I've been researching this problem for hours but haven't found anything that helps me figure it out. My situation is this:

I recently bought a 99 E350 V10. When you first start it, it has a rattly noise that you can also hear when driving at around 1800 rpm. It sounds similar to pinging but I'm not getting a CEL and it made no difference running 89 vs. 87.

The van originally came from California (I bring this up because I've read that there might be some difference and a TSB for California model V10s for a rattle issue).

I gave the van to a buddy to do some work on the suspension. He says that the noise is a rod knock. He says he had another mechanic listen to it and that the other mechanic agreed that it is a rod knock. It doesn't sound like that to me, and so far as I've ever known a rod knock is continuous and speeds up and slows down with engine speed. This motor idles quiet and is fairly quiet going down the road, except at around 1800-2500 rpm (no tach in the vehicle to confirm the specific range but I had a code reader connected to it that was giving me tach readings when listening to it at one point). Usually I'll hear the noise right before the engine shifts gears, and if I put the transmission in 2nd it will make this rattle noise at about the same rpm.

It also doesn't sound like an exhaust leak or a valve tappet issue (to me), just based upon having heard those types of noises in other vehicles over the years. I have no prior experience with the v10, though.

I've listened to different videos on youtube about rod noises and other noises and have yet to find anything that is like what I'm hearing.

I haven't been able to verify the 'exhaust flutter' referenced in some posts because I've yet to find a video that clearly illustrates that noise. Same with the transmission inspection plate. What videos I have seen about rattles that are not related to an engine issue, the noise truly sounds like a vibration (e.g., vibrating heat shield) instead of a rattle like what I'm experiencing.

I've also read some about the modular engines having an issue with timing chain tensioners but again, what I've heard on youtube isn't the same as what I'm experiencing. I've also heard that it might be a wrist pin or piston slap, but again, haven't heard what that sounds like in this particular model of engine.

I know it's darn near impossible for any of you in cyberspace to diagnose my particular problem, but it would be useful to get some video of the common problems referenced above so that I can start to eliminate potential issues. Also, for the inspection plate on the transmission, can someone post a photo of the offending plate with sufficient detail to make its location clear? I have an idea but want to be sure.

Anyway, I'm wanting to get some feedback, partially in the hopes that I'll find out that it ISN'T a rod issue and that I don't need to tear down or replace the engine (177k mi, BTW).

Thanks.

 

1800RPM, that usually has something to do with the inherent vibration in the V10.

Check the cover on the bottom of the bellhousing - this is know to cause all sorts of weird noises, and I wouldn't doubt it can sound like a ping - mine always gave me all sorts of problems until I made my own cover with thicker metal.

 

We checked the trans inspection cover. I'm leaning to it being a rod knock. We'll do some more investigation to confirm during the week.

Well, I was going to take and upload video, but apparently I can't operate my video camera feature on my phone. It ended up taking video but not of the problem.

In any event, after listening to it further, we seem to all be in agreement that this is in fact a rod issue. Next is to isolate the offending cylinder and then we'll see if we can change big end bearings. Hoping for the best.

 

How much have you been driving or running it after the noise started, rod noise doesn't last to long after it starts because it fails all the way and becomes very load right before it comes apart.

Denny

 

Cracked flywheel?

 

Is the knock sound coming from the passenger side under the valve cover? I had a similar noise, sounding just like engine knock from a bad rod. Brought it to a mechanic and they felt it was the timing chain or a rod. Once the valve cover was removed, problem was found. It ended up being the PVC oil baffle in the valve cover broke off (its only plastic). The mechanic ended up drilling a hole in the top of the valve cover and screwing it back on. The baffle was bouncing around in there......Been fine since.

 

I had a potentially troubling noise pop up recently----sounded suspiciously like a valve-train issue. Using a long handled tool soon enough I learned it wasn't a mechanical issue at all---high relief.

Turns out the PCV valve itself ---175K miles---was clattering quite a bit louder than I would have ever guessed.

Not saying this is OP's situation but those darned PCV's and their plumbing can create a lot of concern for us Modular Motor owners.

 

A buddy of mine took the van to a buddy of his and they pulled the pan and confirmed that the bearings are shot -- one had nearly spun. He said it looked like someone had been in there recently and replaced the big end bearings, possibly to fix the same problem. They were also concerned it had been run low on oil or that the pickup tube is blocked.

Anyway, looks like I'm going to need a new motor. I'm considering getting one from engineguy.com. 3yr/100k warranty (seems same as Jasper, but the engines cost less). Anybody used these guys before? It just seems to make more sense to buy a remanufactured motor than risk buying a rebuild or used motor.

 

Resurrecting my own thread. I haven't yet done anything because of financial issues. I'm looking forward to the day I can get this van back on the road. As mentioned in the prior post I am considering a remanufactured motor and was hoping to get some user experience on good vs. bad vendors.

Also, it seemed to me that if I am going to replace the motor it makes sense to upgrade to a later motor. The performance improved motor seemed to largely run with all the same ancillaries as the non-pi motor, right? Aside from the intake, is there anything else I need to locate to do this swap? If I get a pi motor from a remanufacturer will I still be charged a core if I send them my non pi motor? Anyone know of a good source in or close to Phoenix where I could get the other bits to do the conversion?

Of course, I'd enjoy the extra power from the 3v motor, but from what I understand that is a far more involved swap that needs the five speed trans, ECU, PCM, etc. Plus so far as I know the 3v was never fitted to the E350, and I imagine the intake and plumbing is different due to the restricted space.

Thanks.