trouble codes / check engine light
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 66
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From: Westland, MI
trouble codes / check engine light
(short version): What are these codes - 332, 412, 313, 632 ????
During highway driving, my check engine light comes on for a few minutes, then off for a few then back on...etc. So I ran the code according to the service manual and here are my findings:
engine off test: 111 - 111 - 1 - 3 3 2 3 3 2
engine on test: 4(V8) 4 1 2 - 3 1 3 - 6 3 2 - 4 1 2 - 3 1 3 - 6 3 2
By the way the truck is a 1990 f150 4x4 351w (with a supercharger on it)
So, from what I can tell, "111" means everything is fine. 332, 412, 313, 632 I dont know what they mean. I think I am reading the 332 correctly, but I suppose it could be 33, 23, 32?? Could someone please tell me what they mean?
Thanks in advance
Jeff
During highway driving, my check engine light comes on for a few minutes, then off for a few then back on...etc. So I ran the code according to the service manual and here are my findings:
engine off test: 111 - 111 - 1 - 3 3 2 3 3 2
engine on test: 4(V8) 4 1 2 - 3 1 3 - 6 3 2 - 4 1 2 - 3 1 3 - 6 3 2
By the way the truck is a 1990 f150 4x4 351w (with a supercharger on it)
So, from what I can tell, "111" means everything is fine. 332, 412, 313, 632 I dont know what they mean. I think I am reading the 332 correctly, but I suppose it could be 33, 23, 32?? Could someone please tell me what they mean?
Thanks in advance
Jeff
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Westland, MI
trouble codes / check engine light
Thanks, thats a good link.
Any other confirmation as to how to read the codes? They seem to make sense in 3-digit form, but that was just a guess. Is it normal for the tests to repeat the code as it did? (see first post)
looking at that site, none of my codes look like any emergency. But having the check engine light on highway driving still bothers me.
Any other confirmation as to how to read the codes? They seem to make sense in 3-digit form, but that was just a guess. Is it normal for the tests to repeat the code as it did? (see first post)
looking at that site, none of my codes look like any emergency. But having the check engine light on highway driving still bothers me.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 407
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From: New England
trouble codes / check engine light
I think your code reader is correct. 332 is low flow at the EGR. A lot of people seem to have this problem. Check the vacuum line to the EGR valve. At idle it should show no vacuum. As you increase the RPMs the vacuum should go up. Mine went to 7". I am not sure of what it is supposed to be. If there is no vacuum at higher RPMs, trace your vacuum lines, paying close attention to cracks and/or breaks. As far as the other codes:
412: Cannot control RPM during KOER self-test high RPM check.
313: Secondary air injection system not bypassed during KOER self-test.
632: Transmission Control Switch circuit did not change states during KOER self-test.
I can't help you with these others, but this is what they are.
412: Cannot control RPM during KOER self-test high RPM check.
313: Secondary air injection system not bypassed during KOER self-test.
632: Transmission Control Switch circuit did not change states during KOER self-test.
I can't help you with these others, but this is what they are.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 66
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From: Westland, MI
trouble codes / check engine light
412: Cannot control RPM during KOER self-test high RPM check.
313: Secondary air injection system not bypassed during KOER self-test.
632: Transmission Control Switch circuit did not change states during KOER self-test.
Can anyone elaborate on these? Especially about the secondary air injection... what is that?
Thanks a lot so far
313: Secondary air injection system not bypassed during KOER self-test.
632: Transmission Control Switch circuit did not change states during KOER self-test.
Can anyone elaborate on these? Especially about the secondary air injection... what is that?
Thanks a lot so far
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 1
From: Rural Florida Panhandle
trouble codes / check engine light
The 313 sounds like that little electric/vacuum switch which controls the vacuum to the vacuum solenoid which opens/closes the air to the pipes which feed into the heads at the back. Or possibly it could be the check valve itself. I have had to replace both parts on separate vehicles. This could also affect the first code, which has to to with the EGR valve.
The way it works: Engine vacuum is supplied to the electric operated vacuum switch (some vehicles have two of them mounted side-by-side). An electrical signal opens the valve, which ports vacuum to the vacuum operated valve in the air-bypass system (smog pump). Again some vehicles have two of these, one to pump air into the heads, and the other to pump air into the converter. The electric-operated valve is probably just stuck. Unfortunately, you will have to break some plastic to open it up to clean it, then glue or otherwise repair it. Of course you could buy a new one.
Winford
The way it works: Engine vacuum is supplied to the electric operated vacuum switch (some vehicles have two of them mounted side-by-side). An electrical signal opens the valve, which ports vacuum to the vacuum operated valve in the air-bypass system (smog pump). Again some vehicles have two of these, one to pump air into the heads, and the other to pump air into the converter. The electric-operated valve is probably just stuck. Unfortunately, you will have to break some plastic to open it up to clean it, then glue or otherwise repair it. Of course you could buy a new one.
Winford
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Westland, MI
trouble codes / check engine light
Now I'm not completely familiar with this system, but could my lack of vacuum (aka supercharger) have anything to do with it? Should there be any other physical signs of a stuck valve? The truck seems to run fine, just gets the check engine lights.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 407
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From: New England
trouble codes / check engine light
Did you try to reset the computer? Maybe some of the codes are old. Unplug the battery for 5-10 minutes. Then restart the truck and check the codes. The secondary air injection is that crap that comes out of the back of the heads and connects to the smog pump which blows air into your cat convertor. Check to see if you still have this stuff. It will look like some heater hoses connected to the smog pump with some check valves (on the passenger side of the motor). The valves are vacuum advanced, so your leak may be there. I personally took all of this stuff off (and plugged the vacuum lines) and stored it safely in my garage, for future use in case they ever pass emissions in my state. You may want to check the local laws before removing yours. My 351 runs fine without it (actually better).
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