quick fix on leaky BW 1356 tcase
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Chassell USA
quick fix on leaky BW 1356 tcase
my t-case is shot on my 96 f-150, chain slips constantly in 4 wheel drive. but now its leakign in the tail shaft area really bad. i have to add a quart a week, the past month. i'm gonna be putting a new t case in but i have to get to the east coast to work to make the money, which is a 20 hour drive for me. and i don't want the thing melting down on me on the way either. at least until i make some money to put a new one in there.
how would i fix that leak without spending much money?
i'm leaving in 2 weeks and gotta get it fixed.
thanx
redtopper
how would i fix that leak without spending much money?
i'm leaving in 2 weeks and gotta get it fixed.
thanx
redtopper
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: OAK CREEK USA
quick fix on leaky BW 1356 tcase
I have a 1996 f150 4x4 ext cab.
2 months ago I replaced the rear seal on the borg warner 1356 electric shift transfer case (150000 miles).
The seal was $20 at the ford dealer.
First I painted a line on the rear u-joint and the rear differential so I could re-install the drive shaft in the same location.
I removed the 4 bolts on the driveshaft plate. Use a 12 point 12mm socket.
Then slide the drive shaft out. (the front end is splined)
Remove the rubber seal with a screw driver by prying it out and pulling it out with a pliers.
Install the new seal using a 1-1/2 inch plastic pipe fitting ($2 at the hardware store). Tap the new seal in making sure that it is straight (not twisted in the bore). I tapped around the edge to get all the sides going in.
Re-install driveshaft, aligning the paint marks, and torquing the driveshaft plate bolts to the specified torque. I believe it is 100 ft. lbs.
You may want to check the U-joints as long as the driveshaft is out.
The driveshaft was lighter than I thought. I put it on my belly and slid out from under the truck.
Good luck,
Gene
2 months ago I replaced the rear seal on the borg warner 1356 electric shift transfer case (150000 miles).
The seal was $20 at the ford dealer.
First I painted a line on the rear u-joint and the rear differential so I could re-install the drive shaft in the same location.
I removed the 4 bolts on the driveshaft plate. Use a 12 point 12mm socket.
Then slide the drive shaft out. (the front end is splined)
Remove the rubber seal with a screw driver by prying it out and pulling it out with a pliers.
Install the new seal using a 1-1/2 inch plastic pipe fitting ($2 at the hardware store). Tap the new seal in making sure that it is straight (not twisted in the bore). I tapped around the edge to get all the sides going in.
Re-install driveshaft, aligning the paint marks, and torquing the driveshaft plate bolts to the specified torque. I believe it is 100 ft. lbs.
You may want to check the U-joints as long as the driveshaft is out.
The driveshaft was lighter than I thought. I put it on my belly and slid out from under the truck.
Good luck,
Gene
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