Locking Nuts, Nylock and Torflex
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Locking Nuts, Nylock and Torflex
I have used nylock nuts on many projects over the years and have often wondered how many times they can be used and reused. From what I can gather, the prevailing wisdom is that you can reuse them as many times as you want until such time as they lose their ability to hold their torque. I have never gotten too technical with the measure of torque on these nuts, does anybody have anything to add to the topic?
While at the fastener store I did look at some other nuts that were called torflex nuts. I have seen them used as OEM fasteners on exhaust systems but I didn't know that they were readily available in various sizes. Anyone use these nuts? Good, bad, indifferent?
While at the fastener store I did look at some other nuts that were called torflex nuts. I have seen them used as OEM fasteners on exhaust systems but I didn't know that they were readily available in various sizes. Anyone use these nuts? Good, bad, indifferent?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
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From: Santa Clarita
Never heard of Torflex nuts? I did a search on google and it didn't come either. Personally, I use the nylock nuts. As far as reusing them? I don't. I guess you can reuse them but why? They are cheap enough to where I just replace them with a new nut and not have to worry about it. There is a guy at the Long Beach Auto Swap meet that sell them by the pound.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Do you mean Flex-Lock nuts? Torflex is a trailer axle. http://www.spstech.com/web/user_cont...cat_sp1040.pdf
I had a class in college that included quite a section on fasteners, it's a fascinating subject IMO. Nothing simple about them. The performance of Nylocks or other vibration-resistant systems depends completely on the application. Nylocks are fine for most body fastening, not so much for drivetrain. As long as the nylon is biting into the threads, they will work as intended.
Split-washers turn out to be almost useless for "locking" anything with substantial vibration or load variation. Fine thread fasteners with a drop of LocTite is about as good as it gets.
I had a class in college that included quite a section on fasteners, it's a fascinating subject IMO. Nothing simple about them. The performance of Nylocks or other vibration-resistant systems depends completely on the application. Nylocks are fine for most body fastening, not so much for drivetrain. As long as the nylon is biting into the threads, they will work as intended.
Split-washers turn out to be almost useless for "locking" anything with substantial vibration or load variation. Fine thread fasteners with a drop of LocTite is about as good as it gets.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Waleska, GA
I think of NyLocks as being for light duty applications and not something I'd put on grade 8 or grade 5 applications. Maybe I'm totally wrong? So, please educate me. I reuse them all of the time.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
I've always been advised not to reuse nylocks more than twice. Nylocks are available in grade 5 and 8. You should use the same grade nuts on the same grade bolts.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Waleska, GA
Works for me. Thanks! Maybe my experiences just aren't heavy duty enough?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Valley Center, California
In my Engineering years I came across this product demo video and found it interesting. It's well beyond the scope of Charlie's inquiry but it covers all of the fastener locking strategies. (Nylok included) If you have 8 minutes to spare, this may surprise you.
For me, I'll use nyloks twice but don't use them under the hood with high temps.
For me, I'll use nyloks twice but don't use them under the hood with high temps.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,679
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
Interesting video, the only thing I don't agree with is the double nut test. To properly double nut the lower nut must be held after torquing and the up the upper nut torqued against the stationary lower. Just putting another nut on top does nothing except raise cost per fastener. IMHO
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Sweden (Fagersta)
I work for Atlas Copco Secoroc, we produces rock drilling tools. My collegues that design the drill rigs uses the above nord-lock washers on all places that is subjected to heavy vibrations. Pretty much the whole drill rig. For quality, they are not reused but can be. They are really great att keeping the bolts tightened.
Sorry Chuck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
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From: NM
It's an interesting video, obviously they have a dog in the fight so to speak. But notice the bolt/stud is coarse thread; you wouldn't spec a coarse thread anywhere vibration was a concern. If you look inside about any engine, where there is vibration or cyclic loads you'll find fine threads, usually without any locking means at all.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Not a problem Ernie, I started this discussion for the purpose of finding out more about fasteners and others experiences. As for the video, it's a good one...I have watched it many times down at Ababa Bolt while waiting on the counter guy. I am going to go back to Ababa and recheck that packaging on the "torflex" nuts, I may have gotten it wrong.
I got off on this topic because I am in the process of reassembling my TCI chassis for my 40 Ford coupe. This chassis has all the bells and whistles including chrome hardware and polished stainless a-arms, etc. I am replacing the steel nylocks with stainless, more for looks than function, but some of the nylocks are chrome plated and I see no need to replace them if they still have plenty of "bite" when they are tightened down.
I got off on this topic because I am in the process of reassembling my TCI chassis for my 40 Ford coupe. This chassis has all the bells and whistles including chrome hardware and polished stainless a-arms, etc. I am replacing the steel nylocks with stainless, more for looks than function, but some of the nylocks are chrome plated and I see no need to replace them if they still have plenty of "bite" when they are tightened down.