When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Having a few problems with the new motor I built for My Grandpa. Everything is running great mechanics wise. The two problems I'm having are as follows: Engine stalls out if I bring the truck from says 40mph to a fast stop. Kinda lost here. I'd guess the Idle Bypass Valve, but I have no "Check Engine" light.
Next, since finishing the motor install, all his dash gauges are acting up. The front tank was full, but the gauge reads anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 tank. I've recheck all the grounds, and everything checks out. Definitely lost here.
Final problem of the day. Truck runs great from 2k rpm to about 4k rpm, but occasionaly hesitates from 1200 to 2k rpm. Idle is good for the most part except the above stalling.
Motor was a stock rebuild inside. Heads rebuilt stock and shaved .006, and bumps smoothed out. Cam is Crane, 206/212 duration and .530 lift. All stock EFI, manifolds, still speed density, and shorties with stock single exhaust. Stock dizzy set to 16 deg. advance.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
If you don't already have a Chilton or Haynes, get one. Second, using the descriptions in the manual;
Check fuel pressure
Check manifold vacuum at idle at the top of the intake manifold, pull the cap off the extra 5/16 nipple to check it (must be 750 to 850 rpm)
Pull the codes
Write back and tell us what you find.
Regards, Robert.
Edit: why are you advanced past 10deg?
Last edited by Robert at the Beach; Jul 16, 2003 at 08:30 PM.
After my ordeal of having it retarded about 6 deg at start up. I set the advance at 10deg for the initial break-in. After that was done and about 40 miles were logged in, I bumper it up until she pinged and backed it down a couple of deg.
I'll get the readings this weekend. I have to go out of town tomorrow until then. I just wanted to get some idea rollin before I left.
Your pcm will advance your timing according to your knock sensor. For your feedback control loop system to operate correctly, the timing should be set at 10deg at idle. Set it back and see if it doesn't solve some of your problems.
Regards, Robert.
Edit: Once you get the bugs worked out, THEN is the time to tinker around.
Second edit: You will have to disconnect the neg batt cable and leave it off for 10 min, so the pcm can forget all the bad habits you have taught it. Only then will you know if the timing change to 10deg has solved any problems.
Last edited by Robert at the Beach; Jul 16, 2003 at 09:39 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.