Holy Super Duty
So for ***** and giggles, I figured I'd look around....this is what I've found, let me know what you think and if I'm off base.
First off, 2015 F250 Crew Cabs at my local dealer are like $13,000 off MSRP...holy crap, a lariet or darn close is like 48K. Is it me, are they unloading them, or are these prices normal??
Now, here's where I'm struggling, F250 or F350 and Short or Long Bed. My initial reaction is an F350 with a long bed but is that necessary???
Also, are F350's worth 7-8K more than a 250? Towing is the same but payload is different. Is that JUST the rear springs? Are the frames Different? This is my understanding of differences:
1. The size of the blocks between the rear axle and the rear springs.
2. The GVWR number printed on the B-pillar tag.
3. The number on the badges on the front fenders.
Second is Tagalong or 5th Wheel? 5th wheel seems easier to tow, and I like some of the layouts better, but can I do that with a 250 and shorter bed? If so am I hurting myself?
90% of the time truck will be unloaded and driven the same as a DD (it WON'T be my DD), but you get where I'm going...
LASTLY, do I get a 6.2? It will tow almost anything I want, though not "well", but is it worth the premium for a diesel if its only going to be towing 10% (or less) of time time?? I know MPG etc are better with diesel, but will the increased maint be worth it? Is there more maint? Can a DIYer do most things?
I"m not one to run to a dealership if I can fix myself, but I don't "expect" to have to do anything to a new truck for quite some time. Lead me down a road.
Thanks!!
Links to a few i've seen:
APPLE FORD:
New 2015 Ford Super Duty F-250 Lariat
BOB BELL FORD:
Baltimore, MD 2015 Ford F-250 New Truck Glen Burnie, MD Annapolis, MD Bob Bell Ford/ Hyundai/ Kia | 155007 | 1FT7W2BTXFEA17965
GVWR and rear GAWR is where the rubber hits the road

very easy to get over with even a small trailer...
SO, get a 350 with max gvwr you can (11500 for SRW)
and a wdh if a tt or judicious mounting of the 5er hitch in the bed to distribute the weight properly...
good luck ! it's amazing how quick you can overload a f250 with say 6000 lbs Rear axle rating... especially when the truck weighs 8000 or 9000 lbs !
Not worth that much more. You should be able to find a 350 for little more $$ than a 250.
90% of the time truck will be unloaded and driven the same as a DD (it WON'T be my DD), but you get where I'm going...
LASTLY, do I get a 6.2? It will tow almost anything I want, though not "well", but is it worth the premium for a diesel if its only going to be towing 10% (or less) of time time?? I know MPG etc are better with diesel, but will the increased maint be worth it? Is there more maint? Can a DIYer do most things?
I"m not one to run to a dealership if I can fix myself, but I don't "expect" to have to do anything to a new truck for quite some time. Lead me down a road.
Thanks!!
You will never say "Dammit, I can't close the tailgate with that piece of plywood/bunch of 2x lumber ---- you get the drift (and you have to know I've gone through that pain, SB vs LB).
Also, if you buy an older 5er, you wont have to invest in a more expensive slider hitch with a LB
Watch out for that gross weight. My current truck was way over (700#) with the now gone 5er's pin weight but about right with the new one.
If the 6.2 will pull your desired camper with ease, it's a lot cheaper to buy and maintain then the diesel plus every gas station has less expensive gas but not all have diesel.
GVWR and rear GAWR is where the rubber hits the road

very easy to get over with even a small trailer...
SO, get a 350 with max gvwr you can (11500 for SRW)
and a wdh if a tt or judicious mounting of the 5er hitch in the bed to distribute the weight properly...
good luck ! it's amazing how quick you can overload a f250 with say 6000 lbs Rear axle rating... especially when the truck weighs 8000 or 9000 lbs !
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I will always go for more truck. F350 for sure. Mine is a dually, and while I could have squeaked by with SRW, the dually ultimately cost me less money for more truck. I agree with everyone else on bed size. I have owned one shortbed truck, and will NEVER buy another. The bed space is too valuable to me.
1. The size of the blocks between the rear axle and the rear springs.
2. The GVWR number printed on the B-pillar tag.
3. The number on the badges on the front fenders.
I went diesel. Mine doesn't get a ton of miles, 9500 miles in a year and a half. Hoping to change that when the new fiver gets here. Would a 6.2 work for me--most likely. I can't deal with the crap MPG when I do use it though, that's why I switched to diesel. I started with a 5.4 F150, 11.5 mpg around town, 7.2 with a 7K trailer, highway 16. Went to a (mistake) 07 5.9 Dodge, 14-15 around town, 11-12 towing, 17 empty on the highway. Sold that for my current 6.7 F350 which so far has done around 13 in town 16 highway, 11 towing. Gas might be cheaper, but I can't get over the mileage, and I love the power of the 6.7!
There really isn't "more" maintenance with the diesel, aside from water separator drains and adding DEF. The maintenance does cost more though. I did my oil change myself at 5K, and even at wholesale pricing, I was in it over $100 between oil and filter. I'd say a DIY'er could do the maintenance on both gas or diesel. Much beyond that, either will be at the dealer...
Figure $70 for fuel filters every 15 k to 25k mi plus a $40 air filter.
I went with the xlt 250 as the srw 350 was way out of my price range for the tiny difference on paper. It was also that all the srw 350s in my area were all loaded up useless bling and status symbol junk (nav, camera, platinums, etc, etc).
Way more money on the table if you start looking at xlts and xl.
I say again, figure out what trailer you want, then buy the appropriate truck. I like bumper pull myself, keeps the bed open to haul other stuff.
Long bed or short bed? I say long bed. It's a lot more useful
F-250 or F-350? If your someone who is concerned about ratings, then just get a f-350. If numbers are just numbers, an F-250 will do the same job and still be a personal vehicle. (F-350s must be registered as commercial vehicles in some states) the differences are nill. Even the ford engineers couldn't really say what the difference was other than blocks and ratings.
How many in your family? 2? I'd opt for a extended cab over a crew cab. Saves some weight and length. Plus the A/C and heater will work better.
So for ***** and giggles, I figured I'd look around....this is what I've found, let me know what you think and if I'm off base.
First off, 2015 F250 Crew Cabs at my local dealer are like $13,000 off MSRP...holy crap, a lariet or darn close is like 48K. Is it me, are they unloading them, or are these prices normal??
Now, here's where I'm struggling, F250 or F350 and Short or Long Bed. My initial reaction is an F350 with a long bed but is that necessary???
1. The size of the blocks between the rear axle and the rear springs.
2. The GVWR number printed on the B-pillar tag.
3. The number on the badges on the front fenders.
Second is Tagalong or 5th Wheel? 5th wheel seems easier to tow, and I like some of the layouts better, but can I do that with a 250 and shorter bed? If so am I hurting myself?
90% of the time truck will be unloaded and driven the same as a DD (it WON'T be my DD), but you get where I'm going...
LASTLY, do I get a 6.2? It will tow almost anything I want, though not "well", but is it worth the premium for a diesel if its only going to be towing 10% (or less) of time time?? I know MPG etc are better with diesel, but will the increased maint be worth it? Is there more maint? Can a DIYer do most things?
My next statement is going to come down to the truck itself. Overkill is king when you are hauling a 10k lb trailer down the interstate at 75mph. Personally my trucks are Duallies now. I had never towed with a DRW until a few years back and all I can say is WOW what a difference. The stance and stability of the truck is highly noticeable. I have been hauling a 35' tag along on a windy day and seen the camper swaying behind me due to cross wind with very very little transition into the town vehicle. This causes you to correct less and limit the risk for over correction (Could start a whole new thread on how NOT to tow) So if you want my opinion:
If you are looking for a big camper with tons of room, slideouts, etc then go for a bed hook, but make it a gooseneck and stick it in the bed of a DRW 350.
just my .02
Links to a few i've seen:
APPLE FORD:
New 2015 Ford Super Duty F-250 Lariat
BOB BELL FORD:
Baltimore, MD 2015 Ford F-250 New Truck Glen Burnie, MD Annapolis, MD Bob Bell Ford/ Hyundai/ Kia | 155007 | 1FT7W2BTXFEA17965
Glenn









