My turn signal problem...The right side works, the left side doesn't. If the left signal is selected, neither the indicator light on the dash, nor the exterior signal lights work. In addition, when the left signal is selected, the left brake light does not light when the brake is applied. (otherwise the brake light works as usual).

Thanks for any help...
The bulbs are good,
1970 F250 360 4x4

 

Your switch is bad

 

Classic turn signal switch problem. I've never done one on a bumpside, but my assumption is that if you pull the steering wheel, the switch will be the first thing you see. The wiring probably will run down the steering column and connect down somewhere near the fuse box and brake pedal. Changing these out is really not too bad a task to do on your own, so it's really just a matter of trying to find a new one to fit.

 

Thanks for the info. I've been searching around the forums and am a little confused about the difference between replacing the cam and/or the switch. Before the blinker stopped working all together it would not turn itself off after I made a turn so to me that sounds like the cam is at least part of the problem. What is the "t/s switch" itself?

 

The "t/s switch" is the turn signal switch. Which is what you need. The cam kit will solve the non-cancelling part of your problem but not the lamp part. I suggest you order part numbers DOTZ13341B and C2OZ13A821A from DC.( www.dennis-carpenter.com). T/s switch and horn brush respectively. Once you get them use the old switch's wires to pull the new switch's wires down the column. I've posted before explaining this. Use the search engine top o' this page to find that or PM me when you are ready. I'll explain it to ya then.

 

I've posted this same info over 100 times on FTE .. as this was the Ford techs EZ way of replacing T/S switches.

 

Ha! True story Bill. That's who told me the little secret also. Billions of years ago. (AKA, back in the good ol' days)

 

When I worked the back counter at Walker-Buerge Ford in the mid 1970's, the electrical tech was a whiz-bang, could replace T/S switches in 15 minutes or less using the "cut, string and tape" method.

No one told me how, I asked him one day how the hell he was able to replace these switches so fast. He said, come out and watch...so I did.

 

Kinda the same thing. When I worked the back counter at Earnhardt Ford late 79,early 1980ish I asked one of the mechanics if there was any secret to it. Especially with the wires being separate. I was going to swap one out for a friend I think it was. That's when he told me how. Done it a few times since then. "Cut,string,and tape" method is a perfect name for it.

 

thanks a lot everyone, I'll be ordering parts tomorrow

 

for those coming after me,

and for those searching the part numbers, at some point the 0's got switched to O's, here ya go

D0TZ13341B and C20Z13A821A

 

In the early 1983 my T/S crapped out not canceling out..
I went to the loco ford dealer here in SJ ca. I looked this unit over and that wiring plug these all plug into. hmm

I size it up and thought wow that would be a real Bxtch to get those back into the steering tube. So, I tape a thin wire to the end as, I pulled the old one out & pulled the new one into place. What a relief that was that the tape did not pull loose... But when you really give it some thought it's the only way to do it with out some supper do ford tool if they even made one for it.

Maybe it just comes to me since working on vehicle about 80% of my life.


Orich

 

The 2nd digit of the part numbers prefix denotes the year, the 3rd digit denotes a specific model.

O = 1962/71 Fairlane - 1968/76 Torino - 1977/79 LTD II

LTD II was the idiotic name that FoMoCo replaced Torino with. It caused major problems when some body shops/garages ordered parts, because they thought the cars were LTD's.

Be aware if searching for part numbers: If the 2nd digit is a zero, it can also be typed as the letter O.

Most partsguys pronounce the zero as OH, so the prefix gets entered into online search websites as the letter O.

But someone that works for Carpenter made a major mistake, changed the O in the 3rd digit to a zero, so there's C20Z & D20Z instead of C2OZ & D2OZ

When I search for obsolete parts with an 0 as the 2nd digit of the prefix, I type the part number both ways into PartsVoice.com - rearcounter.com & the D2D .. cuz one never knows how the prefix was entered.

 

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