Rebuilder Question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 197
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From: Kansas
Rebuilder Question
I'm getting ready to put my 7.3 back together and was wondering what others have done in regards to the main cap bolts. I thought of installing stud bolts but I've heard if you're going to use studs that you should have the mains line bored. I also thought about just getting new bolts but can find a supplier other than going to Ford and paying through the nose. Or option C, reusing the old cap bolts. I've re-used cap bolts before in gas burners and never had an issue but I'm not sure if it would be good practice for a diesel. Everything I've read never mentioned anything about not reusing the main cap bolts, just not reusing the rod cap bolts. Any thoughts out there?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
It is possible that it would need main bore line honing. One would need to simply install them, torque to specs, and check them. I have used studs on other applications that didn't require line honing. But, I also had an instance when I was installing a crankshaft in a stock block FE series engine with the OEM main cap bolts and it bound up; requiring it to be line honed. My answer would be "whatever you choose, check the alignment of the block saddles/caps".
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 17
The safest and best bet is to install, torque to spec, then verify with a dial bore gauge as Roland said. Having said that, I wouldn't expect them to be affected by changing the fastener but I've seen some weird stuff on a variety of motors. I have a suspicion that if swapping to studs results in a change in tolerance, you'd probably see them out of spec with normal hardware as well.
As far as reusing the hardware, we never reuse them ever but we also build 800+ gas burners such as the 1096hp N/A LS we just finished.
Since you've done a few rebuilds on gassers you know this, but a friendly reminder need hurts - be sure to mark the orientation and location of the main caps
Had a guy here building his project and he forgot to mark them in a fit of insanity. Spent the next three days redoing the line hone and cutting main caps after someone bumped his box of parts and they dumped out and got mixed up entirely.
As far as reusing the hardware, we never reuse them ever but we also build 800+ gas burners such as the 1096hp N/A LS we just finished.
Since you've done a few rebuilds on gassers you know this, but a friendly reminder need hurts - be sure to mark the orientation and location of the main caps
Had a guy here building his project and he forgot to mark them in a fit of insanity. Spent the next three days redoing the line hone and cutting main caps after someone bumped his box of parts and they dumped out and got mixed up entirely.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,206
Likes: 3
From: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
Oh that sucks Matt, As long as there not torque to yield bolts there should be no problem, how many miles were on her before the rebuild? How did the main bearings look? any funny wear patterns? How did the thrust bearing look? There the indicators of weather you line hone or leave her alone. If your just freshen the lower end up than you should be fine and not put to much thought into it, like Matt said your not building 1000HP sled puller are ya?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 197
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From: Kansas
Thanks for the reply guys. The mains looked real good for a little over 250k rod journals looked good too except for the one that spun. Fact everything looked real good inside except that one rod. So I am putting in a different crank. It measures within spec's for standard but I'll plastgage it to check.
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