My brake fluid is extremely black. I'd like to drain and change it. I'm pretty sure that I've heard that bleeding the ABS control unit takes a special Ford tool (of course), but how hard is it to do if you have the tool. I've rebuilt brake systems and bled them with no problems on other cars with no ABS and have bled the calipers on ABS cars before, so I'm not new to the home mechanic field.

I haven't read the Haynes manual in a while (I'll check again tonight) but I think it said to go to the dealer for this work. I'd rather not, as my truck is used with 120k on it. If it is possible to do the work myself, even if I have to buy a special tool, I'd rather do the labor. Any comments? Where can I get the tool?

Thanks,
Jim

 

«2000 Ranger Table of Contents»
«Group 2: Chassis»
«Section 206-00: BRAKE SYSTEM — GENERAL INFORMATION»
«GENERAL PROCEDURES»


Bleeding — System


Manual

WARNING:
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately.

CAUTION:
Do not allow the brake master cylinder reservoir to run dry during the bleeding operation. Keep the brake master cylinder reservoir filled with the specified brake fluid. Never reuse the brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system.

CAUTION:
Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

Note:
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air can get into the system and cause spongy brake pedal action. This requires bleeding of the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment.

µ 1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap (2162) and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) with the specified brake fluid.

µ 2. Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

3. Have an assistant pump, and then hold firm pressure on, the brake pedal (2455).

4. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While an assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.

l Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

l Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

µ 5. Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.

6. Repeat Steps 2, 3, 4, and 5 for the LH rear bleeder screw.

µ 7. Place a box end wrench on the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

8. Have an assistant pump, and then hold firm pressure on, the brake pedal.

9. Loosen the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While an assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

l Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

l Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

µ 10. Tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.

11. Repeat Steps 7, 8, 9, and 10 for the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

 

Jim,

I'm not sure how you would go about removing all the old fluid and replacing it with new. I think your methodology is going to be important.

According to Haynes, you can bleed the 4WABS in the "conventional manner" (what Ken has posted) as long as you don't get any air into the master cylinder (MC) and/or hydraulic control unit (HCU).

That seems to be consistent with what I have heard from some brake-repair people, which is that the special Ford dealer tool you mentioned allows for the ABS system to be cycled on and off which causes (1) all the old fluid to be completely discharged from these units and (2) any air trapped in the MC or HCU to get pushed out as part of the ABS cycling and bleeding. Apparantly, without that ABS cycling, air/old fluid can stay trapped in those units.

HTH

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I really need to change the fluid, mainly because it is quite black, not the color of healthy brake fluid. Any idea how much the tool to cycle the system is or where I can get it? I don't see it as feasible to drain the system to clean the old stuff out without getting air into the HCU and MC.

-Jim

 

I don't think the "special service" Ford tool(s) are something you can find off hand, and my guess is that they would run you some big $$:

(1) New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 418-F048 (007-00500) or Equivalent;

(2) NGS Flash Cable 418-F120 (007-00531) or Equivalent.

Just a thought, but you might try calling one of your local brake shops and telling them that Ford wants big $$ for the fluid change because of the 4WABS and special service tools involved. Ask the brake shop(s) if they have to tools to do it and see what they say, maybe even get a price if they are equpped to handle it, at least maybe get some other opinions on the finer points of replacing the Ford 4WABS brake fluid (assuming they know something about it).

 

Couldn't you just do what Ken00 post said till you get clean brake fluid? It might take some time but if you dont let the
master cylinder go dry I think it would work. Just a thought.

 

I guess I could, but will that clean out the fluid in the HCU as well, or will that still be dirty fluid? Also, I was going to take the time with no fluid in it to clean up the calipers and paint them.

 

I think it would clean the dirty fluid out of any place that the fluid would go through.If you take the calipers off, you will need to bleed them anyway.

 

Nothing is easy...

So I stopped in at my local Brake shop, where I usually take my rotors to be turned when I do brake jobs. I asked the guy how he would do it if I asked him to drain, flush, and bleed my system. So he gets out his book and shows me that for a '98 (-'
01) there isn't a special procedure beyond just sucking the dirty fluid out of the resevoir, refilling, and bleeding as mentioned above (farthest from MC to closest). So I had all the tools/parts I needed to do it this afternoon so I gave it a shot. Used a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid (worked like a charm), put 2 containers of Motorcraft DOT 3 in my power bleeder, attactched it to the MC, got the right rear wheel off, pressurized the power bleeder, then tried to open the bleed screw. Well, this is where it started going south. The bleeder screw is jammed in there good. The wrench turned but I was just wrecking the head. I tried with some vice grips but I didn't want to do more damage. So I soaked the thing with more WD-40 and I'm letting it sit while I go try the rear left. This one came out much easier. Unfortunately, the bleeder must be clogged because when I back it out a little, fluid drips from around the threads, not out the center hole. So now I just put the wheel back on, refill the MC, and clean up cause it's getting dark. Then when I go to move the truck the ABS and Brake lights stayed on!! I figured out that this was due to me pushing a little too much on the float sensor in the MC with my Turkey Baster. I jiggled it with a screwdriver, it floated up and the lights went out.

Sorry for the long post. Any suggestions on replacing the bleeder screws? I'd rather not take a shower in DOT 3 Brake Fluid all over my hands if I can avoid it. If I leave the cap on the MC, will it slow down the flow enough for me to swap them out, assuming I can get the right side one out?

Thanks,
Jim