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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1989 5.0 O2 sensor issue...

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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
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1989 5.0 O2 sensor issue...

I have a 1989 F150 4x4 Custom that I just got running (I bought it not running...the previouse owner over-heated the thing beyond the point of no return, and the engine met an ugly death). I put in a low milage good running 5.0 out an 87 Mustang GT that a friend had (it got t-boned by a truck).
Of course, I had to do the usual conversion of stuff (intake, oil pan, etc.) and all of that turned out just fine. The extra step that I took was to remove all of the EGR (smog pump and all that connects to it, catylitic converters, etc.) because I live in an area where that is not an issue for inspection.

Here's my problem. I want remove my O2 sensor. I put in duel exhaust from header to rear, so there's no longer any place for it to screw in, but if I disconnect it, the check engine light comes on.

How do I by-pass it?
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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Don't bypass it weld in a bung and install it in the pipe, easy to do or pay few bucks to have it done.

It needs it it'll run better with it than it will without it.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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Danr1 is speaking the Gospel!

Only other step back is to strip all the EFI and go carb.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 09:08 AM
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You can't bypass the O2 sensor it is the only feedback the computer gets on fueling, take it to somebody with a welder and have a bung installed in the passenger side pipe near the motor for it and plug it in.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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Yeah...I still have the old exhaust with the cross-over tube with the bung. I'm a welder. I can just take my plasma cutter and remove the tube with the bung, weld a plug on one end, cut an opening on the pipe behind the header, and weld the other end of the 3" tube with the bung over it. Just too bad I can't remove all of the "crap"...oh well...
 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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Just go to a muffler shop and buy an new bung, drill a hole in the passenger side pipe near the exhaust mani or in the header collector and weld it in. This isn't crap it's an integral part of the EFI system.
Now the smog(air pump) system is a bunch of crap and can be completely removed without affecting engine operation, this system makes up most of the plumbing mess on and around the engine in these trucks, and since the stock cats are gone this system serves no purpose what so ever.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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Thanks for all of the advise offered. I've decided to follow it, and I've installed the bung on the pipe just behind the manifold. Everything works fine and the check engine light stays off.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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Does anybody have a pic of the smog pump on the a 351? Also does it have an inlet hole/vacuum line to the engine that would need to be plugged?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by choate
Does anybody have a pic of the smog pump on the a 351? Also does it have an inlet hole/vacuum line to the engine that would need to be plugged?
I guess this should really be a new thread, but since you asked...


I don't know if any of these photos are what you are looking for, but here are some that I took at the request of another forum member: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14768687
I've been reading various posts on removing the air pump, but have not yet fully completed it on my truck. Here is what I have learned, maybe right, maybe wrong.

There are two vacuum lines which go to the TAD and TAB solenoids which can be removed. The lines need to be capped off at the solenoids and the solenoids need to be kept in place so as to not throw codes. The air line which goes to the back of the engine tees and goes into each bank. This whole assembly can be removed, but the holes in the back of the engine then to be plugged. I recall somebody posting the size of bolt which is needed for this, but can't recall the size. I'll need to search and find it. Also, I know that there has been at least one post that lists the belt sized needed now that the air pump is gone.
 

Last edited by Island Time; Nov 2, 2014 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Add hijacked comment
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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I don't know a lot...I mean, I was here asking questions about my 5.0...but I do know this. I had a Windsor in my old E250. I ultimatly ended up parting the old thing out. On the rear of the heads is one place where the "plumbing" hooks up for that stuff.

I also had the same thing on my 5.0. What I did was thread and plug the holes with a bolt with a thin coat of sealer on the threads.

If your Windsor has EFI there will also be vacuum lines that hook up to the intake right on the top of the plentum. You'll need to plug those. Odds are, there will also be one on the EFI throttle body.

If you're staring at the front of your engine, the air pump will be on the lower left circuit of your serpintine belt. It's ok to get rid of that, but you'll have to measure with a piece of strong cord for the length of your new belt, because Ford won't have a part number for one without the smog pump. My local parts guy knew a good trick for that. You might want to seek out one in your neighborhood.

When it come to the O2 sensor, look back on this same thread for the rest of the advise you'll need.
 
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