When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If the gauges are changing when they shouldn't then you need a new, better ICVR.
Funny you mention changing, this morning when I was coming into work, I parked my truck and then asked myself, "how much gas do I have left". AS I WAS LOOKING AT THEM they were doing the wave, like litteraly back and forth. It is deffiently time for a new ICVR. How long did shipping take for that piece from the electronics website?
I may just pay a couple more $ and get one off ebay pre-made, let me know what you think.
That's a decent price, but unless you get one with the right terminals on it you will have to cut his off and solder new ones on. And that's basically the same work as buying the one I spec'd - but I don't remember the time it too to ship.
Having said that, his is set at 5.1 volts and I found that 5.4 volts is what made the several sets of gauges I tested read properly.
Having said that, his is set at 5.1 volts and I found that 5.4 volts is what made the several sets of gauges I tested read properly.
How exactly would I be able to set either that product or the other one to 5.4 volts if I do not have anything but a multi-meter?
Would I just hook it up to my battery when the truck is running and then set it to 5.4 volts? It looked like his also had the ability to adjust the voltage.
I have that item on my truck and it has worked well for ~3 years. Although I have had no problems, I suggest you purchase a spare relay [$4.95], since the pin configuration is different that what I can find locally.
The system works and the headlights are significantly brighter after the installation.
How exactly would I be able to set either that product or the other one to 5.4 volts if I do not have anything but a multi-meter?
Would I just hook it up to my battery when the truck is running and then set it to 5.4 volts? It looked like his also had the ability to adjust the voltage.
Ask the seller if he can set it to 5.4 volts for you.
The voltage regulator in my how-to has a screw and you set its voltage as you suggested - with a volt meter and screwdriver. And since the one you linked to has a screw you may be able to adjust it as well.
Yesterday, I had to take my dashboard apart to fix the defroster door that the hinges had broken off of. While I had the dash apart I decided to trace the wiring for the tach and clean up the grounds.
I traced the wiring, its all good, and cleaned up the ground from the dash to the cab.
I then preceded to re-solder the cold joints that were mentioned on the thread earlier on the tach motherboard and put the tach together and hooked it up to the instrument cluster and plugged it into the harness and started the truck, no tach.
So at this point I ask myself, alright well since I have this all apart I may just test the leads going to the tach from the PCB of the intrument cluster, So i pulled out my multimeter and tested the G on the tach, ground was good, Tested the 8, ground was good, Tested the C, got 6.5ish volts at idle and went up to 9-10v at high revs, so the feed from the coil is there, and then I tested the B, and got 14.5v.
SOOOO the wiring in my truck is good, everything is working, its the tach itself that is bad.
I guess rlester was right and the tach may very well be defective.
This being said, where can I find one for my truck at a decent price?
Thank you everyone for the help and troubleshooting along with me, i do appreciate it.
Yesterday, I had to take my dashboard apart to fix the defroster door that the hinges had broken off of. While I had the dash apart I decided to trace the wiring for the tach and clean up the grounds.
I traced the wiring, its all good, and cleaned up the ground from the dash to the cab.
I then preceded to re-solder the cold joints that were mentioned on the thread earlier on the tach motherboard and put the tach together and hooked it up to the instrument cluster and plugged it into the harness and started the truck, no tach.
So at this point I ask myself, alright well since I have this all apart I may just test the leads going to the tach from the PCB of the intrument cluster, So i pulled out my multimeter and tested the G on the tach, ground was good, Tested the 8, ground was good, Tested the C, got 6.5ish volts at idle and went up to 9-10v at high revs, so the feed from the coil is there, and then I tested the B, and got 14.5v.
SOOOO the wiring in my truck is good, everything is working, its the tach itself that is bad.
I guess rlester was right and the tach may very well be defective.
This being said, where can I find one for my truck at a decent price?
Thank you everyone for the help and troubleshooting along with me, i do appreciate it.
woohoo! I was lucky enough to find a NOS tachometer assembly on a website and only paid $88 bucks. I will let everyone know how it works out, should work no problem since it is the updated microchip version.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
