another additive to the oils as a "wear reducer" (the name escapes me now).
With regards to syn vs non-syn oils, today, all oils are are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic”:
Synthetic Motor Oil
and was confirmed through legal proceedings:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/...s-Day-in-Court
Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.
With regards to "different Oil Brands", this is a must read publication IMHO,
Oil Publication:
Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
“Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.”
“What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products"
Read more: Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
Read more: Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
After discussing this in detail with Ron Eskenderian (yes, Isky Racing Cams), and I add 1/3 of a bottle to my mod motors as well (1997 Cougar Sport 4.6 & 2006 Lincoln Mark LT 5.4)- IIRR it is a 9 oz bottle
To reduce cat converter contamination, the ZDDP in ALL oils was reduced from around 2000 ppm to about 700 ppm (within the last 18 months if you include diesels), which the engineers advise this is plenty for any engine......but this reduction has paralleled with the increase of flat tappt cam failures, valve tick, etc.
The one thing that the aftermarket cam mfgs & machinists agree upon is engines need about 1400 ppm of ZDDP, the newer engines (modulars) with cats, about 1000 ppm. While the oil companies disagree, they recently added another additive to the oils as a "wear reducer" (the name escapes me now).
With regards to syn vs non-syn oils, today, all oils are are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic”:
Synthetic Motor Oil
and was confirmed through legal proceedings:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/...s-Day-in-Court
Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.
With regards to "different Oil Brands", this is a must read publication IMHO,
Oil Publication:
Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
“Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.”
“What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products"
Read more: Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
Read more: Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
After discussing this in detail with Ron Eskenderian (yes, Isky Racing Cams), and I add 1/3 of a bottle to my mod motors as well (1997 Cougar Sport 4.6 & 2006 Lincoln Mark LT 5.4)- IIRR it is a 9 oz bottle
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