When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am a first time Ford Truck owner. I recently bought a 1983 F-250 with the 460 V8 (with 4bbl Holley) and what I believe to be a 3-speed automatic (I know it's an automatic). The truck's been sitting for the better part of a decade and as I sit here paying money and throwing parts at it to get it running I was wondering about EFI conversions.
I know various manufacturers make EFI conversions for popular engines, but I don't really know whether these 460s qualify. Has anybody done the conversion? Can it be done using popular aftermarket kits (I'm going to throw the name Edelbrock out there right now) or is this something that has to be done via custom, one-off craftsmanship and all of the cash. Is there anything else I should know while I have your attention?
This is also my first post here, so forgive me if I have in some way violated the posting etiquette of these forums. I'm now going to attempt to attach an image of the truck in question, just because I think it would be appropriate.
My father runs something called Holley Pro Jection (or some such) on the 302 in his old Bronco (1972 or so). It's a throttle-body injection, not sequential multiport (which would be a big deal to try and implement).
There are several aftermarket kits for fuel injection. But they are expensive ($2000 +/-). If you going to fuel injection, I think the aftermarket kits will be less trouble in the long run. http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...tion%20Systems
You would be better off (IMO) to spend your money on other improvements (like a better intake/carb and exhaust upgrades). If you really want to improve performance, aftermarket heads and a cam are next on the list.
You could go the route of swapping a late model EFI from a donor truck (but you need to swap heads too, since the EFI and Carb heads are different) but most folks are swapping from EFI to Carb since the factory stuff has enough problems of its own.
You would be better off (IMO) to spend your money on other improvements (like a better intake/carb and exhaust upgrades). If you really want to improve performance, aftermarket heads and a cam are next on the list.
You could go the route of swapping a late model EFI from a donor truck (but you need to swap heads too, since the EFI and Carb heads are different) but most folks are swapping from EFI to Carb since the factory stuff has enough problems of its own.
Thanks! I'm not looking to turn this into a tire-shredder (though that's exactly what's going to happen to the tires that are currently on it), I just want a dependable work truck that doesn't have any trouble starting after sitting at a wellsite for a week - regardless of the weather. I'm thinking of installing a Gearvendors OD unit, too - just to help curb a little bit of the 460's appetite. It's mostly highway driving out here in west Texas, so there's no need to have that big ol' engine spinning away and needlessly burning through my fuel budget.
Big picture goal: a work truck that runs well enough to give me second thoughts about it just being a work truck.
Those GearVendor ODs are nice.
For a cheap and dependable truck I would steer away from the EFI plan.
If you don't have Inspection to worry about, I would do a replacement (or rebuild) the carb (if there is an issue with it) and give it a good tune up.
A lot of people like to remove the emissions stuff since it can be hard for the average truck owner to diagnose, and after 30 years there's probably some it not working. See the "How To" section. But you can't just remove stuff and expect the truck to run good. it needs to be done right.
These are very dependable trucks.
You just need to find/replace any worn out parts.
Start with a Compression and Leak-Down test to get a good baseline on the condition of the engine.
Pop off the/a valve covers and see if everything is covered in sludge - or (hopefully) if last owner(s) did a job with regular oil changes.
I suppose I might as well give you guys (and gals) a quick run-down of what's happened so far:
I've already done a visual inspection of the engine and fluids. The oil was dirty and a bit low, but appeared to be in decent shape. The tranny fluid looked a bit pale to me. We didn't check the level properly because we made no attempt to warm the tranny. The brake fluid...was there. Not really sure what brake fluid is supposed to look like.
A quick rinse of the forward fuel tank and a pillaged battery led to a 1-2 minute warm-up. It ran pretty well for something that's been sitting for a decade. We made no attempt to move the vehicle.
The belts and hoses are in surprisingly good shape. They'll get replaced, but they're a little bit further down the list.
The oil was in ok shape. After the engine run it's been changed and there's a new filter on there. Our initial plan was to drop the oil pan for a more thorough inspection, but a surprising lack or clearance over the front suspension prohibited that. I plan on another oil and filter change in a few hundred miles.
There wasn't any coolant in the radiator, so that got filled. The temp needle didn't budge during the short engine run, but I can't yet tell whether the gauge is broken or it just didn't have enough time to heat up.
The brakes are soft. The pedal was frozen at the top of its travel initially, but during the warm-up the pedal broke through whatever it was caught on and freed up. The previous owner seemed to think the pedal was a bit soft, but since I have no reference I can't tell if that's normal. I was also pushing it pretty hard since I didn't want to run over my friend who was spraying starter fluid into the carb (the gear position indicator is broken).
The carb pissed fuel onto the intake manifold during the engine run. The gaskets between it and the manifold crumbled to the touch. My friend and I replaced them and attempted a carb rebuild while we had that off. We broke the choke heater tube and now the throttle plate doesn't really respond to throttle pedal inputs. FAIL. I'm giving my friend one more chance to adjust the carb before I suck it up and hand that job off to a professional.
I've purchased new fuel tanks (I have no idea how to get the peanut-butter thick sludge out of the bottom of them, and replacement tanks are slightly less hassle than having to constantly drop the old tanks and fix what the sludge has broken). The rear tank is being upgraded to a 38 gallon unit. Both tanks are getting new pumps/sending units and new filler necks to boot. New gas caps are also on their way (one is AWOL, the other a locking unit that doesn't quite work). I ordered new in-tank filters for those pumps. I have no idea whether the new sending units include them, and they're like $1 apiece so it's cheap insurance.
The biggest job has been replacing the steering column. The last time the truck ran was when someone took it for a joyride. They smashed the driver's side vent window and brutalized the original steering column to get it started. An attempt was made to replace parts on the original column, but I soon discovered that the ignition bezel is wicked hard to get a hold of, so I decided to just source a complete replacement column off eBay. A Bronco donated the column that's in there now. Side note: replacing the steering column was a royal pain-in-the-***.
Next on the list of things and parts to do is to get the truck its own battery, get that carb sorted out and then maybe, just maybe move the truck under its own power. The immediate goal is to move the truck ~4miles to my friend's house where there are tools, and beverages, and shade. My boss will be well-pleased to see it gone from his parking lot. After that, we can properly install all the new fuel tanks and accessories, replace the vent window, and put some mirrors on. And then maybe take it in and get a state inspection done.
So far, I'm in the hole for pretty much the entire fuel system aft of the cab.
Good plan to replace the tanks, although I would just use one. On the brakes, in my experience all will be well until you put the emergency brake on. That'll push the pistons past the point where the cylinder walls are badly rusted and shred the rubber seal. At that point serious leakage happens and the shoes are soaked, so now you are replacing cylinders and shoes.
As for the tranny, my experience is that there will be varnish in the governor from sitting so long such that it won't shift correctly. Changing the fluid is a must, but even that didn't fix one of the trucks I've pulled from a field, but a dose of Sea Foam's transmission tuneup did in about 500 miles. Oh yes, while you have the oil pan off the tranny be sure to add a drain plug kit. As you are pulling the pan you will understand. Also, don't forget that over half of the fluid is in the torque converter, so make sure you drain it as well.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
