engine tuning questions
engine tuning questions
I added the banks sidewinder kit to my non turbo 7.3 idi. So I increased the fuel as described in the banks instructions. My egts max at about 850-900 degrees with no black smoke no matter how hard I'm working it. I'm wondering if I might have it a little on the lean side? The other thing I'm wondering about is should I adjust the injector timing to optimize my gains? I'm assuming the timing for a na engine and turbo engine should be different. What timing are you guys running (just want a ball park figure)? I want the truck on the safe side, so don't want to do anything that might damage the engine. Thanks in advance.
i did not change timing after installing my banks non waste gated turbo.
what i did was turned up the fuel until i got a slight smoke haze at full throttle under a load. this gave me a 900 or so degree temp under full throttle load, unless i was pulling 20,000 + lbs uphill. then it would spike around 1100 degrees.
what i did was turned up the fuel until i got a slight smoke haze at full throttle under a load. this gave me a 900 or so degree temp under full throttle load, unless i was pulling 20,000 + lbs uphill. then it would spike around 1100 degrees.
Timing wise, if you've got a way to measure it(so you can accurately return to where you were later if needed), experiment. Advance it a couple of degrees and see how the engine feels. If it makes less power, retard it. Chances are that, unless you have a nearly-new IP, you'll find that the optimum spot for cruising power isn't the same as the optimum for low-end torque, due to the IP timing piston having worn. So you will basically find a setting that works for you, and call it good.
Note that these engines are pretty robust; if you advance it too much you'll just end up with lots of clatter, hard to start, and no power. You won't hurt anything, however. Too retarded is similar -- white smoke, sounds like a gasser, no power and hard to start.
I'm convinced at this point that the 'optimum' timing point varies -- it will depend on how your IP has worn, the fuel cetane value, your height above sea level etc.
I just recommend taking the 'nominal' setting and advancing it a bit and seeing how the change feels. You'll quickly zero in on what 'feels' good power-wise, which should also be good efficiency wise.
As far as turning up the IP, the only thing you need to worry about is EGTs and black smoke. Unlike a gasser, the IP only injects enough fuel based on the throttle position and RPM, so even with the IP maxed out, you can control the smoke/EGTs with your foot. What the previous poster recommended -- turn it up till you get a light hase and call it good -- is pretty good advice. You don't want to smoke much black, because black smoke = wasted fuel, but if you have no haze, you've got extra oxygen to burn.
That being said, with a turbo the fuel setting becomes more complicated, in that what's a light hase at 3000RPM and 10PSI of boost will be lots of black smoke at 1600RPM and 4PSI of boost. So you can either learn to keep your foot out of the pedal at low RPMs, get a 'smoke puff limiter'/aneroid which controls the limit based on boost pressure(Hypermax sells this), or turn it down far enough that you won't smoke much at 1600... but you'll lose top-end power at that point.
Note that these engines are pretty robust; if you advance it too much you'll just end up with lots of clatter, hard to start, and no power. You won't hurt anything, however. Too retarded is similar -- white smoke, sounds like a gasser, no power and hard to start.
I'm convinced at this point that the 'optimum' timing point varies -- it will depend on how your IP has worn, the fuel cetane value, your height above sea level etc.
I just recommend taking the 'nominal' setting and advancing it a bit and seeing how the change feels. You'll quickly zero in on what 'feels' good power-wise, which should also be good efficiency wise.
As far as turning up the IP, the only thing you need to worry about is EGTs and black smoke. Unlike a gasser, the IP only injects enough fuel based on the throttle position and RPM, so even with the IP maxed out, you can control the smoke/EGTs with your foot. What the previous poster recommended -- turn it up till you get a light hase and call it good -- is pretty good advice. You don't want to smoke much black, because black smoke = wasted fuel, but if you have no haze, you've got extra oxygen to burn.
That being said, with a turbo the fuel setting becomes more complicated, in that what's a light hase at 3000RPM and 10PSI of boost will be lots of black smoke at 1600RPM and 4PSI of boost. So you can either learn to keep your foot out of the pedal at low RPMs, get a 'smoke puff limiter'/aneroid which controls the limit based on boost pressure(Hypermax sells this), or turn it down far enough that you won't smoke much at 1600... but you'll lose top-end power at that point.
I believe the stock timing was 7.5-8.5* BTDC using a pulse timing tool. If you can I recommend checking your timing, since messing with the fuel screw also changes your timing.
Your EGTs and Boost will go up the more load you put on the engine. Without head studs it is usually recommended to keep the boost below about 14psi. With head studs you can go further.
More fuels many time will increase boost and EGT's. Identify how you plan on using the truck. If you set it for max EGT's/boost with WOT but no load and then hook up a trailer your EGTs/boost could get too high.
Watching how much you smoke under load and at different throttle positions can be a guide as well (as stated above).
Your EGTs and Boost will go up the more load you put on the engine. Without head studs it is usually recommended to keep the boost below about 14psi. With head studs you can go further.
More fuels many time will increase boost and EGT's. Identify how you plan on using the truck. If you set it for max EGT's/boost with WOT but no load and then hook up a trailer your EGTs/boost could get too high.
Watching how much you smoke under load and at different throttle positions can be a guide as well (as stated above).
Oh, one other thing: I'm of the firm belief that if you want to run your engine right to the limit, you need a /digital/ EGT gauge -- Having used both, with a digital gauge, you can control the EGTs with your right foot and keep it right at your safe limit of 1000/1050 or whatever number you want; with the analog type, it takes so long to respond to any changes you make that it may be 30s before you know how far you backed it off; versus knowing within a second or two.
It just makes it easier to stay within the 'safe' range when you have your pump turned up to a point where the EGTs will go past your safe limit at WOT after a while.
(Really, even with things maxed out, you're only going to be creeping up in the EGTs during hill climbing/hill climbing with a trailer. Just accelerating won't take enough time for things to get hot)
It just makes it easier to stay within the 'safe' range when you have your pump turned up to a point where the EGTs will go past your safe limit at WOT after a while.
(Really, even with things maxed out, you're only going to be creeping up in the EGTs during hill climbing/hill climbing with a trailer. Just accelerating won't take enough time for things to get hot)
I was pulling our 24ft cattle trailer with 5500lbs of cattle on board. I figure total trailor weight was 10-12000 lbs. on a long hill climb the egts were approximately 900 degrees. That is why I thought I might need to turn the fuel up a little more. But I would also like to check/adjust the timing to get the most out of this thing safely. when this truck is running it is pulling. Even with the turbo she struggles.
Trending Topics
You also might consider a boost gauge. That is a good indicator of overfueling as well as EGT/smoke level. If you aren't building more than 6-7 psi you may need to either adjust the wastegate on the turbo or turn up the fuel.
I've got an ATS kit on my truck and can see 1000+ degrees at 11psi (my wastegate setting) just accelerating empty. Of course, by then, I may or may not be slightly exceeding the speed limit......

I've got an ATS kit on my truck and can see 1000+ degrees at 11psi (my wastegate setting) just accelerating empty. Of course, by then, I may or may not be slightly exceeding the speed limit......


I was pulling our 24ft cattle trailer with 5500lbs of cattle on board. I figure total trailor weight was 10-12000 lbs. on a long hill climb the egts were approximately 900 degrees. That is why I thought I might need to turn the fuel up a little more. But I would also like to check/adjust the timing to get the most out of this thing safely. when this truck is running it is pulling. Even with the turbo she struggles.
If you were hitting 900* EGT pulling a hill with a loaded trailer and you were not blowing much black smoke I would say it is a sign you need more fuel. I would turn the pump up another flat and go for another drive.
As far as engine safety, as long as your EGTs stay below the 1100* mark and your boost stays below 14psi you should be fine.
You also might consider a boost gauge. That is a good indicator of overfueling as well as EGT/smoke level. If you aren't building more than 6-7 psi you may need to either adjust the wastegate on the turbo or turn up the fuel.
I've got an ATS kit on my truck and can see 1000+ degrees at 11psi (my wastegate setting) just accelerating empty. Of course, by then, I may or may not be slightly exceeding the speed limit......


I've got an ATS kit on my truck and can see 1000+ degrees at 11psi (my wastegate setting) just accelerating empty. Of course, by then, I may or may not be slightly exceeding the speed limit......


I'm hearing the same but I've heard to low and you can blow the engine. I want it to be safe if I lower it. Can't afford another engine.
Given your info I would say set the timing in the 6-7* btdc and turn your fuel up. 900* egt under heavy load is low. That combined with no smoke means you need more fuel.
Running "lean" on an IDI is not the same as a gasser. It just cuts your power.
Turn up your fuel and set your timing. Watch your boost, egt and smoke. Acouple more pounds of boost wont hurt you.
Forgot to ask. Where is your pyro located?
Running "lean" on an IDI is not the same as a gasser. It just cuts your power.
Turn up your fuel and set your timing. Watch your boost, egt and smoke. Acouple more pounds of boost wont hurt you.
Forgot to ask. Where is your pyro located?



