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Oct 11, 2014 | 02:23 PM

#16

Rusty_S

Lead Driver

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 5,958

Likes: 105

From: Houston

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis

The truck came with a 1G, with about 60 - 65 amps total output at higher RPM. At 12 volts and a high beam of 60 watts you are looking at 5 amps/light. If you are running 6 of them you'd have 30 amps of draw in those lights, leaving about that much for everything else. If the heater or A/C is on full tilt that'll just about take it all when the other lights and the engine are taken into account. In other words, if everything works perfectly it should work, but when does everything work exactly right?

Guess I get to play around with some LED H4 bulbs for the four roll bar lights then. Or I might just say screw it and get the round LED bulbs I have seen that people use in place of sealed beams.

If this alternator ever goes out though, I will take it to Finch down here he can rebuild it and tweak the inside to put out closer to 100 Amps. Thing is though I dont think I will be here when the alternator goes out seeing as I will be moving around December or so.

~update~

Well I just checked and it looks like the KC Daylighters I was looking at going with, they are already a composite bulb design and they use a H3 bulb that only has a low beam rated at 100 watts. So for four of them I am looking at 400 Watts of lights unless I can find a LED H3 bulb that will provide the same flood light capability at a lower power consumption.

Oct 11, 2014 | 06:30 PM

#17

ArdWrknTrk

pedant

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 23,576

Likes: 40

From: EXTREME southwest CT

Rigid makes some nice LED auxiliary lights you could put on your roll bar.

You could junkyard swap a 130A 3G for around $70 or buy it all new for under $120.
Your dash won't dim and your charge indicator will always be happy.

Oct 11, 2014 | 07:22 PM

#18