Sagging springs?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
My truck doesn't so much sag, but seems like it could use a little rake angle, maybe the springs are getting a bit weak in back. Almost seems like driving it, it bounces back a bit, but settles back after setting a while? It just looks too "level", hauls heavy loads fine though.
What's a good way to accomplish this - new spring packs all around sounds a little pricey, maybe not. Maybe up to $500 to spend incl. labor would be OK. Do not want to mess with 50 year old rusted bolts too much myself. Re-arch? Add another spring or maybe air bags? Adjustable shocks?
What's a good way to accomplish this - new spring packs all around sounds a little pricey, maybe not. Maybe up to $500 to spend incl. labor would be OK. Do not want to mess with 50 year old rusted bolts too much myself. Re-arch? Add another spring or maybe air bags? Adjustable shocks?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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You're definitely sagging as demonstrated by the fact that your helper springs are already bottoming out on the stop bracket. That's why you can load 'er up and not sag any further. One most simple (to help very little) remedy is to replace the rubber pads on the vertical stops. You'd only have to remove a couple bolts. In any case, I would start soaking all those suspension bolts in some sort of penetrating lubricant for an extended time and repeatedly. Even if you don't intend to work on it yourself, that will insure things go a little smoother with less muscle and breakage for whomever. Looks like you live near saltwater. I haven't had any experience with re-arched springs but I have heard that they may sag sooner than new ones. The cost differential of new leaf springs vs. rebuilt is probably minimal.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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ps. You probably only need to replace the main springs, not the helpers. I would not recommend trying to compensate for lack of suspension performance by adding air shocks or bags. Others may be able to comment on that subject.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I would start soaking all those suspension bolts in some sort of penetrating lubricant for an extended time and repeatedly. Even if you don't intend to work on it yourself, that will insure things go a little smoother with less muscle and breakage for whomever ... Looks like you live near saltwater ... The cost differential of new leaf springs vs. rebuilt is probably minimal.
Yeah, if a new lower spring pack would do 'er that would be good, but they are kinda pricey. And then, well what about the front springs, can't leave them out of the fun. More $$$.. Like to do things right though. No air bags then. Would be pushing a kilobuck to do front and rear springs, plus labor, tax.
That's what winter road salt does after 50 years.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
Don't overlook aftermarket replacement springs. A couple of years ago, I replaced mine with a "custom" set made up to the truck's dimensions, from an outfit in Indiana.
Cost me $125 plus FEDEX ground shipping of about $30, and it set my truck back right. Included were the new U-bolts, hanger mounting bolts and nylon anti-squeak pads.
I used a sawzall and heat wrench too.
They are not exactly like the originals, but they sure do the job right.
Cost me $125 plus FEDEX ground shipping of about $30, and it set my truck back right. Included were the new U-bolts, hanger mounting bolts and nylon anti-squeak pads.
I used a sawzall and heat wrench too.
They are not exactly like the originals, but they sure do the job right.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
That sounds better, seeing around $400 to $450 a pair online with a quick check. Then there's shackles and bushings and other stuff to figure in, and shipping.
Have to talk to some of the local shops and see what's what. Buying parts elsewhere is problematic because of the way shops charge for parts, it's not really good to try and argue about padding charges on the front end.
Have to talk to some of the local shops and see what's what. Buying parts elsewhere is problematic because of the way shops charge for parts, it's not really good to try and argue about padding charges on the front end.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Talked to a good local shop that can do the work, the owner allowed that nobody around here makes up spring packs. Seems to be about $450 a pair, front and rear, shopping online.
Found a set of 4 leaf spring packs online from - front and rear, plus shocks for about $900, with "freight" shipping, however much that might be. About $450 for a rear set alone, plus shipping.
There's gotta be some other hardware involved regardless - shackles, bushings, U bolts, etc, but no idea exactly. Can't help but think, if the rear springs are junk the front can't be far behind? So a rough estimate might be $1300 for a full set installed all around, parts, labor, tax. Hm.
Found a set of 4 leaf spring packs online from - front and rear, plus shocks for about $900, with "freight" shipping, however much that might be. About $450 for a rear set alone, plus shipping.
There's gotta be some other hardware involved regardless - shackles, bushings, U bolts, etc, but no idea exactly. Can't help but think, if the rear springs are junk the front can't be far behind? So a rough estimate might be $1300 for a full set installed all around, parts, labor, tax. Hm.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Florida
A while back I posted a thread asking if anyone had the OEM ride height specs for these trucks (64) but never got any data back. Obviously somewhere along the line back in the day, there was an actual measured height between the frame and axle, and the frame and the gound, or wherever Ford took the measurement so you knew when springs needed replacement and also was part of the front end alignment. I have not found this data...however...on my F250 4x4, I got quotes all over the place to get new springs front and rear but the average was about $1000.00 all new, with new u-bolts, etc. I suppose these days thats not terrible considering iPhones cost $500..
Im posting to advise against re-arc work as you may spend less money, but thats because you will get less value. Re-arcs do not last....A good set of springs and shocks in all 4 corners makes a HUGE difference in drivability and is worth the expense. My 2 cents, good luck. PS - Start soaking all your bolts with PB Blaster and keep doing it routinely until you are ready to swap parts. It can't hurt....
Im posting to advise against re-arc work as you may spend less money, but thats because you will get less value. Re-arcs do not last....A good set of springs and shocks in all 4 corners makes a HUGE difference in drivability and is worth the expense. My 2 cents, good luck. PS - Start soaking all your bolts with PB Blaster and keep doing it routinely until you are ready to swap parts. It can't hurt....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
That'd be great. The shop is good and they don't object too much about working on fossils. If I can get the springs at a better price that's always good. Tough to justify spending this much, but I bet it would ride and handle better.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Originally Posted by "1964FORDTUF[/QUOTE
PS - Start soaking all your bolts with PB Blaster and keep doing it routinely until you are ready to swap parts. It can't hurt....
On that angle, will also need U bolts - what length?? Also, bushings and assorted hardware? Is there a "kit" for that stuff, good stuff? Or at least a list of "you want to replace this when you do that". Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Florida
On that angle, will also need U bolts - what length?? Also, bushings and assorted hardware? Is there a "kit" for that stuff, good stuff? Or at least a list of "you want to replace this when you do that". Thanks![/QUOTE]
What I did to get all my quotes etc. was gather the OEM part numbers for the springs, shackles, bushings, etc. If you are going back with OEM replacement parts, all the specs will be available. I am lucky in that I have a very long time spring maker nearby, so when I gave him the spring part numbers, he knew what was needed for u-bolts, etc. Check with ND if you don't have the parts manual. I don't think you would need more than the u-bolts and bushing bolts and nuts. Springs "should" come with new bushings.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: California
I haven't used this company personally, but I've heard good things, both in terms of price and quality:
John R. Spring Service, Inc. | Spring Manufacturer
~Steve
John R. Spring Service, Inc. | Spring Manufacturer
~Steve
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Thanks for the link! Btw, is the guy's name is "Spring" even?? Sorta like "Dr. Pain."
You do think they are less expensive than others, or better quality, OK. Anything would be better than what's on there now too.
You do think they are less expensive than others, or better quality, OK. Anything would be better than what's on there now too.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 291
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From: California
Vintage Thunderbird Club International ? View topic - Leaf Spring Prices and John R Spring
~Steve