Blasted dash/park lights.
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Blasted dash/park lights.
I have an '82 f150. My dash lights and park lights quit working, and I could only make them come on between the contact point of headlights and park lights. I "knew" it was a switch problem, so I replaced the switch. When having the same problem with the new switch, I decided to dig through this site to resolve my problem.
I found a thread that said to check the tan/white wire. I have my entire dash strewn out across my driveway finding the wire to be spliced in to the back of the fuse panel, and completely fried. NO insulation around the wire (burnt off) from the switch, to the burned up 15 amp fuse.
I have replaced the wire completely, have power at the switch, and still only have dash lights in that magic position on the switch. Any ideas?
I found a thread that said to check the tan/white wire. I have my entire dash strewn out across my driveway finding the wire to be spliced in to the back of the fuse panel, and completely fried. NO insulation around the wire (burnt off) from the switch, to the burned up 15 amp fuse.
I have replaced the wire completely, have power at the switch, and still only have dash lights in that magic position on the switch. Any ideas?
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None of my marker lights or rear drive lights are working. I think my brown wire has been burnt through.
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From: Virginia
You still have a problem with your tan/white. It feeds power from a separate fuse like you already know, and goes into the headlight switch. In the headlight switch it splits, one side going through some contacts and then out on the brown wire, and the other side of the split goes to the dimmer inside the switch, and then goes out and back to the fuse box to the fuse for the cluster lights, and then it leaves that fuse and goes to the cluster and dash lights.
Since BOTH the outside running lights AND the dash lights are out, there is still a problem up at the switch with the tan/white.
What you are doing by pulling the switch out halfway is crossing up the contacts inside the switch. The headlight power feed is still good, so when you pull it halfway you are bridging the circuits inside the switch and making the headlight power also feed the running lights.
Since BOTH the outside running lights AND the dash lights are out, there is still a problem up at the switch with the tan/white.
What you are doing by pulling the switch out halfway is crossing up the contacts inside the switch. The headlight power feed is still good, so when you pull it halfway you are bridging the circuits inside the switch and making the headlight power also feed the running lights.
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problem solved
I replaced the entire tan/white wire from the fuse box to the headlight switch. But as for the brown wire...I tried to splice new wire from the headlight switch in to right before the brown wire junction (for lack of better term). I used the clasp type of splice that goes over the wire instead of using a butt connector. It was late, I had to close up and get it drivable, which means I went without tail lights for a week... oops.
Fast forward a week. I took my test light and checked for power to the new brown wire right out of the switch in on position, and it had power. Directly after the clasp in to the existing brown wire there was nothing. I replaced the clasp with a butt splice, and voila, it works!
Hope this helps someone. Good luck with your truck! ;-)
Jason
Fast forward a week. I took my test light and checked for power to the new brown wire right out of the switch in on position, and it had power. Directly after the clasp in to the existing brown wire there was nothing. I replaced the clasp with a butt splice, and voila, it works!
Hope this helps someone. Good luck with your truck! ;-)
Jason
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From: Houston
I had this same exact problem, I replaced my headlight switch but while doing so I dont know if one of the wires pulled out of the plastic plug before hand or if it was done when I was replacing the headlight switch.
Mine went bad to the point that I had headlights and dome light but no interior lights, and no marker, tail lights, license plate lights, but I had turn signals and brake lights. Then if I would pull the switch out all the way to headlights and push in just a hair I could get dash lights and exterior lights along with headlights.
I replaced my switch and replug that wire that pulled out of the connector back in and been working ever since.
Mine went bad to the point that I had headlights and dome light but no interior lights, and no marker, tail lights, license plate lights, but I had turn signals and brake lights. Then if I would pull the switch out all the way to headlights and push in just a hair I could get dash lights and exterior lights along with headlights.
I replaced my switch and replug that wire that pulled out of the connector back in and been working ever since.
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