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I recently purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 (see my sig) and am working out bugs with the steering. I've been reading the helpful threads on the topic and will keep at it till it's right.
On another note, I've got some questions that hopefully some of you experts can assist with. . .
1. What is the best shop manual specific to this truck?
2. What is the best scangauge reader (less than 100 bucks if possible) I can get to read codes? (I have a windows 7 laptop)
3. Where is the port located to plug in the above?
4. (kinda embarrassing) The truck is 4 wheel drive, 6 speed manual. There is a 4 wheel drive shift lever on the floor. The front hubs have chrome caps so I assume manual locking hubs are not there like my old 59 ford used to have. There is no 4 wheel selector **** on the dash. However, the shop I took it to recently for some front end work said the vacuum hose harness is missing so "you'll need to engage it manually". I haven't tried to put it in 4 wheel drive yet but if some one could explain how to do so, I'd be very grateful.
Cheap scan gauge? That laptop is a lot of power, but you can download Torque Pro and get a good OBDII Bluetooth or WiFi adaptor. I'm partial to the OBDLink MX, it has worked well on everything I've tried.
If you want to try some Android Apps on Windows, you can download Blue Stacks (free).
You'll be tempted to get a $20 Bluetooth because they're all over the net, but they are Chinese knock-offs. The base chip that is not a rip-off costs more wholesale than the whole unit from across the pond.
If you step up and spend $370 (AutoEnginuity), you get a scan tool for your laptop (or netbook) that safely sends troubleshooting commands to the engine.
Shop manual: Ford Powertrain Control and Emission Diagnostics (PC/ED) is my weapon of choice for getting to know the engine and to troubleshoot it. As for the book on rebuilding... I don't turn big wrenches, so it's best to consult with others. I also have the wiring diagrams for my year of 7.3L... they changed radically in 2002.
Sounds like you have a manual transfer case which has a floor mounted shifter. Under your front wheels caps as previously mentioned should be manual locking hubs.
The ESOF systems were controlled by a dash switch and vaccuum pulses to lock the hubs. They often fail if not maintained.
Thanks for the info fellas.
Man do I feel ignorant - yes the caps pop off easily and gee-whiz, there they are!
What's with the shop telling me I have a missing vac hose kit for the 4 X 4? There's no **** on the dash so as far as I can tell it's just like my 'ol 59 - get out and lock-em in (the way I like it).
As for the scan tool - great info. Right now I'm dumping money into a new Readhead steering box in an attempt to make the beast stay in lanes without requiring both hands.
The shop I had work on the front-end is taking it back to the alignment shop to add a bit of caster. That and the (spendy but worth it) box should make it steer better than new - nearly everything else has been replaced.
Seems as though your getting it worked out. OASIS, The New Generation Star (NGS) (Actually Obsolete Now) and AutoEnginuity are by far the best Scan Tools. IMO, I like the AutoEnginuity as I can park my Toughbook Book right in front of me and monitor and record while driving the vehicle. And, I have added all the domestic and most foreign enhanced bundles as well. So, its pay as you go.
Another option in addition to the App Based ones Tugly mentioned is the ScanGauge II / X-Gauge. I have a couple which I have programmed for the 7.3 and 6.0 with preset's for monitoring the most common PID's for troubleshooting quickly (IPR/IPC/EOT/ECT/TFT/VDC, etc. Although they do not send commands to the PCM. They're about $175 - $225.
Just FYI. If you're going to purchase an all in one unit like OTC, Snap-On, or the like, Not all will work on our trucks. We have a Hybrid Type of OBD-II System. It is PWM.
Here is what I have learned over the years turning wrenches, if you want to screw around and get mediocre results get the cheap stuff. If you are serious and what to do it yourself and do it right, invest in the quality such as AutoEnginuity for your laptop. That goes for the manual as well, Ford tells all and the Chilton is the very basic.
If you have the 4X4 shifter on the floor, then vacuum hubs do not come into play and the place you took it does not understand Fords. I would lube the lockout hubs not knowing what the PO has done or not done. There is good info on here for a step by step or google it.
The front hubcaps should have holes in the centers to access the lockouts and the solids were for the rear. If you don't have the front open hole hubcaps check ebay. The caps came in Black or Chrome from Ford.
Look at the basic updates folks have done and get a bucket list together and organize how and what you want to do. You don't want to pull the fuel tank off to replace the rubber foot and then find out after your done there was other things to do when you had the tank out.
Don't worry about embarrassing we all didn't know something at one time or another. Given the proper maintenance and TLC these are about the best trucks you can own.
Sounds like solid advise from everyone - much appreciated.
I especially like the last part
Originally Posted by Kamstutz
Given the proper maintenance and TLC these are about the best trucks you can own.
Hopefully the Readhead box and caster adjustment make it FEEL like the best truck. I'll get the Ford manual and found the Autoenginuity "Ford Package" online for 350 - as soon as I can cough up the bucks.
It was hard for me to get the software but worth it. My son has a 03 7.3 and we went in for half so that helped.
The electrical manual can be accessed from somewhere on line but I'm not sure. The service manuals are Vol 1 & 2 F-250 - 550 and don't get the motorhome manuals. There is a 7.3 emission manual and I can't tell you what is in that one.
I just checked on ebay and they are very proud of them right now. I would think that you could put the manuals off for a while and use FTE until a deal rolls by. The folks on FTE are very gracious when help is needed.
I was able to get the Ford Shop Manual on disc from ebay. I bought the "condensed version" with just the mechanical portion (I think volumes 1 & 2) for about $20. I also bought the full version (with drawings and OBDII codes) for about $30. That was years ago. I used them a lot to start with but haven't used them in so long I don't remember where they are. To save a little bit to put back into the truck, I agree with Kamstutz. Folks around here are very helpful and can post a picture or diagram for you if you need it. There's already a lot floating around out there so keep an eye out for them when you're cruising the forums so you can save them for future use. Most of the write-ups you come across are very detailed in their description and a lot of them also have pictures that are better than drawings. I think my truck folder is the biggest one I've got on my computer.
Also, the OBDII port is under the dash. It's on the right side of the steering wheel. If you take your right hand off the steering wheel and drop it straight down along the dash, the port should be just under the dash. Mine does not have a cover (I bought my truck used so I don't know if it came with one) so it should be easy to see.
Congrats on the new purchase and welcome to the club!
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