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I have a 97 F-150 4.2l 5-speed that has a p0174. I finally died on me yesterday at a red light. Wouldn't restart. I let it sit about 40 minutes then it did restart. It was running very rough. It died again about 10 minutes later. I parked it and trailored it home.
Timeline---- Friday night - Truck running fine. Check Engine light ON - P0174
Saturday AM - Changed oil, air filter, cleaned MAF, checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. I noticed some mayo looking junk in oil cap and fill neck. Also loosing water from reservoir. Cleared codes. Drove around and P0174 came back 2 miles later. Cleaned with Seafoam and reset code. Drove 30 miles and no code. It passed TX Emission Inspection no problem. Pulled out of shop bay after new sticker and Check Engine light came back on.
Tuesday - This is the day it finally died and was running ROUGH. I changed the fuel filter and reset Check engine light. I started it back up and the truck idled normal, but if you gave it gas, it was very rough and shaking truck. Noticed some water in tailpipe. Added 4 gallons of water to system.
Sorry for long post, but you think its the intake manifold? The rebuilt motor has about 15,000 miles but is about 9 years old. Original fuel pump.
Chev2ford, I just rebuilt my motor and started it and am getting the same p0174. My truck will start but does not want to idle without help from me pushing the throttle pedal and it runs rough. I replaced my aluminum oem intake manifold with a dorman plastic....not certain if this is the cause. It's not leaking any where and I checked all of my fuel injectors, wires plugs and a new IAC but still have the problem. Still trouble shooting mine so we'll keep in touch and see if we can narrow it down. Some people r saying it's a vacuum leak but I can't find one and if it is that then why don't I get a p0171 as well which is for the passenger side bank 1? We'll see.
Read my other threads u will see my history.
The code says lean bank 2.
This is usually an air leak that is being missed.
If you were to look at the live data with a Scanner you will see the Long Term Fuel Trim table for bank 2 shifted more than 25% as verification the system has tried to correct for excess air by richening up the fuel injection.
At the same time you would look at bank 1 LTFT to see where it's at as it may be shifted but not enough to set the 171 code..
.
Do not address this code by working on other areas that have no bearing on the issue until after, so any other issue can be seen clearly and not cause confusion.
Good luck.
You need to start with the basics and find out where the coolant is going. Is the oil normal looking or is it milky? These 4.2s are known for intake gasket leaks allowing coolant to enter a cylinder which can cause a fouled plug or bent rod(that's how I got my truck for free BTW) Make sure its full of coolant, pressure test the system for about an hour, and then pull the oil drain plug. If the gaskets are leaking the coolant will sink below the oil and will run out first.
If the truck is not driven long enough each time to drive out the crankcase contaminates, some elements condense on the cooler fill neck and bottom of the cap and look like milky white cream.
If there is coolant in the oil that likely will also show up.
Good luck.
I dont have any coolant in the system, only water. At $12.99 a gallon of anitfreeze, water is cheaper now. As soon as the water leak/head gasket, or where ever else is fixed, then I'll put antifreeze in. Dont want to waste it.
I did pull the PCV valve out and tested it. I put my finger over the opening and I felt it closed and it was sucking my finger in. Removed my finger and it was spewing out hot air. Is that normal? I can't remember what my Chevy did.
Do you mean the opening in the valve cover? Are you sure you pulled out the PCV valve and not the fresh air inlet? The PCV valve is in the right vc at the back and the fresh air inlet is in the left vc at the front. If you plug both ports the crankcase should build pressure as its running due to normal blow-by. If the crankcase creates vacuum with both vc ports plugged then the intake gaskets are leaking internally.
I pulled what looks like the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover by firewall. There was quite a bit of pressure being sucked into the PCV. It was actually sucking the skin on my finger inside.
As of today I think my converter went belly up, drove it around the block and came back to my garage looked up under the drivers side at the converter and it was glowing red, passenger side is normal. This is the claking noise I've been hearing, I guess.
Also, drivers side only spark plugs (all four) are coated with a black soot, passenger side ok, so what ever is going on seems to be hit the drivers side.
I keep thinking my cam (on drivers side only) moved one tooth from the MARK but I don't see how, I have a video showing the marks and dots line up and I used a CRANK SHAFT holding tool to assemble the chains.
Still looking.
Last edited by z 97ford1; Oct 8, 2014 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: need more info
We pulled the lower intake off and found this. There is a break in the gasket beside 1 of the valves. Now the fun job to clean all that out. Also pulled all the spark plugs and only the 1 in the back had just a trace of this milky junk on it. Going to button her back up on Tuesday after the gaskets come in from Ford. There is quite a bit of this junk up in the upper intake as well as coming into the air duct on the inlet side of the throttle body. Question #1 - Should I put some transmission fluid in the oil and run it for a few minutes then change the oil and filter? Or just change the oil 3-4 times to clean it out?
Question #2 - Any idea what the difference is with the 2 different intake gasket kits from Ford? 1 states for models before 7/1997 and the other states 8/1997 - 1/1998. My motor is a rebuilt motor that was installed around 2004-2005. Only got around 20,000 miles or so. May buy both kits then take back the one I don't use.
I would be worried of main bearing damage with that much water in the oil. I would scoop as much out as I can then run a qt of kerosene with some 15w/40 oil for a couple of miles and change it until it runs out clean. Pull the valve covers and clean them out too.
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