I know this seems to be a simplistic issue, but I'm running into a bit of a problem with the carriage bolts used to hold the bed down on Buford.

I bought a new set from LMC, as mine all had to be cut off....30 years of rust will do wonders. Well, the square shank part of the bolt that's supposed to keep it from turning isn't big enough, and when tightened, it just spun in the hole. I went to a local nut and bolt house, and they said the only way to get the bigger square section was to go to a 5/8's bolt, but then there's a new problem. The bolt is so big in diameter, that it allows no shifting of the bed to position it properly.

I've looked on Dennis Carpenters site, and I can't see that they list them at all, and have been to the Ford dealership, and they just sort of laughed at me. They said, "we have a bolt kit that'll work on newer trucks".....to which I responded, "and how, exactly, does that help me?"

Finally, I went to another nut and bolt shop here, and they said that they could take the 5/8's bolt, and turn it down to 1/2, so it would have the bigger square shank, and the proper sized bolt. This, however, would cost around 10 bucks a bolt!

So, does anyone have any idea where I can get the properly sized Ford bed bolts for my 79 longbed? Any help is, as always, appreciated.

 

How big is the square shank and how long is the bolt?

 

The bolts that LMC sent are 1/2" by 4" long, and the square shank portion seems to be 1/2" as well.


What I need, it appears, is a 1/2" by 4" long carriage bolt, but the square shank portion should be 5/8" instead.....which smells to me like a Ford only item unless I have them made.

 

http://www.portlandbolt.com/products...FRM8awodtmOhQg

BOTP

Call Larry and ask for details on them

73-79 Bed to Frame Mount Kit - Styleside - 16pc $20.95






NPD,

012606 BOLT, Carriage Bed Strip
Use on bed strips with square holes.
F1-350 48-72 Plain, carriage style..................................... F-012606-1 0.60
F1-350 48-72 Chrome, carriages style............................... F-012606-2 0.99
F1-350 48-72 Stainless stee, carriage style....................... F-012606-3 0.99
F1-350 48-72 Polished stainless stee, carriage style......... F-012606-4 1.50




011631 MOUNTING KIT, Bed Wood To Frame
F100-350 73-79 6 1/2’ bed, zinc............................................ F-011631-8AK 54.95
F100-350 73-79 6 1/2’ bed, stainless steel............................ F-011631-8CK 63.95
F100-350 73-79 6 1/2’ bed, polished stainless steel.............. F-011631-K 69.95


012610 BOLT KIT, Bed Strip
F100-350 73-79 6 1/2’ bed, zinc............................................ F-012610-8A 56.95
F100-350 73-79 6 1/2’ bed, stainless steel............................ F-012610-8B 99.95

 

If its not a show truck you could just tack weld the heads to the bed and then tighten the bolts. Done that before.

 

Any time I've replaced the bed bolts I just used regular 1/2 carriage bolts, and then flats and locks on the bottom side

Edit: They will tighten down if you kill'em on with an impact

 

I was just going to suggest the same thing!

 

Mil1ion, as always, you da man! I'll give them a call today.

As for the other solution of welding, if it were Maynard, my daily driver pickup, I'd probably do that. Since it's Buford, though, I'd rather it be the right part. As those of you know that have been following my progress on him, he's kinda taken on a life of his own, and I've lost my mind accordingly. Every other nut, bolt, and screw that I've put back so far has either been grade 8 or stainless steel, so I'm going to try to stay consistent.

I do, however, appreciate the input from everybody...thanks again.

 

You could just lightly build up the square portion under the head with a bit of weld and grind to 5/8", that's only 1/16" on each side extra.

Or you could tack weld a strip of 1/16" steel about 1/8" wide along each side of the sqare. Cut 4 pieces, each about 9/16" long.

Or you could cut short squares from a piece of 5/8" thin wall square tubing (it's about 1/2" inside), 1/8" wide, and spot weld to the bolts under the heads, over the 1/2" square portion.

I use a lot of stainless steel too, but not in highly stressed areas. They'll sometimes gall up at the threads under high torque settings and break unexpectadly. Grade 8 ... or even 9s are good stuff, but way overkill in a lot of applications. Grade 5 is perfectly useable in many low stress or non critical areas. A shot of 2+2 gum cutter on a rag, wipe the bolt, and give it a shot of clear enamel or other coating when new will go a long way in preserving a shiney new look. A generous shot on the exposed threads of a plated bolt will help preserve the threads from rust.

The "clear coat" sold in small brush bottles works well too where overspray cannot be tollerated, I have used in on bare steel after cutting ... after smoothing and polishing without any other coating or plating and it works.

 

Well, I called that Portland place, and they said they couldn't help me...so, I ended up back at square one for a bit.

I finally came up with a solution, though. I went to a local nut and bolt house here, and had them grab a set of 5/8"x4 carriage bolts, and they're turning the shaft of the bolt down to 1/2" and rethreading. That way, I have the larger square section that will properly fit, and the proper sized shaft for the frame holes. Not the cheapest solution, but it'll be done cleanly and quickly.

 

I just purchased a used set of bed bolts and nuts about a month ago for a 1979 longbed from Mikes Truck Salvage. I believe he is a sponsor and they were about $22.00 for the set including shipping.

 

I'm having the same problem finding a bed bolt for my truck.

Does anyone know if there are stainless steel bed bolts for these beds?

Could stainless steel be milled down for this application?

Thanks

 

I think it'll be somewhat difficult to find the proper size carriage bolt in stainless. Even if you went the route of getting the 5/8" and having them turned down, you're looking at one spendy set of bolts. All in total, the 8 that are in my bed cost me just over $100, and they were grade 5. So, if you can even find stainless, you can add about a third or so onto that cost.

 

Darn! I wish I had seen this thread sooner. You could have bought the bolts and I would have done the machine work for free (maybe call it a trade for the information you gave me about Bufords exhaust system).