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While doing some research on cylinder honing, I came across something that might help others when they need to replace injector cups. Maybe these brushes will help with the cleaning.
Nice find and thanks for posting up. I believe getting the bores for the cup clean is the key so these brushes will work nicely. Now to just figure which ones size wise to use for the cup bores. Reps to you brother !1
I get so much from this forum and from you guys posting your knowledge about these trucks that I'm finally glad to be able to maybe help others out there.
If I get a few spare minutes next week, I will try to give them a phone call and see what they say about a brush size for our trucks. Unless of course someone else does it before me and post an answer before I do.
ok, so I'm new here and have been reading alot on cup replacing. But I missed about cleaning the fuel and oil galleries. I "rebuilt " all eight injectors and replaced cups. The truck now constantly has fuel and oil smoke. Did I screw up the injector rebuild, or cup install?
Do you have any foreign fluids in the coolant? What torque did you use (with a torque wrench) to tighten the injector bolts. Did you hot-torque them? Did you take a ruler to the tops of the injectors to make sure they were all level with each other?
I used a Dremel with a wire wheel to prep all surfaces in the heads before gluing the cups in.
I used a gun cleaning kit to clean the fuel rails.
Diesel in coolant,and coolant in the fuel filter bowl started me down this path. Rookie mistake on not torquing the injectors. Just wondering if I should pull and tear down the injectors to re-clean,or just replace the cups or both. When I get a better keyboard I'll be able to give more info. thanks for the patients
Coolant in the fuel bowl is major bad juju. Supplying coolant to the injectors will destroy them right-quick, so sorry to say this - but your truck is down until this is resolved.
Order up another set of injector O-rings, pull all the injectors, and drain the coolant completely (I pull the block heater to drain the block). I use an air compressor with a rubber-tipped nozzle to puff up the degas bottle - with the cap on. I do this by removing that small degas bottle hose on the driver side and clamping the hose to something solid like a bolt or a cheap Bic pen. I then set my compressor to low pressure and allow the the cap to vent if I exceed 14 PSI.
While the pressure is in the degas bottle, I shoot a little silicone spray (harmless for the engine and cup sealant) into the cups and watch.
I would imagine that anytime injectors are changed, pressurizing the degas bottle and inspecting the cups for leakage is advised. If they are leaking, may as well drain the coolant and change them while everything is apart rather than install new injectors and chase problems...
Thanks guys for all the advice! So I found out that passenger bank is not producing much. what I mean is if I unplug each injector there is only a slight change even after installing new uvch. Driver side is running great. It wasn't having this problem before the injector rebuild or the cup replacing.
