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Another slide adventure!

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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:03 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mudfuel06
That was my plan for today in addition to a seal repair and wall replacement. I am going to my boat battery out and charge it and see if it will work then.

Not sure why my reply to this did not go through last night. Am on the road so connection is spotty.


I am not sure how you can be getting 13.5 voltage reading with a bad battery, although it does sound like you are dropping voltage. The real test is to read the voltage to and through the relays while running the slide. Static voltage can really be misleading as you can have perfectly good voltage until you hit the switch.


If you think you have a bad battery, load test it. Do not replace it simply because a different battery works. I think your light are dimming due to a bad ground, a failing fuse, or something in the circuit, just guessing at a distance.


Steve
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:55 AM
  #32  
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Steve, the voltage that I was reading through the relays was with the switch pushed, but it was when the slide wouldn't move. I've got a couple of grounds on the trailer I'll pull apart and clean to see if that maybe helps. I do need to load test the battery since I have seen a bad battery that tested fine until loaded. Why couldn't things just be simple? Thank you for all the ideas that you and others have thrown out, it's good to have a sounding board!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 08:10 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mudfuel06
Steve, the voltage that I was reading through the relays was with the switch pushed, but it was when the slide wouldn't move. I've got a couple of grounds on the trailer I'll pull apart and clean to see if that maybe helps. I do need to load test the battery since I have seen a bad battery that tested fine until loaded. Why couldn't things just be simple? Thank you for all the ideas that you and others have thrown out, it's good to have a sounding board!

connect a battery to the motor leads on the outbound side of the relays. If you can't run the motor doing that, the problem is after the relays, not before. will be on the road.


Steve
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
connect a battery to the motor leads on the outbound side of the relays. If you can't run the motor doing that, the problem is after the relays, not before. will be on the road.


Steve
OK, sorry for so many questions, just still trying to wrap my head around this. WHen I checked all of the wire nuts and connections inside the trailer near the relays, I bypassed the relays and used the main incoming power and ground lines from the trailer and the main lines going to the motor. The lights dimmed, but no movement. Is this the same as what you are talking about or should I drag a battery inside and test it that way?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 06:56 AM
  #35  
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OK, as a final (hopefully anyway) resolution. I drg a battery up in the trailer and tested the wires before and after the relays, we had ignition. I load tested the battery in the trailer and it failed badly. I charged up my boat battery, load tested it and dropped it in. I push the switch and the slide moved out--it was a beautiful thing! So, after all of this, I'm ready to go camping and Run DIsney. Thank you everyone for all the ideas and suggestions.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:59 AM
  #36  
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So all in all a bad battery seems to have been the issue all along.


enjoy the warmth of Disney.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 08:01 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mudfuel06
OK, as a final (hopefully anyway) resolution. I drg a battery up in the trailer and tested the wires before and after the relays, we had ignition. I load tested the battery in the trailer and it failed badly. I charged up my boat battery, load tested it and dropped it in. I push the switch and the slide moved out--it was a beautiful thing! So, after all of this, I'm ready to go camping and Run DIsney. Thank you everyone for all the ideas and suggestions.
Good job! I probably didn't articulate it very well, but that is what I was trying to say.

On older campers, the converter can not power the slide motor as the amp draw is too high. By checking the way you did in this last step, you isolated both sides of the system and ruled out everything except the battery.

Steve
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 08:42 AM
  #38  
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So... We should have started with the age-old trouble shooting question::

IS IT PLUGGED IN?

LOL... Glad you found the problem.. It is odd how the problem existed when you were on shore power as well since some trailers have a pretty strong 12v power supply from the inverter system. Well, my trailer does at any rate..
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #39  
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ANCIENT ELECTRONIC WISDOM: Study the power supply first
(Myagi say)
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 08:35 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
So... We should have started with the age-old trouble shooting question::

IS IT PLUGGED IN?

LOL... Glad you found the problem.. It is odd how the problem existed when you were on shore power as well since some trailers have a pretty strong 12v power supply from the inverter system. Well, my trailer does at any rate..
I wish it would have been as simple as plugging it in!! Yeah, my convertor is probably weak, but it still works so I'm too cheap to buy another one especially since I just replaced a motor that I didn't need to. Otherwise, the camper performed great for the camping trip without any hiccups, just wish I could say the same for my body.
 
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