clutch bleeding
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 73
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From: Illinois
clutch bleeding
This may come off dumb. I have been traditionally bleeding my clutch for about half an hour. Still no clutch pedal. I am still getting air out of the lines. Anybody know any quick ways to get around this. Maybe a vacuum pump?
More Turbo
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 597
Likes: 2
From: Prague Czech Republic
That is a pain, I tried last time like for an hour and then I ended up changing everything from diferent car. The official procedure is taking the slave out of car, fill it, let the line bleed until steady flow then while line running steady stream reconnect it. I know this is dumb, that is what manual says. Do you have a nipple where you would connect the vakuum pump. Mine does not have it, just tiny allen srew and hole in the slave. I would try pressurizing the reservoir, take the slave out and leave it hanging so the bleeding screw is up and try to bleed it. The lining is retarded on mine, goes all over the firewall, instead straight down. Good luck, this is so stupid design.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 597
Likes: 2
From: Prague Czech Republic
Honesly I tried for over an hour and luckily we had another master slave from another car, still filled, I just used that. This system sucks so bad. Are u sure the master rod extends all the way out so it can suck new fluid?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Ideal solution is a pre-assembled, pre-filled pre-bled complete system, plug and play. Unfortunately, it looks like there still isn't one available for this generation.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Thanks for the info. Guys. Imbgoing to try a few things tonight and see what works the best. I might rig up a vacuum pump with compressed air.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 691
Likes: 2
No problem bud.
Save yourself some time and some headache and just pump it from under the truck. It def helps to have someone watching up top to see the air bubbles and to make sure you dont press the rod too far, or else you'll get a face full of fluid when you push fluid out of the resevoir (ask me how I know lol).
I used a motorcraft cylinder and it had a small allen in the back that looks like a bleeder. From what I've read it is not a bleeder but used during manufacturing.
Factory shop manual says to just pump the clutch pedal (after allowing fluid to run out the hose then installing the hose into the cylinder) and the air will work out. BS. I pumped it about 1000 times and no go. Got under the truck, pumped it by hand like 6 times and BAM, good to go.
Save yourself some time and some headache and just pump it from under the truck. It def helps to have someone watching up top to see the air bubbles and to make sure you dont press the rod too far, or else you'll get a face full of fluid when you push fluid out of the resevoir (ask me how I know lol).
I used a motorcraft cylinder and it had a small allen in the back that looks like a bleeder. From what I've read it is not a bleeder but used during manufacturing.
Factory shop manual says to just pump the clutch pedal (after allowing fluid to run out the hose then installing the hose into the cylinder) and the air will work out. BS. I pumped it about 1000 times and no go. Got under the truck, pumped it by hand like 6 times and BAM, good to go.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
No problem bud.
Save yourself some time and some headache and just pump it from under the truck. It def helps to have someone watching up top to see the air bubbles and to make sure you dont press the rod too far, or else you'll get a face full of fluid when you push fluid out of the resevoir (ask me how I know lol).
I used a motorcraft cylinder and it had a small allen in the back that looks like a bleeder. From what I've read it is not a bleeder but used during manufacturing.
Factory shop manual says to just pump the clutch pedal (after allowing fluid to run out the hose then installing the hose into the cylinder) and the air will work out. BS. I pumped it about 1000 times and no go. Got under the truck, pumped it by hand like 6 times and BAM, good to go.
Save yourself some time and some headache and just pump it from under the truck. It def helps to have someone watching up top to see the air bubbles and to make sure you dont press the rod too far, or else you'll get a face full of fluid when you push fluid out of the resevoir (ask me how I know lol).
I used a motorcraft cylinder and it had a small allen in the back that looks like a bleeder. From what I've read it is not a bleeder but used during manufacturing.
Factory shop manual says to just pump the clutch pedal (after allowing fluid to run out the hose then installing the hose into the cylinder) and the air will work out. BS. I pumped it about 1000 times and no go. Got under the truck, pumped it by hand like 6 times and BAM, good to go.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Yep, I learned that last year myself, before that I used to do the pump at the slave trick, it was the only thing that would work, but even then it was a friggen nightmare. Here's my story for future reference:
Now, before yesterday's driving the clutch needed to be bled. After the usual pump pump pump, bleed bleed bleed, pump at the slave, bleed, bleed, bleed, with no results as usual I decided to try something new. I recalled awhile back reading at Oilburners Riotwarrior had posted the factory procedure for bleeding this system, a procedure that doesn't even use the bleeder screw. (Also linked in our FAQ)
So I go back to his post for a refresher and then:
[Summary of factory procedure with my notes/suggestions]
1) Remove the slave cylinder.
2) Holding the slave at an angle with the open port where the line goes upwards to allow air to escape fill the slave with brake fluid through this port. (Manual shows it just being poured in, lol, have patience, a bit at a time.) Move the slave around slightly to help air escape. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out the port reinstall the slave, but not the line yet. You will get squirted with fluid a bit as the piston compresses as the slave is pushed into place. **But allow the push rod to push the piston in as needed while installing! If you manually push it all the way in it will suck air back into the slave when the piston travels out to its rested position.**
3) The manual says to remove the MC cap and gravity bleed the MC and line before hooking it back up to the slave cylinder, but I took it a step further and submersed the end of the line in a jar of brake fluid and pumped the air out of the system. I could see the air pushing through.
I hooked the line back up and holy crap Batman, I had clutch on the first push of the pedal!
Remember, when all else fails, read the directions!
So I go back to his post for a refresher and then:
[Summary of factory procedure with my notes/suggestions]
1) Remove the slave cylinder.
2) Holding the slave at an angle with the open port where the line goes upwards to allow air to escape fill the slave with brake fluid through this port. (Manual shows it just being poured in, lol, have patience, a bit at a time.) Move the slave around slightly to help air escape. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out the port reinstall the slave, but not the line yet. You will get squirted with fluid a bit as the piston compresses as the slave is pushed into place. **But allow the push rod to push the piston in as needed while installing! If you manually push it all the way in it will suck air back into the slave when the piston travels out to its rested position.**
3) The manual says to remove the MC cap and gravity bleed the MC and line before hooking it back up to the slave cylinder, but I took it a step further and submersed the end of the line in a jar of brake fluid and pumped the air out of the system. I could see the air pushing through.
I hooked the line back up and holy crap Batman, I had clutch on the first push of the pedal!
Remember, when all else fails, read the directions!
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