Power Brake Conversion
I have located a '65-66 stock power brake setup. Can I use it? If not, how about something off a larger truck or different year?
I'd rather not convert to a dual master cylinder unless there are no other options.
My entire system is fresh but I'm still standing on the pedal like my dad has for years on this same truck. Panic stops are possible but you better have giant muscles. I was hoping all new brakes would help but it didn't.
I do know that factory boosters were available in '65, and I also know that later boosters up to '79 (possibly later) can be easily adapted to '65/'66 trucks - I put a '78 booster on my '66 easily enough.
If you can get a single pot master cylinder properly mated to a booster, then the hard part would be done, I think.
The issues left would be as follows:
1. Set the pushrod length between the pedal and the booster - this will probably take up the most time, and cause the most frustration.
2. Find a vacuum source from the engine
3. Bolt the booster assembly to the firewall
4. Complete other steps normally associated with changing out a master cylinder.
This is how I see your project unfolding, and wish you the best of luck.
John
I wouldn't mind a newer booster if I knew it would work with the older truck. I am concerned the relationship between the pedal rod, booster depth, and master cylinder combo would be mismatched and complicated my efforts to get better brakes.
It's looks like 350's had it as an factory option? So if I can find a '61-'66 350 with power brakes, I may be in luck for a factory engineered setup?
So the chances of finding one is rare I'm guessing... How about bigger trucks and buses? There is a local yard made up of mostly 1960-1972 Ford trucks, so I do have a good selection of the smaller and larger trucks and buses.
Consider the following:
1. Have you replaced all three rubber flexible brake hoses? The two up front and the one in the rear? Over time, they swell up internally and narrow the inside passage. This isn't discernible from the outside, but it swells enough to cause problems. Normally, the swelling usually prevents the fluid from returning back to the master cylinder, which locks up the brakes, so the symptoms are not quite adding up. But if they are more than 10 years old, I would change them out anyway. By the way, this is where I would look first.
2. Have you tried double pumping? If double pumping the brake pedal improves the braking, then I would look at the master cylinder being the problem. Or air still in the system.
3. I know you stated that the entire system is "fresh." I assume the following are done?
Drums turned or replaced
New brake shoes, and adjusted as close as possible to the drums (without dragging the drum)
New or properly rebuilt master cylinder that has been bench bled before installing in the truck
New wheel cylinders
Hope this helps.
John
It doesn't look difficult, but there will be some fabrication and guesswork involved.
I bought this one last year for $150 for my 65 Mustang. I went with power discs instead so Im going to use it on my F100. It looks like I can flip the mounting brackets upside down, drill one new hole and it will fit like a glove. My entire brake system is new and Im not going to swap them out for discs until they need to be replaced.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-66-Ford-Mustang-Power-Brake-Unit-7-Dual-Diaphragm-Booster-Kit-Auto-Trans-/161431002430?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2596099d3e&vxp=mtr
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The only part I didn't buy new was the master cylinder, which was unused but an old stock item. It is an old reman... I didn't rebuild it. Maybe it's suspect?
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Booster had a threaded rod which via coupling allowed me to set the lenght of the supplied rod to the petal.







