Hey All.


Long time no post for me! Hope everyone is doing well.




So my waterpump took a dump. And I mean dump. It pours out fast. got 195k miles out of it though. Not bad from what I hear. Local parts store here in HI says $117 for the OEM replacement.


I read through a couple threads (gooch's) and watched the pump replacement video as well.


My truck is the E99 so I am aware that I need to follow this:


*Tip* Due to International's compatibility tests, all pre-2/2/99 build engines (pre-SN 940614) should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA). Most conventional coolants will be green, "low-silicate" and meet ASTM D4985. There are too many brands to list. They will require the addition of a supplemental coolant additive (SCA) at initial fill and maintenance of that SCA thereafter. Most pre-charged conventional coolants will be pink, purple, or blue and meet ASTM D6210. These coolants do not require an initial dose of SCA, but will require SCA maintenance thereafter. These are coolants like Peak Fleet Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty, Zerex Precharge, Shell Diesel Ready, Fleetguard Fleetcool, Fleetrite Fully Formulated, and so on.


I'll check if what I bought complies.


Due to my work load, I probably wont have time to do the swap myself. My neighbor likes to tinker and so I'll probably just buy all the parts and tools and have him do it while I'm at work.


I want to make sure to set him up for success and not have him running back and forth to the parts store.


Other than renting the right tools for the job, are there any other tricks/tips/tools that I should be aware of?

Good practice to replace the fan clutch while I'm in there?

Thanks.


Bryce


P.S. Random side note --> Looking for a 38r if anyone is selling.

 

Other than a Fan Clutch Wrench (I just tap the bolt with an air chisel) there is really nothing else required.

Often, Clutch's out last the vehicle. So, I wouldn't change that unless it's needed.

I would change the Thermostat. A thin bead of silicone used around the housing will prevent a leak after install. Many here use the 203* IH

Use only an ethylene glycol-based coolant, preferably low silicate. Add two bottles of SCA, DCA 4 from Ford. About $9 ea. at initial change.

Rather than flush with Distilled Water, consider buying an RV Filter which filters / eliminates the ore's and chlorine - Read label to ensure you're getting the right one. Just screws on the Garden Hose.

I would give strong consideration to purchasing a Coolant Filter System. These seem to extend the life of the water pumps and keep the system free from contaminates like sand which is inherent to heat forged Engine Blocks.

That's about it.

Here are suggested antifreeze/Coolants recommended by several:

•Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze
•Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
•Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
•Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
•Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with demineralized water)
•Zerex Heavy Duty Precharged Formula
•Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
•Prestone Heavy Duty (black bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant with SCA
•Fleetguard Complete EG--precharged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4

 

Apparently you can utilize some sort of ELC that meets CAT EC-1 ratings and not have to monitor/add the coolant additive. I have not done this as of yet, but replacing the leaky water pump is one of my winter projects and I plan to go with an ELC product. I plan to use Rotella ELC when I swap out my OEM water pump for the modified International w/ filter.

Check out the header for this document.
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...US)_TDS_v1.pdf

 

I've never seen the rental 'Ford fan clutch wrench set' fit any Ford I have ever owned, so if you rent tools counting on that, be sure that one of the included wrenches in the wrench set actually fits the fan clutch.

 

When I did mine the clutch fan wrench set at autozone worked and fit like a champ.

 

You can use ELC on some 7.3 Engines. In the later 99.5 Model year, IH replaced various seals which would not deteriorate using ELC's. However, IH states to use the coolant that the vehicle was delivered with to be certain.

Ford later approved the HOAT in 7.3's with IH Serial Numbers SN 940614 and up. Using it in previous engines can lead to premature failure of Seals, Gaskets, Cups, Injector O-Rings and such.

 

Subscribed for future reference.

 

Bryce it sounds like you have done your homework and have covered everything that needs to be addressed. I'm like you as far as having a E99 and stuck with old school green. You might also want to flush with Motorcraft VC9. So you get the old block cleaned out real good. I have found that as far as keeping SCA's correct that Motorcraft VC8 works best for me. I have used other brands and my SCa's were all over the place.

 

I also went with the Dieselsite pump with filter.
http://www.dieselsite.com/1996-2003f...terpump-1.aspx

 

Paul that is a very nice set up and complete with everything you need. I like it! It is way better than hanging a after thought of a filter set up on your truck. But to each their own. But my question for you is did you change out the oring for the filter shut off valve? I read somewhere that oring can be an issue. Is that true or not? I also notice that Bob now also sells a upper hose to match the lower. Not only is the upper hose is designed to go around the belt but it is molded for the billet thermostat housing. Did you get the upper hose to? How did that lower hose fit? Hopefully I can save up and get that set up before the pump actually goes out.

 

I am actually in the middle of the install. I already had the Around the Belt Hose so I'm reuseing it. I have not heard of any issues with the shut off valve. I had the pump sitting here for someday, then my fan belt went bad. I replaced the belt along with the tensioner assembly and idler pulley. After starting the truck, antifreeze started dripping from the water pump so, someday became today.

 

For those not familiar with these pumps, some e99 and later were equipped with a one piece pump, the lower radiator hose extension being cast in. These aren't available any more I don't think. Make sure you by the two piece with extension to replace them. Later replacement pumps don't always come with the extension. This is usually why you see a difference in price when shopping around.

 

Thanks for the help all.

Dug into this yesterday afternoon and got it all finished up as the sun was setting. Everything went pretty smooth and I just took my time to thoroughly clean everything that I took out as well as the mess that was left on everything near my pump.

One thing worries me though.

Everything runs quiet at idle but I hear squealing when I'm on the throttle. It sounds like it could be the pump. It only does it when I am hitting the skinny pedal. As soon as I let off its quiet.

I don't understand why this would happen. I am sure everything went in perfectly.

Could it just be a faulty pump?
Do some new pumps squeal a bit until they are getting broken in?
I suppose it could just be the belt only squealing at a higher idle? I didn't replace the belt since the nearest auto parts store didn't have it yesterday

I bought the re manufactured MasterPro water pump with a 1 yr warranty since it was $117 as opposed to the OEM replacement with lifetime warranty that was closer to $180.

I'm really hoping I don't have to tear it all apart again.

Also, no leaking happening anywhere.

Please advise. I'm going to call Oreillys and ask for an extension on the clutch fan tool rental.

 

Just called the nearest Napa from work.

They have the heavy duty serpentine belt in stock.

Typically its $75 but with my company discount, its $47.

Regular one would be much cheaper but they'd have to get it from the warehouse and I want to just go pick one up at lunch.

Anybody have issues with the heavier duty serpentine belts?

If no, I'll grab it.

 

If the water pump install is fresh the belt will squeal until all the residue cleanes itself off.
For 47 bucks I would get it just to have a spare or what I do is put new one on and save old for spare.

Edit: if it is not a Ford OEM belt the possibility of it squealing in the future is more of a possibility.